With ARRL Field Day around the corner, it is the time of year where amateur radio operators far and wide wonder if they are going to be stuck having their QSOs wiped out every time their neighbor keys up the microphone. Interference between stations in a multi-transmitter field day operation can be the norm if you didn’t think to use band pass filters.

So out my stash of little gray metal boxes came, and I began checking their VSWRs for a down-‘n’-dirty pre-Field Day check-a-roo…

I don’t love the VSWR trace of this 6M filter, but it will probably suffice for Field Day, where I plan on setting up a 6M 4-element beam, and operating largely on FT8 to try to intercept the “Alpha” stations that are trying to rack up the “Free VHF station” points. That, and when else do I get to put up my 6M yagi???? FT8 is operated on 50.313 MHz which should have a VSWR under 1.2.

These Array Solutions elliptic filters have a beautiful looking VSWR. I really wish I had spent my ham bucks acquiring a full set of these. Apparently Array Solutions is not making them anymore, but a company called Hamation is? Oh, and for anyone not familiar with the RigExpert Antenna Analyzer (1-port VNA), the blue portion of the display indicates the ham band with frequency along the horizontal access and VSWR on the vertical access. Keep in mind that the VSWR we want is as close to 1 as possible!

Now 12M is a WARC band of course, meaning you cannot use it for contesting. In general, it is second only to 60M as my least used band. But, boy, that band pass filter looks great!

I expect 15M to be hopping on Field Day. I am glad this filter looks good.

Another WARC band, i.e. Field Day no-go… But a good looking filter!

Now 20M. Let’s just say I am not at all happy with this filter. Granted, it has probably been heavily abused over its several years now with me. Dunestar has gone out of business since August of 2023. Their original owner became a silent key right around the time that I purchased this set. I decided to try out Morgan Systems Surestop bandpass filters for 20M and 40M for this year’s Field Day. You’ll notice the 40M filter looks reasonable, but when actually under use, the VSWR seen at the transceiver is often high. And we can’t be without a highly functional 20M and 40M stations when it comes to Field Day operations. We will see how the Surestop filters behave…

The 30M filter looks superb! Of course, there is no operating 30M on Field Day.

The 40M filter looks a bit janky. Technically, it should function okay. But like I mentioned, this filter often creates a high SWR at the transceiver. I have a replacement here for it now.

Ugghh. The 80M filter is downright scary looking. I probably should have replaced it when I had a chance.

The top band filter isn’t great. What else can I say? I am not sure I ever even used this filter on 160M. I do think I will slowly start replacing my filters with one of the other manufacturers with time. Although I am grateful to have been able to get a set of Dunestar filters, especially since they provided a boatload of good multi-operator experiences over the years, the older and wiser me wishes I had put my money elsewhere.

Here are the “guts” of one of the Array Solutions 3rd order elliptic filters. Note the interesting use of a hot glue like substance to hold the windings in place, the beefy size of the enameled wire, and the use of ceramic capacitors. Silver-Mica capacitors are often recommended for use in band pass filters

…and a representative schematic from this excellent LC Filter Design calculator by Marki Microwave…

Now we can contrast the design and construction of the Array Solutions band pass filter with the 2nd order Dunestar bandpass filter (below). This design consists of two airwound coils and capacitors mirroring and shielded from each other on the input and output side.

Every time I get around to thinking about, testing, and opening up my band pass filters, I can’t help but think: It would be so much better to make these myself. For some reason, this does not seem to be an area that has been overly tackled by hams. In fact, there is really only one prevailing design by Lew Gordon K4VX, a 3rd order Butterworth filter, that is well-described and seems easy-ish to reproduce by the average everyday ham (i.e., one that does not design RF products for a living). The W3NQN band pass filter design article is a much more complex document to follow.

I have dabbled in making band pass filters before, but have found myself hindered by the testing process. I since learned to use the “low Z” setting of my oscilloscope. So, once I again, I found myself constructing an ugly little device, this time a low-power 160M version of K4VX’s Butterworth filter. The schematic, construction, and component values are all documented in the article. This is nothing more than a capacitor (~4000 pF) and inductor (~2.2 µH) connected in parallel on the left hand side as well as a capacitor (~4000 pF) and inductor (~2.2 µH) connected in parallel on the right hand side, with another capacitor (~400 pF) and inductor (22 µH) in series in the middle connecting the two sides. I just soldered everything together and attached it across VHF connectors.

And although the Marki Microwave design tool proposes different capacitor and inductor values for its version of the 160M 3rd order Butterworth band pass filter, you can still get an idea of what the schematic, and scatter plot parameters (insertion loss and return loss) of the filter should look like.

The first test I performed with the band pass filter was pass a sine wave through it from below the 160M band (which spans from 1.8 MHz to 2 MHz). I started with 500 kHz and passed the signal into my oscilloscope, making sure to turn on the low impedance (50 ohm) setting.

I did indeed have a fairly weak signal.

When I increased the signal generator frequency so that the waveform outputted was within the pass band of the filter (1.8 MHz), the oscilloscope showed a much larger voltage. Keep in mind that it is Channel 2 (“CH2”, the bottom box!), that you want to be looking at on the signal generator if you are following along with the pictures.

There is no change to the oscilloscope settings between the 1.8 MHz input (below) and the 500 kHz input (earlier). Clearly the voltage recovered at the 1.8 MHz setting is much larger.

Now to take a look at the NanoVNA results. The filter was simply placed between port 0 and port 1 of the NanoVNA. The vertical gray bar represents the frequency range of the 160M ham band. The filter I constructed did not use components of the exact values recommended in the K4VX article, thus the reason the filter performs at a lower frequency than expected.

Regardless, you can see below that the shape of the S11 (return loss) and S21 (insertion loss) parameters are very similar to that predicted by the Marki calculator. My filter is below:

And, again, the S11 and S21 parameters as predicted by the Marki calculator:

Well, there you have it. Band pass filter season! Field Day is almost here, and we are going to go with what we have. However, my mind has been spinning around the idea of constructing my own band pass filters so that I can more easily fix and replace the rather fragile devices as needed. And although this was a tiny little experiment, I think it shows that these band pass filter designs are indeed reproducible with accuracy. Will a KM1NDY band pass filter design show up here in the near future?! The Magic 8 Ball says “Reply Hazy. Try Again Later”!

Catchya on the flippity flip!

KM1NDY

Während in Teil 1 dieses Beitrages die konzeptionellen Vorüberlegungen und die Auswahl geeigneter Hardware behandelt wurden, geht es im zweiten und abschließenden Teil um die finale Umsetzung des Projektes Mikrofonumschalter sowie einen Ausblick künftiger Erweiterungen. Wer den ersten Teil des Beitrages noch nicht gelesen hat oder ihn noch einmal lesen möchte, findet ihn hier. Umsetzung … Funkamateur vs. Krakus: Der Mikrofonumschalter (Teil 2) weiterlesen

I’ve been wanting to tidy up the cabling to the 12v DC PSU for some time in the radio shack as like many HAMs I have a number of radios/devices that all need a 12v feed but, only two connectors on the front of the PSU. The net result was a birds nest of wires all connected to the PSU making it impossible to disconnect one device without others getting disconnected at the same time.

Looking online I found that many of the HAM outlets stores sell nice little 12v DC distribution boxes that would be ideal however, they’re all priced somewhat high for what they are so, I decided to purchase the parts and make one myself.

Searching on Amazon I found all the necessary parts for less than a quarter of the cost of commercially made units. A couple of days later the parts arrived and sat on my desk in the shack for a few weeks. Yesterday I finally found the time to make a start on the project.

After much drilling and filing I had the necessary holes/slots cut in the plastic box for the 4mm connectors and fuse holders and started wiring them up. Part way through my 30 year old soldering iron decided to die and so I had to stop and wait for a replacement to arrive.

With the new soldering iron in hand it only took 30mins or so to complete all the joints and I soon had the box together ready to test with my multimeter to ensure I didn’t have any shorts or crossed wires.

With testing complete and fuses in place I connected it up to the PSU and then connected all the devices one by one checking for voltage drops as I went.

I now have my CG3000 remote auto ATU, GPSDO, QO-100 ground station and IC-705 all nicely connected in a much tidier fashion than before, all for considerably less than the commercially available alternatives.

More soon …

Im folgenden Beitrag beschreiben wir, wie sich durch den Einsatz eines (mechanischen) Umschalters, mehrere Funkgeräte mit nur einem Stationsmikrofon verwenden lassen. Im ersten Teil des Beitrages geht es um die konzeptionellen Vorüberlegungen und die Auswahl geeigneter Hardware. Einführung Welcher Funkamateur kennt diese Luxusprobleme etwa nicht? Man möchte überall gleichzeitig QRV sein und es sammeln sich … Funkamateur vs. Krakus: Der Mikrofonumschalter (Teil 1) weiterlesen

Following on from the article I wrote about the performance of my multi band vertical antenna I’ve now put together a table showing it’s performance on each band as experienced over a period of 18 months.

It’s interesting to note the antenna wavelength measurements on each band as 13m (43FT) seems to be an almost perfect length for a simple multi band vertical HF antenna with excellent DX capabilities.

Looking at the information you can see that performance on the 160m band is poor. This is to be expected as the antenna is far too short for a band with such a long wavelength. I knew this would be the case from the outset and never planned to use this antenna on the 160m band. I’ve included the data here just for completeness. If you’re looking for a reasonable 160m band antenna that can fit into an average UK garden then take a look at my Inverted-L antenna article.

Performance on the 80m band is surprisingly good considering the antenna is only 1/6th of a wavelength long. With contacts into Indonesia achieved using relatively low power levels this antenna surprised me with its performance on the 80m band. A 1/4 wavelength antenna would of course perform better but, like all multi band vertical antennas for the HF bands there is always a compromise.

On the 60m band the antenna is pretty much a 1/4 wave vertical, it works great on this band and I’ve had a lot of fun chasing DX in the winter months. With the longest contact being into Brazil at 6144 miles this antenna performs extremely well for such a simple design.

On the 40m band performance is better still. With the antenna being just over a 1/4 wavelength long the point of max current is above ground level making this a very good DX antenna. With multiple contacts into Australia at distances over 10,000 miles this antenna is the ideal 40m band DX chaser for small gardens.

Moving up onto the 30m band this antenna now begins to really shine. Being a half wave long on 30m the point of max current is half way up the wire lowering the angle of radiation considerably. This results in excellent global coverage with contacts into Australia being a breeze. With the longest distance achieved being 11,776 miles into New Zealand this really is the goto antenna for fans of the 30m band with small gardens. This antenna easily out performs my 30m band Delta Loop design whilst giving better global coverage.

On the 20m band this antenna performs very well indeed. Considering it’s 3/5th of a wavelength long which is a strange length to have, it’s no slouch. Global coverage is excellent and working into Australia is relatively easy. I’ve yet to work into New Zealand on the 20m band using this antenna but, that’s mainly due to me not being on air at the right times. Best distance worked so far on this band is 10,656 miles.

On the 17m band the antenna is 3/4 wavelength long. This is a very useful length and easy to tune as it presents pretty much 50 ohm impedance at the feed point. Performance is simply stunning on 17m, if you can hear the DX you can work them. I am amazed at how well this antenna works on this band. It seems to have a low angle of max radiation making it excellent for chasing DX stations. Giving me my first contacts into Alaska and New Zealand this is my goto antenna for the 17m band.

On the 15m band this antenna is 7/8th of a wavelength long. Performance doesn’t feel as good as it does on 17m but, with the longest distance achieved being 8023 miles there’s really no reason to doubt it. With only 87 contacts being made on this band due to the fact that I always get trapped chasing DX on the 17m band and never make it any further up the bands, I’m sure this antenna will perform extremely well long term on 21Mhz. I just need to make more effort to get on this band.

The 12m band is one of the bands I didn’t expect this antenna to perform well on.
Being 1 and 1/8th wavelengths long it’s not a length that you would normally consider using for an antenna however, performance is excellent. This is most likely due to the point of max current being a fair way up the wire resulting in a low angle of maximum radiation. DXing is great fun with this antenna on the 12m band and it’s surprised me time and time again at how easily I’ve been able to work DX stations. With the best distance worked so far being into the Falkland Islands at 7973 miles, this antenna has huge potential on this band. Like the 15m band, I need to make an effort to spend more time on the 12m band and see how far I can push this antenna.

Finally we reach the dizzy heights of 28Mhz on the 10m band where the antenna is 1 and 1/4 wavelengths long. Again this is a useful length as it presents almost 50 ohm impedance at the feed point. DX performance on the 10m band is good. It’s probably very good however, like the 15m and 12m bands, I rarely make it up onto the 10m band and so I’ve not really given the antenna the time to prove itself at 28Mhz. My best distance worked so far on this band is 4872 Miles into the USA but, I’m sure I could easily do better if I committed more time to it.

I’ve pretty much covered all the good points of this simple multi band antenna so, now let’s look at the not so good points.

If you’re in the UK and are looking to work other UK stations then this antenna isn’t for you. Like all vertical antennas there isn’t much in the way of NVIS radiation and so you’ll find UK stations just won’t hear you. You’ll also often find you won’t hear UK stations at all due to the null at the top of the antenna that attenuates signals arriving from high/very high angles. For me this is fine as I wanted an antenna that was focused on DXing as much as possible.

From 10Mhz upwards the antenna also isn’t that good for working stations in nearby Europe. Most of the time you will only hear European stations that are more than 1000 – 1500 miles away, anything closer just doesn’t appear in the receiver. On the 15m and 12m bands often you will never hear European stations at all, only DX stations. This does of course reduce the QRM from UK/EU stations considerably making it easier to work those weak/QRP DX stations.

So as you can see, 13m (43FT) of vertical wire is probably one of the best lengths you can possibly use for a multi band vertical HF antenna especially if like me, you have a small garden to squeeze your antennas into. I don’t like to say it but, this could be the magical length we’re all looking for when making a multi band HF vertical antenna.

Tuning of the 13m (43FT) vertical antenna is achieved using my CG3000 remote auto ATU. I initially started off using my home-brew Pi-Network ATU but, changed over to the CG3000 so that in the winter months I don’t have to run out into the rain and wind to change bands. It’s important to note that the ATU must be at the base of the wire and not in the radio shack. It’s also important to note that I have 4 x 20m long radials connected to the CG3000 along with an earth spike at the base of the wire. This combination of ground and tuner works incredibly well with the ATU tuning on each band with ease in less than 3 seconds. I’ve also not had any issues with the CG3000 attempting to retune whilst in the middle of a QSO, once it’s initially tuned it doesn’t retune again until I either change band or make a large change in frequency.

The achieved SWR on all bands is <1.5:1 except for 160m where it is 1.8:1.

More soon …

Since I put together my Inverted-L antenna and Pi-Network ATU I’ve been having a lot of fun on the low bands.

Getting back onto 160m has been most enjoyable and I’ve now had over 100 ‘Top Band’ contacts with distances covered as far as 3453 Miles into Sosnovoborsk Asiatic Russia.

I must admit I am amazed at the distances achieved on the 160m band as the antenna isn’t very high above ground level when compared to a single wave length on 160m.

The Inverted-L antenna at the M0AWS QTH was designed purely around the size of the back garden. Using a couple of 10m Spiderpoles the vertical section of the antenna is 10m tall and the horizontal section is 28m long. Naturally the antenna resonates around 2.53Mhz but, can be tuned to resonate anywhere on any band using the Pi-Network ATU I built that is situated at the base of the vertical section of the antenna.

Looking at the far field plots for the antenna on each band we see that as we move higher in frequency the radiation pattern becomes more complex and the radiation angle gets lower, exactly what we would expect from such an antenna. The antenna runs pretty much North/South in the garden ( X axis on the diagram above) and so we would expect the antenna to radiate East/West (Y axis on the diagram above) however, this isn’t always the case.

(Click Far Field Plots for full screen view)

On 160m the antenna favours the South (-X Axis) and presents some usable high angle gain although, from using the antenna you would never know this to be the case as it seems to have pretty good all round coverage. With the best distance of 3453 Miles being covered to the East into Asiatic Russia the antenna performs well even though the far field plot is slightly biased to the South.

On the 80m band the Inverted-L antenna becomes a cloud warmer and exhibits very high angle radiation. On 80m the antenna is ideal for NVIS Inter-G propagation and is great for rag chewing with other UK/Near EU stations.

Looking at the far field plots for the 60m band once again the antenna provides lots of high angle gain however, there is also some very useable lower angle gain that has proven to be excellent for working long hauls into North America and east into Central Asia. On the 60m band during the day the antenna is excellent for Inter-G chatting, using just 20w-40w I can very easily chat with other UK HAMs even when the band is noisy.

Moving on up to the 40m band we find the far field plot starts to get a little more complex. Looking at the 3D plot you’d think that the antenna favoured the South (-X Axis) however, in reality it favours the NorthWest with both some high and low angle gain. This antenna has proven to be excellent for DXing into North America on 40m but, has also been great for DXing into South America getting great signal reports from stations in Panama at a distance of 5415 Miles. During the day NVIS propagation is excellent and I find I can chat with other UK and near EU stations with ease using just 25w.

Above is a screen shot from PSKReporter showing stations that have heard me on the 40m and 60m bands. As you can see, global coverage is excellent with stations as far as Australia and New Zealand hearing me on the 40m band and stations on the West Coast USA hearing me on the 60m band. I was also pleased to see I was heard in Africa on both bands, a region of the world I would like to get more contacts from.

On the 30m band the Inverted-L antenna starts to exhibit two lobes with gain to the NorthEast and NorthWest. This makes the antenna ideal for working into the USA and Australia/New Zealand over the North Pole. Working US stations is a breeze with relatively low power and I almost got a contact with New Zealand during the evening greyline but, unfortunately the DX station dropped out before I managed to get my signal report back to him. As time goes on I’m sure the antenna will more than prove itself on the 30m band.

So far I’ve not ventured above the 30m band with the Inverted-L antenna as I’ve really been enjoying access to Inter-G chats on 80m, 40m and 60m and chasing DX on 160m, 60m, 40m and 30m. I need to venture up onto the higher bands before the long winter nights settle in and the higher HF bands close for the winter season.

Looking at the far field plots on the higher HF bands the antenna has huge potential as it provides some nice low angle radiation in useful directions.

On the 20m band the far field plot starts to get much more complex with lobes at many different angles. The main gain lobe is to the NorthEast towards the USA and is at a fairly low angle and so this antenna should be great for working stateside on the 20m band. There are also lobes to the NorthEast and so hopefully working VK/ZL over the pole should also be possible. As I said above I’ve not yet used the antenna above the 30m band and so at this time cannot confirm performance but, it looks promising.

The 17m band also looks promising with a similar far field plot as the 20m band but, with lower angle of maximum radiation and more gain. It will be very interesting to test this antenna on 17m especially since the noise level is below S0 and I can very easily hear the weakest of stations on this band.

Once again the 15m band looks very similar to the 17m band, low angle radiation but, with a slightly more complex far field plot.

The 12m band far field plots continue the theme with the angle of maximum radiation slightly lower than on the 15m band and slightly more gain. This antenna should be great for chasing the DX on the very quiet 12m band.

Finally the 10m band is very similar to the 12m band in that the far field plots show low angle gain albeit with an even more complex radiation pattern.

I originally put this antenna up so that I could work Inter-G on the low bands but, it has proven to be a much more worthy antenna than I originally thought it would be. I need to spend more time with this antenna on the bands above 30m to really see how it performs on the higher HF bands but, so far I’m really pleased with it’s overall performance on all the bands tested to date.

I can highly recommend using FT8 to test new antennas. With PSKReporter and my own NodeRed World Map WSJT-X interface I can see realtime the antenna performance on each band. FT8 is an extremely useful tool when it comes to testing antennas to see if they perform as per the modelling and can often provide some performance surprises!

More soon …

I’ve had this antenna model for ages now but, never got round to putting it onto the website until Alex, GM5ALX was talking about making one the other day whilst chatting on the QO-100 satellite.

The 20m band delta loop follows exactly the same design principles as all the other delta loop designs I’ve already put on the website. They are designed such that they present a 50 ohm impedance at the feed point and thus have no requirement for complex impedance matching circuits/transformers.

The dimensions for the antenna are as follows:

Wire 1 – Horizontal exactly 1m above the ground for its entire 10.2m length.
Wires 2 & 3 are exactly 6.18m long each with the top being 4.5m above the ground.

The 3D far field plot shows a typical delta loop radiation pattern with the maximum radiation through the loop and a deep null in the centre.

The 2D elevation plot shows that the antenna will give a maximum gain of -0.79dBi at 30 degrees when used over average/poor soil types. If like me you use your Delta Loop antennas on the beach then the antenna will present considerably more gain as it will benefit from the salt water reflection.

If you want to lower the angle of maximum radiation and increase the gain over average ground just raise the antenna up so that the top is around 7m above ground. This will give a much lower angle of radiation and improve the gain figure by 2-3dBi. Don’t forget that if you raise the antenna the point of resonance will also rise in frequency and so you may need to shorten the wires a little to get the point of resonance back to where you want it.

The SWR plot shows that the antenna will have a fairly wide bandwidth and match to 50 ohm coax extremely well. The antenna is designed to be fed in one of the lower corners via a 1:1 balun for best results.

Summary:

Total Wire Length: 16.38m
Horizontal Wire Length: 10.2m @ 1m above ground
Diagonal Wire Lengths: 6.18m
Wire Dia: 2.5mm
Height at Centre: 4.5m
Feed Type: 1:1 Balun in bottom corner (Can use coax if necessary)
Impedance: 50 Ohm
SWR: <1.5:1 at resonance

Since setting up the new HAM station here in the UK the one band I’ve not yet got back onto is 160m, one of my most favourite bands in the HF spectrum and one that I was addicted to when I live in France (F5VKM).

Having such a small garden here in the UK there is no way I can get any type of guyed vertical for 160m erected and so I needed to come up with some sort of compromise antenna for the band.

Only being interested in the FT4/8 and CW sections of the 160m band I calculated that I could get an inverted-L antenna up that would be reasonably close to resonant. It would require some additional inductance to get the electrical length required and some impedance matching to provide a 50 Ohm impedance to the transceiver.

Measuring the garden I found I could get a 28m horizontal section in place and a 10m vertical section using one of my 10m spiderpoles. This would give me a total of 38m of wire that would get me fairly close to the quarter wave length.

For impedance matching I decided to make a Pi-Network ATU. I’ve made these in the past and found them to be excellent at matching a very wide range of impedances to 50 Ohm.

Since I still had the components of the Pi-Network ATU that I built when I lived in France I decided to reuse them as it saved a lot of work. The inductor was made from some copper tubing I had left over after doing all the plumbing in the house in France and so it got repurposed and formed into a very large inductor. The 2 x capacitors I also built many years ago and fortunately I’d kept locked away as they are very expensive to purchase today and a lot of work to make.

Getting the Inverted-L antenna up was easy enough and I soon had it connected to the Pi-Network ATU. I ran a few radials out around the garden to give it something to tune against and wound a 1:1 choke balun at the end of the coax run to stop any common mode currents that may have appeared on the coax braid.

Connecting my JNCRadio VNA I found that the Inverted-L was naturally resonant at 2.53Mhz, not too far off the 1.84Mhz that I needed. Adding a little extra inductance and capacitance via the ATU I soon had the antenna resonant where I wanted it at the bottom of the 160m band.

With the SWR being <1.5:1 across the CW and FT8 section of the band I was ready to get on 160m for the first time in a long.

Since it’s still summer in the UK I wasn’t expecting to find the band in very good shape but, was pleasantly surprised. Switching the radio on before full sunset I was hearing stations all around Europe with ease. In no time at all I was working stations and getting good reports using just 22w of FT8. FT8 is such a good mode for testing new antennas.

As the sky got darker the distance achieved got greater and over time I was able to work into Russia with the longest distance recorded being 2445 Miles, R9LE in Tyumen Asiatic Russia.

In no time at all I’d worked 32 stations taking my total 160m QSOs from 16 to 48. I can’t wait for the long, dark winter nights to see how well this antenna really performs.

The map above shows the locations of the stations worked on the first evening using the 160m Inverted-L antenna. As the year moves on and we slowly progress into winter it will be fun to start chasing the DX again on the 160m band..

UPDATE 6th October 2023.
Been using the antenna for some time now with over 100 contacts on 160m. Best 160m DX so far is RV0AR in Sosnovoborsk Asiatic Russia, 3453 Miles using just 22w. Pretty impressive for such a low antenna on Top Band.

More soon …

Many years ago I had an MFJ-259B antenna analyser that I used for all my HF antenna projects. It was a simple device with a couple of knobs, an LCD display and a meter but, it provided a great insight into the resonance of an antenna.

Today things have progressed somewhat and we now live in a world of Vector Network Analysers that not only display SWR but, can display a whole host of other information too.

Being an avid antenna builder I’ve wanted to buy an antenna analyser for some time but, now that I’m into the world of QO-100 satellite operations using frequencies at the dizzy heights of 2.4GHz I needed something more modern.

If you search online there are a multitude of Vector Network Analysers (VNAs) available from around the £50.00 mark right up to £1500 or more. Many of the VNAs you see on the likes of Amazon and Ebay come out of China and reading the reviews they aren’t particularly reliable or accurate.

After much research I settled on the JNCRadio VNA 3G, it gets really good reviews and is very sensibly priced. Putting a call into Gary at Martin Lynch and Sons (MLANDS) we had a long chat about various VNAs, the pros and cons of each model and the pricing structure. It was tempting to spend much more on a far more capable device however, my sensible head kicked in and decided many of the additional features on the more expensive models would never get used and so I went back to my original choice.

Gary and I also had a long chat about building a QO-100 ground station, using NodeRed to control it and how to align the dish antenna. The guys at MLANDS will soon have a satellite ground station on air and I look forward to talking to them on the QO-100 transponder.

Getting back to antenna analysers, I purchased the JNCRadio VNA 3G from MLANDS at £199.96 + postage and have been trying it out on a couple of antennas here at the M0AWS QTH.

Initially I wanted to check the SWR of my QO-100 2.4GHz IceCone Helix antenna on my satellite ground station to ensure it was resonant at the right frequency. Hooking the VNA up to the antenna feed was simple enough using one of the cables provided with the unit and I set about configuring the start and stop stimulus frequencies (2.4GHz to 2.450GHz) for the sweep to plot the curve.

The resulting SWR curve showed that the antenna was indeed resonant at 2.4GHz with an SWR of 1.16:1. The only issue I had was that in the bright sunshine it was hard to see the display and impossible to get a photo. Setting the screen on the brightest setting didn’t improve things much either so this is something to keep in mind if you plan on using the device outside in sunny climates.

(My understanding is that the Rig Expert AA-3000 Zoom is much easier to see outside on a sunny day however, it will cost you almost £1200 for the privilege.)

A couple of days later I decided to check the SWR of my 20m band EFHW vertical antenna. I’ve known for some time that this antenna has a point of resonance below 14MHz but, the SWR was still low enough at the bottom of the 20m band to make it useable.

Hooking up the VNA I could see immediately that the point of resonance was at 13.650Mhz, well low of the 20m band and so I set about shortening the wire until the point of resonance moved up into the band.

With a little folding back of wire I soon had the point of resonance nicely into the 20m band with a 1.35:1 SWR at 14.208Mhz. This provides a very useable SWR across the whole band but, I decided I’d prefer the point of resonance to be slightly lower as I tend to use the antenna mainly on the CW & FT4/8 part of the band with my Icom IC-705 QRP rig.

Popping out into the garden once more I lengthened the wire easily enough by reducing the fold back and brought the point of resonance down to 14.095Mhz.

The VNA automatically updated the display realtime to show the new point of resonance on the 4.3in colour screen. I also altered the granularity of the SWR reading on the Y axis to show a more detailed view of the curve and reduced the frequency range on the X axis so that it showed a 14Mhz to 14.35Mhz sweep. With an SWR of 1.34:1 at 14.095Mhz and a 50 Ohm impedance, the antenna is perfectly resonant where I want it.

It’s interesting to note that the antenna is actually useable between 13.5Mhz and 14.5Mhz with a reasonable SWR across the entire frequency spread. Setting 3 markers on the SWR curve I could see at a glance the SWR reading at 14Mhz (Marker 2) , 14.350Mhz (Marker 3) and the minimum SWR reading at 14.095Mhz (Marker 1).

I’ve yet to delve into the other functionality of the VNA but, I’m very happy with my initial experience with the device.

More soon …

I’ve been gradually building my QO-100 ground station over the last few months and have had the receive path working for some time now. One of the things I really miss with the Funcube Dongle Pro+ (FCD) SDR is a real VFO knob for changing frequency.

My QO-100 Node Red dashboard is configured so that I can have the FCD track the uplink frequency from the IC-705 but, sometimes I use the FCD without the IC-705 in the shack and so a physical VFO would be handy.

Many years ago when I lived in France (F5VKM) I had a Flexradio Flex-3000 SDR, a great radio in it’s time and one that gave me many hours of enjoyment. One addition I bought for that station was a Griffin Technology Powermate VFO knob. It worked extremely well with the PowerSDR software for the Flex-3000 and I used it for many years.

Many years later I’m back in the UK and much of my equipment is packed away in the attic, including the Griffin Technology Powermate VFO.

I decided to dig it out and see if I could get it working with GQRX SDR software. Sadly I couldn’t get it working with GQRX however, I did find a way of getting it working with Node Red and thus could add it to my QO-100 Node Red Dashboard and then control GQRX with it via a simple Node Red flow.

Plugging the Powermate VFO into my Kubuntu PC it wasn’t immediately recognised by the Linux O/S. After a little searching I found the driver on Github. I added the PPA to my aptitude sources and installed the driver using apt.

https://launchpad.net/~stefansundin/+archive/ubuntu/powermate

Once installed the default config for the Powermate device is to control the default audio device volume. To make the device available for use as a VFO knob you need to change the configuration so that the default setting is disabled. To do this is relatively easy, just edit the config file using your favourite command line editor (Vi/Vim in my case) and add the following entry.

vi /etc/powermate.toml

# Entry to control HDMI volume with Powermate
#sink_name = "alsa_output.pci-0000_01_00.1.hdmi-stereo"

# Set powermate not to work with volume control
sink_name = ""

As shown above, comment out the default “sink_name” entry (Yours may be different depending on audio device in your PC) and add in the Powermate “sink_name” entry that effectively assigns it to nothing.

Once this is done, save the file and exit your editor and then reboot the PC.

Next you’ll need to install a small program called evtest.

sudo apt install evtest

To check the evtest program has installed correctly, plugin your Powermate VFO to any available USB port and run the following command in a terminal.

evtest /dev/input/powermate

Turning the Powermate knob you should see output on the screen showing the input from the device. You should also see BTN events for each press of the Powermate device.

Input driver version is 1.0.1
Input device ID: bus 0x3 vendor 0x77d product 0x410 version 0x400
Input device name: "Griffin PowerMate"
Supported events:
  Event type 0 (EV_SYN)
  Event type 1 (EV_KEY)
    Event code 256 (BTN_0)
  Event type 2 (EV_REL)
    Event code 7 (REL_DIAL)
  Event type 4 (EV_MSC)
    Event code 1 (MSC_PULSELED)
Properties:
Testing ... (interrupt to exit)
Event: time 1685816662.086666, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value -1
Event: time 1685816662.086666, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816662.318638, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value -1
Event: time 1685816662.318638, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816662.574615, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value -1
Event: time 1685816662.574615, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816663.670461, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value 1
Event: time 1685816663.670461, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816664.030421, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value 1
Event: time 1685816664.030421, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816664.334389, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value 1
Event: time 1685816664.334389, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816665.334255, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 1
Event: time 1685816665.334255, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816665.558230, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 0
Event: time 1685816665.558230, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816666.030161, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 1
Event: time 1685816666.030161, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816666.182151, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 0
Event: time 1685816666.182151, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------

At this point you’re ready to stop evtest (CTRL-C) and then create the following little BASH shell script that Node Red will run to collect the O/P from the Powermate USB device.

#!/bin/bash

###############################################
# Griffin Technology Powermate control script #
# for Node Red.                               #
#                                             #
# 04/06/23 - M0AWS - v0.1                     #
#                                             #
###############################################

VAL="1"
echo "STEP-1Hz"

/usr/bin/evtest /dev/input/powermate | while read LINE 
do
   case $LINE in

      *"(REL_DIAL), value 1") echo "$VAL"
           ;;

      *"(REL_DIAL), value -1") echo "-$VAL"
           ;;

      *"(BTN_0), value 1") case $VAL in

                              "1") VAL="10"
                                   echo "STEP-10Hz"
                                      ;;

                             "10") VAL="100"
                                   echo "STEP-100Hz"
                                      ;;

                             "100") VAL="1000"
                                    echo "STEP-1Khz"
                                       ;;

                             "1000") VAL="10000"
                                     echo "STEP-10Khz"
                                         ;;

                             "10000") VAL="1"
                                       echo "STEP-1Hz"
                                          ;;
                              esac
                                 ;;
        esac
done

Once the BASH script is copied and pasted into a file called powermate.sh you need to make it executable by using the following command.

chmod 700 ./powermate.sh

If you now run the shell script in a terminal you’ll see a similar output to that shown below from the device when used.

./powermate.sh 
STEP-1Hz
-1
-1
-1
1
1
1
STEP-10Hz
10
10
10
-10
-10
-10
STEP-100Hz
100
-100
-100
STEP-1Khz
1000
STEP-10Khz
STEP-1Hz
1
1
STEP-10Hz

As you can see above the shell script outputs a positive or negative number for VFO tuning and changes the VFO step size each time the Powermate is depressed.

Getting this output from the BASH shell script into Node Red is really simple to achieve using just 3 or 4 nodes.

In the Node Red development UI create the following nodes.

The first node in the flow is a simple inject node, here I called it trigger. This sends a timestamp into the next node in the flow at startup to set the flow running.

The Griffin Powermate node is a simple exec node that runs the script we created above.

Configure the node as shown above and connect it to the inject node that’s used as a trigger. Note: Change “user” in the Command field shown above to that of your username on your Linux PC)

Once done create the third node in the flow, a simple switch node and configure as shown below.

The switch node has two outputs, the top one is a text output that is fed into a text field to show the current step size of the Powermate device and the lower output is the numeric output that must be fed into your VFO control flow so that the VFO value is incremented/decremented by the amount output by the Powermate device.

I’ve found the Griffin Technology Powermate USB device works extremely well with Node Red and GQRX that I use for controlling the FCD SDR radio and it’s now part of my QO-100 ground station build.

As shown above you can see the Powermate Step size at the bottom of the dashboard, this text changes each time the Powermate device is depressed and will set a step size of 1Hz, 10Hz, 100Hz, 1Khz, 10Khz in a round-robin fashion.

The next stage of the build is the 2.4Ghz transmit path. I now have all the necessary hardware and so this part of the build can finally commence.

More soon …

Wish list. Most off grid hams are off grid only for portable operations. Many of them would like a larger, permanent home system but don’t know where to start or what such a project involves. If having an off grid home solar power system has been a longtime wish, this... Read more »

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We’re still alive! November and December have been very busy months. In that short time I both decided to find a new job, found a new job, and started the new job. I’m back into doing what I love best: Fixing things, and writing things. I guess you could just say I’m wired that way. …

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