A blog posting about a fan?  Really?

Why not!

Figure 1: The modified fan on my cluttered workbench, running from 13 volts. The external DC input plug is visible on the lower left. Click on the image for a larger version.

This blog post is less about a fan, but is more of example of the use of a low-cost buck-type voltage converter to efficiently power a device intended for a lower voltage than might be available - in this case, a device (the fan) that expects 3 volts.  In many cases, "12" volts (which may be anything from 10 to 15 volts) will be available from an existing power source (battery, vehicle, power supply) and it would be nice to be able to run everything from that one power bus.

Background

Several years ago I picked up a 5" battery-operated DC fan branded "O2 Cool" that has come in handy occasionally when I needed a bit of airflow on a hot day.  While self-contained, using two "D" cells - it can't run from a common external power source such as 12 volts.

Getting 3 volts

Since this fan uses 3 volts, an obvious means of powering it from 12 volts would be to simply add a dropping resistor - but I wasn't really a fan of this idea (pun intended!) as it would be very wasteful in power and since doing this would effectively defeat the speed switch - which, itself is just a 2.2 ohm resistor placed in series with the battery when set to "low".

The problem is that the fan itself pulls 300-400 mA on high speed.  If I were to drop the voltage resistively from 12 volts (e.g. a 9 volt drop) - and if we assume a 300mA current - we would need to add (9/0.3 = ) 30 ohms of series resistance to attain the same speed on "high" as with the battery.  The "low speed" switch inserts a 2.2 ohm resistor, and while this works with its original 3 volt supply, adding this amount to 30 ohms would result in a barely noticeable difference in speed, effectively turning it into a single-speed fan.  By directly supplying the fan with something close to the original voltage, we preserve the efficacy of the high/low speed switch.

Fortunately, there's an answer:  An inexpensive buck converter board.  The board that I picked - based on the MP1584 chip - is plentiful on both EvilBay and Amazon, typically for less than US$2 each.  These operate at a switching frequency of about 1 MHz and aren't terribly prone to cause radio interference, having also been used to power 5 volt radios and even single-board computers (such as the Raspberry Pi) from 12 volts without issues.

These buck converters can handle as much as 24 volts on the input and provide up to 3 amps output - more than enough for our purpose - and can also be adjusted to output about any voltage that is at least 4 volts lower than the input voltage - including the nominal 3 volts that we need for the fan.

An additional advantage is the efficiency of this voltage conversion.  These devices are typically 80% efficient or better meaning that our 300 mA at 3 volts (about 0.9 watts of power) would translate to less than 100mA at 12 volts (a bit more than a watt).  Contrast this to the hypothetical resistive dropper discussed earlier where we would be burning up nearly 3 watts in the 30 ohm resistor by itself!

Implementation

One of my goals was to retain the ability of this fan to run at 3 volts as it would still be convenient to have this thing run stand-alone from internal power.  Perhaps overkill, but to do this I implemented a simple circuit using a small relay to switch to the buck converter when external power was present and internal power when it was not, rather than parallel the buck converter across the battery.

If I never intended to use the internal "D" cells ever again I would have dispensed with the relay entirely and not needed to make the slight modifications to the switch board mentioned below.  In this case I would have had plenty of room in the case and freedom to place the components wherever I wished.  In lieu of the ballast of the battery to hold the fan down and stable, I would have placed some weight in the case (some bolts, nuts, random hardware, rocks) to prevent it from tipping over.

The diagram of this circuitry is shown below:

Figure 2: Diagram of the finished/modified fan. On the left, J1 is the center-positive coaxial power connector with diode D1 and self-resetting resetting thermal fuse F1 to protect against reverse polarity.  The relay selects the source of power. Click on the image for a larger version.

The original parts of are the High/Low switch, the battery and the fan itself on the right side of the schematic with the added circuits being the jack (J1), the self-resetting fuse (F1), D1, R1, the buck converter and the relay (RLY).

How it works:

When no external power is applied, the relay (RLY) is de-energized and via the "NC" (Normally-Closed) contacts, the battery is connected to the High/Low switch and everything operates as it originally did.

External power is applied via "J1" which is a coaxial power jack, wiring the center pin as positive:  The connector that I used happens to have a 2.5mm diameter center pin and expects an outer shell diameter of 5.5mm.  There's nothing special about this jack except that I happen to have it on-hand.

When power is applied, the relay is energized and the high/low switch is disconnected from the battery but is now connected, via the "NO" (Normally Open) contacts, to the OUT+ terminal of the buck converter.  

Ideally, a small 12 volt relay would be used, but the smallest relay that I found in my junk box was a 5 volt unit, requiring that the coil voltage be dropped.  Measuring the relay coil's resistance as 160 ohms, I knew that it required about 30 mA (5/160 = 0.03) and if we were to use 12 volts, we'd need to drop (12 - 5 =) 7 volts.  The resistance needed to drop 7 volts is therefore (7/0.03 = ) 233 ohms - but since I was more likely to operate it from closer to 13 volts much of the time I chose the next higher standard value of resistance, 270 ohms to put in series for R1.

Figure 3: Modification of the switch board.  The button is the positive battery terminal and traces are cut to isolate it to allow relay switching. Click on the image for a larger version.

Modification to the switch board

The High/Low switch board also houses the positive battery contact, but since it is required that we disconnect the battery when running from external power, a slight modification is required, so a few traces were cut and a jumper wire added to isolate the tab that connects to the positive end of the battery as seen in Figure 3.

Figure 4: The top of the board battery board. The connection to the Batt+ is made by soldering to the tab. Click on the image for a larger version.

In Figure 4 we can see the top of the board with the 2.2 ohm resistor - but we also see the wire (white and green) that connects to one of the tabs for the Battery + button on the bottom of the board:  The wire was connected on this side of the circuit board to keep it out of the way round battery tab and the "battery +" connection.

The mechanical parts

For a modification like this, there's no need to make a circuit board - or even use prototyping boards.  Because we are cramming extra components in an existing box, we have to be a bit clever as to where we put things in that we have only limited choices.

Figure 5: Getting ready to install the connector after a session of drilling and filing. Click on the image for a larger version.

Figure 5 shows the location of this connector.  Inside the box. this is located between two bosses and there is just enough room to mount it.  To do this, small holes were drilled into the case at the corners of the connector and a sharp pair of flush-cut diagonal nippers were used to open a hole.  From here it was a matter of filing and checking until the dimensions of the hole afforded a snug fit of the connector.

Figure 6: A close-up of the buck converter board with the attached wires and BATT- spring terminal. The tiny voltage adjustment potentiometer is visible near the upper-left corner of the board. Click on the image for a larger version.

Figure 6 shows the buck converter board itself in front of the cavity in which it will be placed, next to the negative battery "spring" connector.  Diode D1 is soldered on the back side of this board and along the right edge, the yellow self-resetting fuse is visible.  Like everything else the relay was wired with flying leads as well, with resistor R1 being placed at the relay for convenience.

Figure 7: The relay, wired up with the flying leads. Click on the image for a larger version.

Figure 7 shows the wiring of the relay.  Again, this was chosen for its size - but any SPDT relay that will fit in the gap and not interfere mechanically with the battery should do the job.

The red wire - connected to the resistor - comes from the positive connector on the jack and the "IN+" of the buck converter board - the orange wire is the common connection of the High/Low switch, the white/violet comes from the "OUT+" of the buck converter and goes to the N.O. (Normally Open) contact on the relay, the white/green goes to the N.C. (Normally Closed) relay contact and the black is the negative lead attached to the coil.

Everything in its place

Figure 8 shows the internals of the fan with the added circuitry.  Shoe Goo was again employed to hold the buck converter board and the relay in place while the wires were carefully tucked into rails that look as though they were intended for this!

Now it was time to test it out:  I connected a bench power supply to the coaxial connector and set the voltage of my external test power supply at 10 volts - enough to reliably pull in the relay - and set the fan to low speed.  At this point I adjusted the (tiny!) potentiometer on the buck converter board for an output of 3.2 volts - about that which could be expected from a very fresh pair of "D" cells.

Figure 8: Everything wired and in its final locations.  On the far left is the switch board.  To the left of the hinge is the relay with the buck converter on the right side of the hinge.  The jack and negative battery terminal is on the far right of the case. Click on the image for a larger version.

The only thing left to do was to make a power cord to keep with the fan.  As is my wont, I tend to use Anderson Power Pole connectors for my 12 volt connections and I did so here.

As I also tend to do, I always attach two sets of Anderson connectors to the end of my DC power cords - the idea being that I would not "hog" DC power connections and leave somewhere to plug something else in.  While the power cord for the fan was just 22 gauge wire, I used heavier wire (#14 AWG) between the two Anderson connectors so that I could still run high-current devices.

* * *

Does it work?

Of course it does - it's a fan!

The relay switches over at about 8.5 volts making the useful voltage range via the external connector between 9 and 16 volts - perfect for use with an ostensibly "12 volt" system where the actual voltage can vary between 10 and 14 volts, depending on the battery chemistry and type.

Figure 9: The fan, folded up with power cord. The two connectors and short section of heavy conductor can be just seen. Click on the image for a larger version.

Without the weight of the two "D" batteries, the balance of the fan is slightly precarious and prone to tip forward slightly, but this could be fixed by leaving batteries in the unit - but this is not desirable for long-term storage as leakage is the likely result.

Alternatively, one may place some ballast in the battery compartment (large bolt wrapped in insulation, a rag, paper towel, etc.) or simply by placing something (perhaps a rock or two) on the top.  Alternatively, since the fan is typically placed on a desktop, it is often tilted slightly upwards and that offsets the center of gravity in our favor and this - plus the thrust from the airflow - prevents tipping.

This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com

[End]

Figure 1: Inexpensive PT2399-based audio delay board as found on the usual Internet sites. Click on the image for a larger version.

In an earlier blog post (Fixing the CAT Systems DL-1000 and PT-1000 repeater audio delay boards - LINK) I discussed the modification of a PT2399-based audio delay line for use with the CAT-1000 repeater controller - and I also hinted that it would be possible to take an inexpensive, off-the-shelf PT2399-based audio effects (echo/reverb) board and convert it into just a delay board. 

While the uses of an echo-less delay for more mundane purposes may be apparent, it would be fair to ask why might one use an audio delay in an amateur radio repeater?  There are several possibilities:

• The muting of DTMF ("Touch Tone") control signals.  Typically, it takes a few 10s of milliseconds to detect such signals and being able to delay the audio means that they can be muted "after" they are detected.
  

• Reducing the probability of cutting off the beginning of incoming transmissions due to the slow response of a subaudible tone.  By passing COS-squelched audio through the delay - but gating it after the delay, one may still get the benefits of a tone squelch, but prevent the loss of the beginning of a transmission.  This is particularly important on cascaded, linked systems where it may take some time for the system to key up from end-to-end.
  

• The suppression of squelch noise burst at the end of the transmission.  By knowing "before-hand" when an input signal goes away, one can mute the delayed audio such that the noise burst is eliminated.
  

Making good on the threat in the previous article, I reverse-engineered one of the PT2399-based boards available from Amazon and EvilBay and here, I present this modification, using one of these boards as a general-purpose audio delay.

The board:

Figure 2: Schematic diagram of the audio delay board, with modification instructions. This diagram is reverse-engineered from the board depicted in Figure 1. Click on the image for a larger version.

The PT2399 boards found at the usual Internet sellers like EvilBay or Amazon are typically built exactly from the manufacturer's data sheet, and one of those found on the Internet for less than US$10 is depicted in Figure 1.  (Note that the chip may have another prefix in front of the number, such as "AD2399" or "CD2399")

The pictured board is surprisingly well-built, with plenty of bypassing of the voltage supply rails and a reasonable layout.  Despite the use of small, surface-mount resistors, it is fairly easy to modify, given a bit of care, and most of the components have visible silkscreen markings, making it easy to correlate the reverse-engineered circuit diagram (above) with the on-board components.

A few of the components do not have visible silkscreen markings (perhaps located under the components themselves?) and these are labeled in the circuit diagram and the board layout diagram (below in Figure 3) with letters such as "CA", "CB", "RA", etc.

Figure 3:  Board layout showing component designations of the board in Figure 1. Note that some of the components have no silkscreen markings and are labeled with letters that have been arbitrarily identified as "CA", "CB", "RA", etc. Click on the image for a larger version.

Removing the echo, making it delay-only

This circuit is the "bog standard" echo/reverb circuit from the app note - but it requires modification to be used as a simple audio delay as follows:

• The output audio needs to be pulled from a different location (pin 14 rather than pin 15):
• Remove R22, the 5.6k resistor in series with the output capacitor marked "CC".
• A jumper needs to be placed between the junction of the (former) R22 and capacitor "CC" and pin 14 of the IC as depicted in Figure 4, below.
  

• The feedback for the reverb need to be disabled and this involves the removal of capacitors C15 and C17.

Figure 4: The modified PT2399 board, showing the jumper on pin 14 and the two flying resistors on the potentiometer, now used for delay adjustment.  Note the deleted C15 and C17. Click on the image for a larger version.

Figure 5, below, shows the schematic of the modified board with the changes described above.

At this point the board is converted to being a delay-only board, but with the amount of delay fixed at approximately 200 milliseconds with the value of R27  being 15k as seen in table 1, below.  This amount of delay is quite reasonable for use on a repeater to provide the aforementioned functions with no further modifications.

Optional delay adjustment:

By removing the need to be able to adjust the amount of echo/reverb, we have freed the 50k potentiometer, "RA", to be used as a delay adjustment as follows:

• Remove R27, the 15k resistor, and replace this with a 47k resistor.  This is most easily done by using a 1/4 or 1/8 watt through-hole resistor and soldering one end directly to pin 6 and the other to ground, using the middle "G" pin along the edge of the board.
  
• Remove R21 and using a 1/4 or 1/8 watt leaded 4.7k resistor, solder one end across where R21 went (to connect the wiper of potentiometer "RA") to pin 6 of the IC.
• The 4.7k resistor (and parallel 47k resistor) sets the minimum resistance at about 4.3k while the maximum resistance is set by the parallel 47k resistor and the 50k potentiometer in series with the 4.7k resistor at about 25.3k.  These set the minimum and maximum delay attainable by adjustment of the potentiometer.
  

Of course, one may also use surface-mount resistors rather than through-hole components, using jumper wires rather than the flying leads of the components. 

Figure 5:  Diagram of of the '2399 board after the modifications to be a "delay-only" circuit. Click on the image for a larger version

This modification provides a delay that is adjustable from a bit more than 300 milliseconds to around 80 milliseconds, adjustable via the variable potentiometer. 

It's worth noting that if you do NOT  require a variable delay, using fixed resistors may offer better reliability than an inexpensive potentiometer of unknown quality - something to consider if the board is to be located on a remote repeater site.

If variable delay is not required, one would not use the 4.7k resistor at the junction of R21/"RA" - or use the potentiometer at all, and R27 would be replaced with a fixed resistor, the value chosen for the desired amount of delay as indicated in the following table:

The chart above shows examples of resistance to attain certain delays, but standard resistor values may be used and the amount of delay interpolated between it and the values shown in the table.  

While not specified in the data sheet, the delay will vary with temperature to a slight degree as the onboard oscillator drifts, so it is recommended that the needed delay be chosen such that it will allow a slight variance while still providing the amount of delay for the needed task.

Comment: 

If this is to be powered from a 12 volt supply, it's suggested that one place a resistor in series with the "+" input to provide additional decoupling of the power supply.  The (possible) issue is that the 470uF input capacitor ("CA" on the diagram) will couple power supply noise/ripple into the ground of the audio delay board itself - and associated audio leads - potentially resulting in circulating currents (ground loop) which can induce noise.  Additionally, an added series resistance provides a modicum of additional protection against power supply related spikes.

The board itself draws less than 50 milliamps, and as long as at least 8 volts is present on the input of U4, the 5 volt regulator, everything will be fine.  A 1/4-watt 47 ohm resistor (any value from 33 to 62 ohms will work) will do nicely. 

* * * * * * *

Addendum:  Adding audio switching

Since the original publication of this post there have been several questions as to how to "switch" audio to the delay board.  In many cases, this will not be required as the device being used (say, a repeater controller) may already have an audio gate - but in the event that you really do need to switch audio on/off - or switch it between "A" and "B", refer to Figure 6, below.

Figure 6: Examples of using the 4066 quad audio gate for audio gating and switching. Both an "on/off" gate and "A/B" switch - plus using a 4066 to generate an inverted logic signals - is depicted. Click on the image for a larger version.

How it works:

For the audio switching we will use the 4066 quad analog switch.  In this example, we are using the CD4066 - the "old school" 4000-series CMOS which can operate between 3 and 15 volts.  The "newer" "HC" logic versions may also be used, but their maximum voltage is either 5 or 6 volts, depending on the specific part used. 

The "On/Off" gate:

Let's take the On/Off gate as the first example.  Note that the input/output ports - which are interchangeable (e.g. the switch is bidirectional so it could even be used with bidirectional signals) - are biased with R201 and R202 which sets the resting DC voltage at about 1/2 the supply voltage from the circuit marked "V+/2 Source".  Capacitors are used on these lines to block this DC bias voltage from appearing on the In/Out lines and disrupting the bias.  If you are switching audio lines with DC already on them, be sure to consider the polarity of the blocking capacitors in the event that this "external" audio source's voltage is higher than V+/2.

The reason for adding a bias voltage to the In/Out audio is to prevent the audio swing from causing the protection diodes found on this (and almost all other) chips from conducting if it exceeds either V+ or goes "below" ground:  Doing so would likely cause distortion of the audio on the positive and/or negative peaks.

Note that the bias is applied to both the input and output.  This is done to prevent an audio "click" or "pop" that would occur when the switch was closed:  If the DC voltages weren't exactly equal on the in/out lines when the switch was open, closing (turning on) the switch would cause a sudden change in the form of a click.

The "A/B" gate:

If you wish to switch two different audio signals from the same logic signal by turning one or the other on, this circuit is a replication of the "On/Off" gate - but it uses another 4066 gate as a logic inverter.  When the "A" switch is on, U1d - the middle switch - is also turned on, shorting R303 to ground which turns of the "B" switch.  When the "A" switch is turned off by setting its logic level to low, U1d is now turned off but the control line for the "B" switch is pulled high by R303, turning it on.

While the example shows two separate switches, one could connect them together, tying one of the in/out lines of each switch together as the common in/out port if you wished to use it to select source "A" or source "B".  If you do this, you could probably eliminate one of the blocking capacitors - but there's little harm if leaving it there if you are unsure as to what to do.

The "Low Voltage Logic to High Voltage Logic" converter:

All digital ICs have threshold voltages for their logic inputs - and the 4066 is no exception.  If you operate the 4066 gates from 12 volts, you will need "about" 12 volts on the "control" pin to properly "turn on" the audio gate:  Applying, say, 5 volts to it as a "high" signal probably won't work so the voltage of this control signal must match the supply voltage of the switch chip.

This is a very simple one-transistor logic level converter.  In the event that you have, say, a repeater controller that has 3.3 volt logic, but you choose to power the 4066 audio switches from 12 volts, you can use this to derive the 12 volt logic level needed to properly switch.  One downside of this circuit is that it will "invert" the logic signal:  Input a "1" (high voltage) and you get a "0" (low voltage) on the output.

Depending on the audio control signal from your controller, it may already be a "low active" type - or it may be programmable.  In the event that you need to do a high voltage logic level and  that it NOT be inverted you can put two of these one-transistor circuits in series.  If you are already needing to switch between audio "A" and "B", you wouldn't need to do this as you could simply swap "A" and "B" if you end up with an "inverted" control signal.

Selection of power supply voltage:

As mentioned, the CD4066 may operate from anywhere from 3 to 15 volts:  12 volts is sometimes convenient as that may be the unregulated input voltage of the main power supply - but what voltage is appropriate?

The supply voltage should be equal to or higher than the peak-to-peak audio signal - something that can only be measured accurately with an oscilloscope.  For example, if you have a repeater and the peak audio voltage from the audio line when the receiver is running open squelch with no signal is 8 volts, you should NOT power the 4066 audio gate from 5 volts - but 10 or more volts would certainly provide adequate headroom.  If your audio level peak-to-peak voltage exceeds the power supply voltage, the audio will be clipped by the 4066's protection diodes and cause audio distortion.

If, in the above example, the peak voltage from the squelch noise was only 3.5 volts peak-to-peak, you could operate the 4066 from a 5 volt supply, saving you the need for logic level conversion and alsopermitting the use of the "74HC4066" instead.

Consideration of impedance:

These switches are intended for "high" load impedance (typically 10k or more) audio input rather than for audio switching where the LOAD impedance is low - such as a speaker.  The reason for this has to do with the resistance of the 4066 gates (which could be 10s or 100s of ohms) and, to a lesser extent, the value of the blocking capacitors  Fortunately, the input impedance of most sources on which this would be used (audio amplifier, repeater controller) are typically quite high.

* * * * * * *

This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com

[END]

Figure 1: The older DL-1000 (top) and the newer AD-1000, both after modification. Click on the image for a larger version.

Comment: 

There is a follow-up of this article where an inexpensive PT2399-based reverb board is analyzed and converted into a delay board suitable for repeater use:   Using an inexpensive PT2399 music reverb/effects board as an audio delay - LINK

A few weeks ago I was helping one of the local ham clubs go through their repeaters, the main goal being to equalize audio levels between the input and output to make them as "transparent" as possible - pretty much a matter of adjusting the gain and deviation appropriately, using test equipment.  Another task was to determine the causes of noises in the audio paths and other anomalies which were apparent to a degree at all of the sites.

All of the repeater sites in question use CAT-1000 repeater controllers equipped with audio delay boards to help suppress the "squelch noise" and to ameliorate the delay resulting from the slow response of a subaudible tone decoder.  Between the sites, I ran across the older DL-1000 and the newer AD-1000 - but all of these boards had "strange" issues.

The DL-1000:

This board uses the MX609 CVSD codec chip which turns audio into a single-bit serial stream at 64 kbps using a 4-bit encoding algorithm, which is then fed into a CY7C187-15 64k x 1 bit RAM, the "old" audio data being read from the RAM and converted back to audio just before the "new" data is written..  To adjust the amount of delay in a binary-weighted fashion, a set of DIP switches are used to select how much of this RAM is used by enabling/disabling the higher-order address bits.

The problem:

It was noticed that the audio from the repeater had a bit of an odd background noise - almost a squeal, much like an amplifier stage that is on the verge of oscillation.  For the most part, this odd audio property went unnoticed, but if an "A/B" comparison was done between the audio input and output - or if one inputted a full-quieting, unmodulated carrier and listened carefully on a radio to the output of the repeater, this strange distortion could be heard.

Figure 2: The location of C5 on the DL-1000.  A 0.56 uF capacitor was used to replace the original 0.1 (I had more of those than I had 0.47's) and either one would probably have been fome As noted below, I added another to the bottom of the board. Click on the image for a larger version.

This issue was most apparent when a 1 kHz tone was modulated on a test carrier and strange mixing products could be heard in the form of a definite "warble" or "rumble" in the background, superimposed on the tone. Wielding an oscilloscope, it was apparent that there was a low-frequency "hitchhiker" on the sine wave coming out of the delay board that wasn't present on the input - probably the frequency of the low-level "squeal" mixing with the 1 kHz tone.  Because of the late hour - and because we were standing in a cold building atop a mountain ridge - we didn't really have time to do a full diagnosis, so we simply pulled the board, bypassing the delay audio pins with a jumper.

On the workbench, using a signal tracer, I observed the strange "almost oscillation" on pin 10 of the MX609 - the audio input - but not on pin 7 of U7B, the op-amp driver.  This implied that there was something amiss with the coupling capacitor - a 0.1uF plastic unit, C5, but because these capacitors almost never fail, particularly with low-level audio circuits, I suspected something fishy and checked the MX609's data sheet and noted that it said "The source impedance should be less than 100 ohms.  Output channel noise levels will improve with an even lower impedance."  What struck me was that with a coupling capacitor of just 0.1uF, this 100 ohm impedance recommendation would be violated at frequencies below 16 kHz - hardly adequate for voice frequencies!

Figure 3: The added 2.2uF tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board across C5.  The positive side goes toward the MX609, which is on the right. Click on the image for a larger version.

Initially, I bridged C5 with another 0.1uF plastic unit and the audible squealing almost completely disappeared.  I then bridged C5 it with a 0.47uF capacitor which squashed the squealing sound and moved the 100 ohm point to around 4 kHz, so I replaced C5 with a 0.56uF capacitor - mainly because I had more of those than small 0.47uF units.

Not entirely satisfied, I bridged C5 with a 10uF electrolytic capacitor, moving the 100 ohm impedance point down to around 160 Hz - a frequency that is below the nominal frequency response of the audio channel - and it caused a minor, but obvious quieting of the remaining noise, particularly at very low audio frequencies (e.g. the "hiss" sounded distinctly "smoother".)   Because I had plenty of them on-hand, I settled on a 2.2 uF tantalum capacitor (100 ohms at 723 Hz) - the positive side toward U2 and tacked to the bottom of side of the board - which gave a result audibly indistinguishable from 10 uF.  In this location, a good-quality electrolytic of 6.3 volts or higher would probably work as well, but for small-signal applications like this a tantalum is an excellent choice, particularly in harsh temperature environments.

At this point I'll note that any added capacitance should NOT be done with ceramic units.  Typical ceramic capacitors in the 0.1uF range or higher are of the "Z5U" type or similar and their capacitance changes wildly with temperature meaning that extremes may cause the added capacitance to effectively "go away" and the squealing noise may return under those conditions.  Incidentally, these types of ceramic capacitors can also be microphonic, but unless you have strapped your repeater controller to an engine, that's probably not important.

Were I to do this to another board I would simply tack a small tantalum (or electrolytic) capacitor - anything from 1 to 10 uF, rated for 6 volts or more - on the bottom side of the board, across the still-installed, original C5 (as depicted in Figure 3) with the positive side of the capacitor toward U2, the MX609.

Note: 

One of the repeater sites also had a "DL-1000A" delay board - apparently a later revision of the DL-1000.  A very slight amount of the "almost oscillation" was noted on the audio output of this delay board, too, but between its low level and having limited time on site, we didn't investigate further. 

This board appears to be similar to the DL-1000 in that it has many of the same chips - including the CY7187 RAM, but it doesn't have a socketed MX609 on the top of the board, and likely a surface-mount codec on the bottom.  It is unknown if this is a revision of the original DL-1000 or closer to the DL-1000C which has a TP4057 - a codec functionally similar to the MX609.

The question arises as to why this modification might be necessary?   Clearly, the designers of this board didn't pay close enough attention to the data sheet of the MX609 codec otherwise they would have probably fitted C5 with a larger value - 0.47 or 1 uF would have probably been "good enough".  I suspect that there are enough variations of the MX609 - and that the level of this instability - is low enough that it would largely go unnoticed by most, but to my critical ears it was quite apparent when an A/B comparison was done when the repeater was passing a full-quieting, unmodulated carrier and made very apparent when a 1 kHz tone was applied.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

The AD-1000:

This is a newer variant of the delay board that includes audio gating and it uses a PT2399, a chip commonly used for audio echo/delay effects in guitars pedals and other musical instrument accessories as it has an integrated audio delay chip that includes 44 kbits of internal RAM.

The problems:

This delay board had two problems:  An obvious audio "squeal", very similar to that on the older DL-1000, but extremely audible, but there was a less obvious problem - something that sounded like "wow" and flutter of an old record on a broken turntable in that the pitch of the audio through the repeater would warble randomly.  This problem wasn't immediately obvious on speech, but this pitch variation pretty much corrupted any DTMF signalling that one attempted to pass through the system, making the remote control of links and other repeater functions difficult.

RF Susceptibility:

Figure 4: The top of the modified AD-1000 board where the added 1k resistor is shown between C11/R13 and pin 2 of the connector, the board trace being severed. Near the upper-right is R14, replaced with a 10 ohm resistor, but simply jumpering this resistor with a blob of solder would likely have been fine. Click on the image for a larger version.

Tracing the audio input, it passes through C1, a decoupling capacitor, and then R2, a 10k resistor - and this type of series resistance generally provides pretty good resistance to RF ingress, mainly because a 10k resistor like this has several k-ohms of impedance - even at VHF frequencies, which is far higher impedance than any piece of ferrite material could provide!

The audio output was another story:  R13, another 10k resistor, is across the output to discharge any DC that might be there, but the audio then goes through C11, directly to pin 1 of U2, the output of an op-amp.  While this may be common practice under "normal" textbook circumstances, sending the audio out from an op-amp into a "hostile" environment must be done with care:  The coupling capacitor will simply pass any stray RF - such as that from a transmitter - into the op amp's circuitry, where it can cause havoc by interfering/biasing various junctions and upsetting circuit balance.  Additionally, having just a capacitor on the output of an op amp can be a hazard if there also happens to be an external RF decoupling capacitor - or simply a lot of stray capacitance (such as a long audio cable) as this can lead to amplifier instability - all issues that anyone who has ever designed with an op amp should know!

Figure 5: The added 1000pF cap on the audio gating lead. A surface-mount capacitor is shown, soldered to the ground plane on the bottom of the board, but a small disk- ceramic of between 470 and 1000 pF would likely be fine. Click on the image for a larger version.

Although not expected to be a problem, a 1000pF chip cap was also installed between the COS (audio gate) pin (pin 5) and ground - just in case RF was propagating into the audio path via this control line - this modification being depicted in Figure 5.

Of course, it will take another site visit to reinstall the board to determine if it is still being affected by the RF field and take any further action.

And no, the irony of a repeater's audio circuitry being adversely affected by RF is not lost on me!

 The "wow" issue:

On the bench I recreated the "wow" problem by feeding a tone into the board, causing the pitch to "bend" briefly as the level was changed, indicating that the clock oscillator for the delay was unstable as the sample frequency was changing between the time the audio entered and exited the RAM in the delay chip.  Consulting the data sheet for the PT2399 I noted that its operating voltage was nominally 5 volts, with a minimum of 4.5 volts - but the chip was being supplied with about 3.4 volts - and this changed slightly as the audio level changed.  Doing a bit of reverse-engineering, I noted that U4, a 78L05, provided 5 volts to the unit, but the power for U2, the op amp and U3, the PT2399, was supplied via R14 - a 100 ohm series resistor:  With a nominal current consumption of the PT2399 alone being around 15 milliamps, this explained the 1.6 volt drop.

The output at resistor R14 is bypassed with C14, a 33 uF tantalum capacitor, likely to provide a "clean" 5 volt supply to decouple U14's supply from the rest of the circuit - but 100 ohms is clearly too much for 15 mA of current!  While testing, I bridged (shorted) R14 and the audio frequency shifting stopped with no obvious increase in background noise, so simply removing and shorting across R14 is likely to be an effective field repair, but because I had some on hand, I replaced R14 with a 10 ohm resistor as depicted in Figure 4 and the resulting voltage drop is only a bit more than 100 millivolts, but retaining a modicum of power supply decoupling and maintaining stability of the delay line.

Figure 6: Schematic of the AD-1000, drawn by inspection and with the aid of the PT2399 data sheet. Click on the image for a larger version.

Figure 6, above, is a schematic drawn by inspection of an AD-1000 board with parts values supplied by the manual for the AD-1000.  As for a circuit description, the implementation of the PT2399 delay chip is straight from the data sheet, adding a dual op-amp (U2) for both input and output audio buffering and  U1, a 4053 MUX, along with Q1 and components, were added to implement an audio gate triggered by the COS line.

As can be seen, all active circuits - the op-amp, the mux chip and delay line - are powered via R14 and suffer the aforementioned voltage drop, explaining why the the supply voltage to U3 varied with audio content, causing instability in audio frequencies and difficulty in decoding DTMF tones passed through this board - and why, if you have one of these boards, you should make the recommended change to R14!

Conclusion:

What about the "wow" issue?  I'm really surprised that the value of R14 was chosen so badly.  Giving the designers the benefit of the doubt, I'll ignore the possibility of inattention and chalk this mistake, instead, to accidentally using a 100 ohm resistor instead of a 10 ohms resistor - something that might have happened at the board assembly house rather than being part of the original design. 

After a bit of digging around online I found the manual for the AD-1000 (found here) which includes a parts list (but not a schematic) that shows a value of 100 ohms for R14, so no, the original designers got it wrong from the beginning!

While the RF susceptibility issue will have to wait until another trip to the site to determine if more mitigation (e.g. addition of ferrite beads on the leads, additional bypass capacitance, etc.) is required, the other major problems - the audio instability on the DL-1000 and the "wow" issue on the AD-1000 have been solved.

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Comments about delay boards in general:

• Audio delay/effects boards using the PT2399 are common on EvilBay, so it would be trivial to retrofit an existing CAT controller with one of these inexpensive "audio effects" boards to add/replace a delay board - the only changes being a means of mechanically mounting the new board and, possibly, the need to regulate the controller's 12 volt supply down to whatever voltage the "new" board might require.  The AD-1000 has, unlike its predecessor, an audio mute pin which, if needed at all, could be accommodated by simple external circuitry.  Another blog post about using one of these audio delay/effects boards for repeater use will follow.
  

• In bench testing, the PT2399 delay board is very quiet compared the MX609 delay board - the former having a rated signal-noise ratio of around 90 dB (I could easily believe 70+ dB after listening) while the latter, being based on a lossy, single-bit codec, has a signal-noise ratio of around 45 dB - about the same as you'd get with a PCM audio signal path where 8 bit A/D and D/A converters were being used.
  

A signal/noise ratio of around 45 dB is on par with a "full quieting" signal on a typical narrowband FM communications radio link so the lower S/N ratio of the MX609 as compared with the PT2399 would likely go unnoticed.  Were I to implement a repeater system with these delay boards I would preferentially locate the MX609-based delay boards in locations where the noise contribution would be minimized (e.g. the input of the local repeater) while placing the quieter PT2399-based board in signal paths - such as a linked system - where one might end up with multiple, cascaded delay lines on link radios as the audio propagates through the system.  Practically speaking, it's likely that only the person with a combination of a critical ear and OCD is likely to even notice the difference!

This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com

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