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Resurrecting my FE-5680A Rubidium frequency reference

By: KA7OEI
2 October 2023 at 01:35

Fig 1:
The Hammond 1590 aluminum case
housing the FE-5860A rubidium osc-
oscillator and other circuitry - the
markings faded by time and heat.
Click on the image for a larger version.
Recently I was getting ready for the October 14, 2023 eclipse, so I pulled out my two 10 MHz rubidium frequency references (doesn't everyone have at least one?) as I would need an accurate and (especially) stable frequency reference for transmitting:Β  The details of what, why and how will be discussed in a post to be added in the near future.

The first of these - my Efratom LP-101 - fired up just fine, despite having seen several years of inactivity.Β  After letting it warm up for a few hours I dialed it in against my HP Z3801 GPSDO and was able to get it to hold to better than 5E-11 without difficulty.

My other rubidium frequency reference - the FEI FE-5680A - was another matter:Β  At first, it seemed to power up just fine:Β  I was using my dual-trace oscilloscope, feeding the 'Z3801 into channel 1 and the '5680A into channel 2 and watching the waveforms "slide" past each other - and when they stop moving (or move very, very slow) then you know things are working properly:Β  See Figure 2, below, for an example of this.

That did happen for the '5680A - but only for a moment:Β  After a few 10s of seconds of the two waveforms being stationary with respect to each other, the waveform of the '5680A suddenly took off and the frequency started "searching" back and forth, reaching only as high as a few Hz below exactly 10 MHz and swinging well over 100 Hz below that.

My first thought was something along the lines of "Drat, the oven oscillator has drifted off frequency..."

Fig 2:
Oscillogram showing the GPS reference (red)
and the FE-5680A (yellow) 10 MHz signals
atop each other.Β  Timing how long it takes for the
two waveforms "slide" past each other (e.g. drift
one whole cycle) allows long-term frequency
measurement and comparison.
Click on the image for a larger version.

As it turns out, that was exactly what had happened.

Note:Β 

Β I've written a bit more about the aforementioned rubidium frequency references, and you can read about them in the links below:


Oscillator out of range

While it is the "physics package" (the tube with the rubidium magic inside) that determines the ultimate frequency (6834683612 Hz, to be precise) it is not the physics package that generates this frequency, but rather another oscillator (or oscillators) that produce energy at that 6.834682612 GHz frequency, inject it into the cavity with the rubidium lamp and detect a slight change in intensity when it crosses the atomic resonance.

In this unit, there is a crystal oscillator that does this, using digital voodoo to produce that magic 6.834682612 GHz signal to divine the hyperfine transition.Β  This oscillator is "ovenized" - which is to say, the crystal and some of the critical components are under a piece of insulating foam, and attached to the crystal itself is a piece of ceramic semiconductor material - a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) thermistor - that acts as a heater:Β  When power is applied, it produces heat - but when it gets to a certain temperature the resistance increases, reducing the current consumption and the thermal input and the temperature eventually stabilizes.

Because we have the rubidium cell itself to determine our "exact" frequency, this oven and crystal oscillator need only be "somewhat" stable intrinsically:Β  It's enough simply to have it "not drift very much" with temperature as small amounts of frequency change can be compensated, so neither the crystal oven - or the crystal contained within - need to be "exact".

Fig 3:
The FE-5680A itself, in the lid of the
case of the 1590 box to provide heat-
sinking.Β  As you can see, I've had this
unit open before!
Click on the image for a larger version.
What is required is that this oscillator - which is "pullable" (that is, its precise frequency is tuned electronically) must be capable of covering the exact frequency required in its tuning range:Β  If this can't happen, it cannot be "locked" to the comparison circuitry of the rubidium cell.

The give-away was that as the unit warmed up, it did lock, but only briefly:Β  After a brief moment, it suddenly unlocked as the crystal warmed up and drifted low in frequency, beyond the range of the electronic tuning.

Taking the unit apart I quickly spotted the crystal oscillator under the foam and powering it up again, I kept the foam in place and watched it lock - and then unlock again:Β  Lifting the foam, I touched the hot crystal with my finger to draw heat away and the unit briefly re-locked.Β  Monitoring with a test set, I adjusted the variable capacitor next to the crystal and quickly found the point of minimum capacitance (highest frequency) and after replacing the foam, the unit re-locked - and stayed in lock.

Bringing it up to frequency

This particular '5680A is probably about 25 years old - having been a pull from service (likely at a cell phone site) and eventually finding its way onto EvilBay as surplus electronics.Β  Since I've owned it, it's also seen other service - having been used twice in in ground stations used for geostationary satellite service as a stable frequency reference, adding another 3-4 years to its "on" time.

As quartz crystals age, they inevitably change frequency:Β  In general, they tend to drift upwards if they are overdriven and slowly shed material - but this practice is pretty rare these days, so they seem to tend to drift downwards in frequency with normal aging of the crystal and nano-scale changes in the lattice that continue after the quartz is grown and cut:Β  Operating at elevated temperature - as in an oven - tends to accelerate this effect.

By adjusting the trimmer capacitor and noting the instantaneous frequency (e.g. adjusting it mechanically before the slower electronic tuning could take effect) I could see that I was right at the ragged edge of being able to net the crystal oscillator's tuning range with the variable capacitor at its extreme low end, so I needed to raise the natural frequency a bit more.

If you need to lower a crystal's frequency, you have several options:

  • Place an inductor in series with the crystal.Β  This will lower the crystal's in-circuit frequency of operation, but since doing so generally involves physically breaking an electrical connection to insert a component, this is can be rather awkward to do.
Fig 4:
The tip of the screwdriver pointing at the added 2.2uH
surface-mount inductor:Β  It's the black-ish component
at sort of a diagonal angle, wired across the two
crystal leads.
Click on the image for a larger version.
  • Place a capacitor across the crystal.Β  Adding a few 10s of pF of extra capacitance can lower a crystal's frequency by several 10s or hundreds of ppm (parts-per million), depending on the nature of the crystal and the circuit.

Since the electrical "opposite" of a capacitor is an inductor, the above can be reversed if you need to raise the frequency of a crystal:

  • Insert a capacitor in series with the crystal.Β  This is a very common way to adjust a crystal's frequency - and it may be how this oscillator was constructed.Β  As with the inductor, adding this component - where none existed - would involve breaking a connection to insert the device - not particularly convenient to do.
  • Place an inductor across the crystal.Β  Typically the inductance required to have an effect will have an impedance of hundreds of ohms at the operating frequency, but this - like the addition of a capacitor across a crystal to lower the frequency - is easier to do since we don't have to cut any circuit board traces.
With either method of tweaking the resonance of the oscillator circuit, you can only go so far:Β  Adding reactance in series or parallel will eventually swamp the crystal itself, potentially making it unreliable in its oscillation - and if that doesn't happen, the "Q" is diminished, potentially reducing the quality of the signal produce and furthermore, taking this to an extreme can reduce the stability overall as it starts to become more temperature sensitive with the added capacitor/inductor than just the crystal, alone.

In theory, I could have placed a smaller fixed capacitor in series with the trimmer capacitorΒ  - or used a lower-value capacitor - but I chose, instead, to install a fixed-value surface-mount inductor in parallel with the crystal as it would not require cutting any traces.Β  Prior to doing this I checked to see if there was any circuit voltage across the crystal, but there was none:Β  Had I seen voltage, adding an inductor would have shorted it out and likely caused the oscillator to stop working and I would have either reconsidered adding a series capacitor somewhere or, more likely I would have placed a large-value (1000pF or larger) capacitor in series with the inductor to block the DC.

"Swagging" it, I put a 2.2uH 0805 surface-mount inductor across the crystal and powered up the '5680A and after a 2-3 minute warm-up time, it locked.Β Β  After it had warmed up for about 8 minutes I briefly interrupted the power and while it worked to re-establish lock I saw the frequency swing nearly 100 Hz below and above the target indicating that it was now more less in the center if its electronic tuning range indicating success!Β  As can be seen from Figure 4, there is likely enough room to have used a small, molded through-hole inductor instead of a surface-mount device.
Fig 5:
The crystal is under the round disk (the PTC
heater) near the top of the picture and the
adjustment capacitor is to the right of the
crystal.
Click on the image for a larger version.

With a bit of power-cycling and observing the frequency swing while the oscillator was hot, I was able to observing the electronic tuning range and in so-doing, increase the capacitance of the trimmer capacitor very slightly from minimum indicating that I now had at least a little bit of extra adjustment room - but not a lot.Β  Since this worked the first time I didn't try a lower value of inductance (say, 1uH) to further-raise the oscillator frequency, leaving well-enough alone.

Buttoning everything back up and putting it back in its case, everything still worked (always gratifying!) and I let the unit "burn in" for a few hours.

Comparing it to my HP Z8530 GPS Disciplined oscillator via the oscilloscope (see Figure 2) it took about 20 minutes for the phase to "slide" one entire cycle (360 degrees) indicating that the two 10 MHz signal sources are within better than 10E-10 of each other - not too bad for a device that was last adjusted over a decade ago and as seen about 15000 operational hours since!
Β 
* * *
Β 
Follow-up:Β  A few weeks after this was originally posted I had this rubidium reference with me at the Eclipse event as a "hot standby", its frequency being compared to the LPRO-101 - which was the active, on-the-air unit - using an oscilloscope.Β  This (repaired) unit fired up and locked within 5 minutes at the cool (45F/7C) ambient temperature and remained stable for the several hours that it was powered up.

* * * * *
Β 
This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com
Β 
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Β 

Exploring the NDK 9200Q7 10 MHz OCXO (Oven-controlled Crystal Oscillator)

By: KA7OEI
29 December 2022 at 00:22

Figure 1:
The NDK 9200Q7 OCXO.Β  This unit, pulled from
used equipment, is slightly "shop-worn" but still
serviceable.Β  The multi-turn tuning potentiometer
is accessible via the hole at the lower-left.
Click on the image for a larger version
The NDK 9200Q7 (pictured) is an OCXO (Oven-Controlled Crystal Oscillator) that occasionally appears on EvilBay or surplus sites.Β  While not quite as good a performer as the Isotemp 134-10 (see the 17 October, 2017 Blog entry, "A 10 MHz OCXO" - Link) it's been used for a few projects requiring good frequency stability, including:

  • The 146.620 Simulcast repeater system.Β  One of these is used at each transmitter site, which are held at 4 Hz apart to eliminated "standing nulls" - and they have stayed put in frequency for over a decade. (This system is described in a series of previous blog entries starting withΒ  "Two Repeaters, One System - Part 1" - Link).
  • 10 GHz transverter frequency reference.Β  One of the local amateurs used one of these units to hold his 10 GHz frequency stable and it did so fairly well, easily keeping it within aΒ  hundred Hz or so of other stations:Β  This was good enough to allow him to be easily found and tuned in, even when signals were weak.

At least some of these units were pulled from scrapped VSAT (Very Small Aperture SATellite) terminals so they were designed for both stability and the ability to be electronically tuned to "dial in" the frequency precisely.

Testing and experience shows that given 10-15 minutes to thermally stabilize, these units are perfectly capable of holding the frequency to better than 1 part in 108 - or about 1 Hz at 100 MHz - and since any of these units that you are likely to find about are likely to be 25-30 years old, the intrinsic aging of the quartz crystal itself is going to be well along its asymptotic curve to zero.

Figure 2:
The bottom of the OCXO, annotated to show the various
connections.
Click on the image for a larger version.

Using this device

In its original application, this device was powered from a 12-15 volt supply, but if you were to apply power and give it 5-15 minutes to warm up, you would probably be disappointed in its accuracy as it would not have any sort of external tuning input to get it anywhere close to its intended frequency.

Because of the need for it to be electrically tuned, this device is actually a VCXO (Voltage-Controlled Crystal Oscillator) as well and as such, it has a "Tune" pin, identified in Figure 2.Β  Nominally, the tuning voltage was probably between 0 and 10 volts, but unless a voltage is applied, this pin will naturally drift close to zero voltage, the result being that at 10 MHz, it may be a dozen or two Hz low in frequency.

Adding a resistor

The easiest "fix" for this - to make it operate "stand-alone" - is to apply a voltage on the pin.Β  If your plans include locking this to an external source - such as making your own GPSDO (GPS Disciplined Oscillator) then one simply need apply this tuning voltage from a DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter) or filtered PWM output, but if you wish to use this oscillator in a stand-alone configuration - or even as an externally-tuned oscillator, a bit of modification is in order.

Figure 3:
This shows the 10k resistor added between the internal 5 volt
source and the "TUNE" pin to allow "standalone" operation.
Click on the image for a larger version.
The OCXO may be disassembled easily by removing the small screw on each side and carefully un-sticking the circuit board from the insulation inside.Β  Once this is done, you'll see that there are two boards:Β  The one on the top is part of the control board for the heater/oven while the bottom houses some of the oscillator components.

Contained within the OCXO is a 78L05 five-volt regulator which is used to provide a voltage reference for the oven and also likely used as a stable source of power for the oscillator - and we can use this to our advantage rather than need to regulate an external source which, itself, is going to be prone to thermal changes.

Figure 3 shows the addition of a single 10k resistor on the top board, connecting the "TUNE" pin to the output of this 5 volt regulator.Β  By adding this resistor, the TUNE pin allows one to use this OCXO in a "standalone" configuration with no connection to the "TUNE" pin as it is is automatically biased to a temperature-stable (after warm-up) internal voltage reference and can then be used as-is as a good 10 MHz reference, using the onboard multi-turn potentiometer to precisely set the frequency of operation.

Figure 4:
More pictures from inside the OCXO
Click on the image for a larger version.
Another advantage of adding the internal 10k resistor is that it's easy to reduce the TUNE sensitivity from an external voltage:Β  This value isn't critical, with anything from 1k to 100k likely being usable.Β  Testing shows that by itself, the oscillator is quite table and varying the TUNE voltage will adjust it by well over 10 Hz above and below 10 MHz.

The inclusion of the 10k internal resistor may also be of benefit.Β  In many cases, having a much narrower electronic tuning range than this will suffice so a resistor of 100k (or greater) can be used in series with the TUNE pin, between it and an external tuning voltage, acting as a voltage divider.Β  Doing this will reduce the tuning range and it can also improve overall stability since much of the tuning voltage will be based on the oscillator's already-stable 5 volt internal source.Β  The stability of the OCXO itself is such that even with a 10-ish:1 reduced tuning range due to a series 100k resistor, there is still far more external adjustment range than really necessary to tune the OCXO and handle a wide range of external temperatures.

The actual value of the added internal resistor is unimportant and could be selected for the desired tuning/voltage ratio based on the external series tuning resistor and the impedance of the tuning voltage.

When reassembling the OCXO, take care that the insulation inside the can is as it was at the time of disassembly to maximize thermal stability and, of course, be sure that the hole in the can lines up with the multi-turn potentiometer!

Operating conditions

Figure 5:
Even more pictures from inside the OCXO.
Click on the image for a larger version.
The "official" specifications of this OCXO are unknown, but long-term use has shown that it will operate nicely from 12-15 volts - and it will even operate from a 10 volt supply, although the reduced heater power at 10 volts causes warm-up to take longer and there may not be sufficient thermal input for the oven to maintain temperature at extremely low (<15F, <-9C) temperatures unless extra insulation is added (e.g. foam around the metal case.)

It is recommended that if one uses it stand-alone, the voltage source for this device be regulated:Β  While the on-board 5 volt regulator provides a stable reference without regard to the supply voltage, the amount of thermal input from the oven will change with voltage:Β  More power and faster heating at higher voltage.Β  While you might think that this wouldn't affect a closed-loop system, it actually does owing to internal thermal resistance and the fact that due to loss to the environment, there will always be a thermal gradient between the heater, the temperature-sensitive circuitry, and the outside world - and changing the operating voltage and thus the amount of heater power will subtly affect the frequency.

Finally, this oscillator - like any quartz crystal oscillator that you are likely to find - is slightly affected by gravity:Β  Changing orientation (e.g. turning sideways, upside-down, etc.) of this oscillator affects its absolute frequency by a few parts in 10E-8, so if you are interested in the absolute accuracy and stability, it's best to do the fine-tuning adjustment with it oriented in the same way that it will be used and keep it in that orientation.

* * * * * * * * *

This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com

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