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Ham Radio Tech: RF Safety—In the Field

20 September 2024 at 13:22

This is the second installment of a two-part article about RF when you are operating “in the field,” meaning away from a fixed station.

For example, when you are operating a portable station for Parks On The Air (POTA), that’s considered “in the field” whether you are in an actual field or a parking lot or not even outside. Field Day certainly qualifies in most cases. In both parts of this article, the RF from your transmitted signal is what we’re concerned with.

Mechanical Concerns

We can start with some non-RF considerations that are certainly related to antennas, but not the radiated RF.

Most antennas used in the field are either ground-mounted or lower in height than at a fixed station. This, combined with the likelihood of their being in a public space, presents a variety of hazards to passers-by and other visitors. Your goal is to keep people from walking into, tripping over, touching, or otherwise getting too close to the antennas and feed lines.

The photo below shows a typical portable station with a table, tarp, and temporary antenna about 20 feet away in the background.

ham radio operator at a station under a tent
Carl, AE0CJ, and I operated from the grounds of Missouri’s first capitol to celebrate the state’s bicentennial. Note that the tripod-mounted antenna takes advantage of the property fence to help keep other visitors from getting too close. Below is another photo of the antenna. (Image/Ward Silver, NØAX)
portable antenna set up in a backyard
(Image/Ward Silver, NØAX)

You can see the yellow rope placed around the antenna as a warning not to get too close. Plastic fence posts were used to hold the rope. Yellow caution tape is inexpensive and even more visible. Remember that many parks prohibit sticking anything in the ground, even for safety. In such cases, orange traffic cones are a good compromise.

Feed lines and power cords present a tripping hazard to both visitors and operators. If allowed, a stake in the ground next to the cables with a bit of yellow caution tape marks their location and can secure the cables. I always tie or secure the cables to a table leg so that if something does happen, the equipment is not dragged off onto the ground. (Don’t ask me how I learned to do this…)

Finally, don’t install your antenna where it can come in contact with vegetation. The end of an antenna element can present fairly high RF voltages, even at 100 watts output. This is enough to heat up leaves to the point where they will catch fire or at least smolder. Starting a fire is a definite no-no! (Don’t ask me how I learned this, either…)

Choose Your Words Carefully

Before we go any further, I need to remind you that the word “radiation” when referring to our transmitted RF may be accurate, but it is not a word the public or facility staff are comfortable with. I am careful to keep things simple and speak of “radio signals” instead of “field strength” or “radiation.” If someone asks about risks, you could truthfully tell them they might get a slight shock if they touch the antenna while you are transmitting. (If you are using an amplifier, it might be harsher than “slight,” so consider the possibilities.) Then explain that is why you have taken steps to prevent anyone from accidentally coming in contact with the antenna.

This is also a reminder to read or re-read the paragraph on preventing RF burns in the first part of this article, “RF Management—In the Field.”

RF Field Strength

The primary concern of this article is the high RF field strength near an antenna. FCC rules require us to evaluate the RF exposure from our fixed station antennas. Portable stations don’t require the same level of scrutiny, but you can use the same methods to determine whether your portable antennas might present a hazard to you or the public with respect to the Maximum Permissible Exposure (MPE).

Uncontrolled vs. Controlled

The allowed exposure levels are different for two kinds of environments—controlled (or operational) and uncontrolled (or general public). For a fixed station at our home, for example, the antennas are on private property and access to them is limited by property boundaries, fences, etc. This implies that anyone in the vicinity of the antenna either knows it is present or is there with your permission and supervision.

This is a controlled environment, and the MPE levels are higher because it is assumed the person can either take steps to stay away from the antenna or avoid being close to the antenna when the station is transmitting.

Uncontrolled environments are different and assume someone near the antenna is not aware of what it is or that it is present. They may approach the antenna at any time and are not assumed to be under your supervision, nor can they manage their own exposure.

For example, a vehicle-mounted antenna on your car in a parking lot can be approached by anyone in the lot. This is why the MPE levels are lower for uncontrolled environments. It’s safest that you assume these limits apply when considering how to construct and use your station.

High-Q Antennas

Another factor to consider is how your antenna radiates a signal and whether the RF field strength near the antenna will be particularly strong. The antenna’s ratio of stored energy to radiated energy is a measure of the antenna’s Q. Q is also known as quality factor, and for components, measures the ratio of reactance which stores energy to resistance which dissipates energy.

Antennas that store a lot of energy in the near field (within a wavelength or two of the signal frequency) can build up a surprisingly high field strength for any given power. These are known as high-Q antennas.

A high-Q antenna usually has a very low radiation resistance, which represents the antenna’s ability to radiate power into its far field, which is what launches our signals. The low radiation resistance means the antenna has to store a lot of energy for our transmitter output power to be turned into radiated signal (or heating in antenna system losses).

Imagine our antenna as a balloon being inflated by a compressor that delivers a continuous flow of air—this is our transmitter. The antenna’s radiation resistance is represented by a hole in the balloon through which air leaks out to the outside world (i.e., our transmitted signal). The balloon inflates until the amount of air leaking through hole balances the compressor’s output. The smaller the hole (the lower the radiation resistance), the higher the pressure in the balloon must be (the near field strength) for the leaking air to equal the incoming air.

The relationship between stored energy and radiated power and Q is clearly presented in a February 2013 QST article, “Q and the Energy Stored Around Antennas,” by Kai Siwiak, KE4PT. In the article, he describes and illustrates these important relationships and gives examples for real-world antennas.

For example, dipole antennas have a Q ranging from around 7 to 20, while small HF transmitting loops (a.k.a., a “magnetic” loop) can have a Q as high as 1,000. Antennas that are physically small compared to the transmitted signal wavelength generally have low radiation resistances and are high-Q. 

You can tell if you have a high-Q antenna if the SWR bandwidth of the antenna is low compared to a full-size antenna. Along with the small loops, this includes popular antennas like loaded whips that are often mounted near the ground.

Tune the antenna for an SWR of 1:1 at the operating frequency. Then find the two frequencies at which SWR increases to 2.6, FU and FL. Divide the square root of FU x FL by the SWR bandwidth, FU – FL, and that will give you Q.

For example, if SWR equals 2.6 at 14.275 and 14.295 MHz, Q = 714. That’s a high-Q antenna!

Bear in mind that losses in the feed line will make SWR look a little better at the meter than it is at the antenna terminals, so the actual SWR bandwidth is smaller and Q is higher.

How Safe is Safe?

Like most questions about antenna systems, the answer always seems to begin with “It depends…” So do answers about minimum safe distances for transmitting antennas.

The answer depends on operating frequency, antenna Q, and transmitter output power. Since every portable setup is a little (or a lot) different, you can’t be modeling or making complex calculations all the time.

To help amateurs deal with this complexity, the ARRL provides an online RF exposure calculator.

The following is a calculation for a 100-watt, 14 MHz station using unprocessed SSB with a 20% operating duty cycle and a ground-plane antenna with 1 dBi of gain.

ARRL RF Calculator landing page screen shot
(Image/ARRL.com)
ARRL RF Calculator Screenshot
(Image/ARRL.com)

Note that it’s safe to get pretty close to the antenna. However, if I turn on speech processing or operate more aggressively, such as during a contest or POTA activation, the minimum distance will increase. Similarly, using a mode like FT8, which has a 50% duty cycle of full power on periods, will increase minimum distances still further.

This short table is an excerpt from Table 5.7 of RF Exposure and You (see this article’s conclusion for how to obtain that book) that provides typical gains for some popular portable antennas. For a vertical dipole or end-fed half-wave antenna, use the half-wavelength dipole gain. For a “hex” beam, use the two-element Yagi gain. Loaded whips are less efficient than a full-size vertical, so that antenna’s safe distances are a conservative estimate for the whip.

Typical Antenna Gains in Free Space (dBi)

  • Quarter-wave ground plane – 1.0
  • Half-wavelength dipole – 2.15
  • 2-element Yagi – 6.0

For the special case of a small HF transmitting loop, the minimum distances are larger, due to the higher stored energy of this very high-Q antenna. Siwiak calculates these minimum safe distances in his May 2017 QST Technical Correspondence item, “RF Exposure Compliance Distances for Transmitting Loops, and Transmitting Loop Current.” 

From that article, for a one-meter-diameter loop with five watts of continuous transmit power on the 40–10 meter bands, the minimum safe distance for the uncontrolled environment is 1.7 meters (5.6 feet). This increases to 2.1 meters (6.9 feet) at 10 watts output power. Table 17 from the FCC OET Bulletin 65B shows the safe uncontrolled distances for 150 watts increasing from 2.8 meters (9.2 feet) on the 40 meter band to 4.2 meters (13.8 feet) on 10 meters. 

Using an amplifier, such as for a special event or contest, with a small loop increases the minimum distances on 40 through 10 meters to 17.4 feet to 42.4 feet, respectively. (A two-meter-diameter loop on 80 meters requires 21.6 feet of separation at full power.) 

See Siwiak’s March 2012 QST Technical Correspondence article, “An Antenna Idea for Antenna-Restricted Communities” for more information.

Please Think About RF Safety

It’s easy to overlook these concerns in the “heat of battle” when you are just trying to get a station put together and on the air. Hopefully, this article will encourage you to consider antenna placement in the field. I see far too many pictures of portable setups where the antenna is a few feet away from a 100-watt transceiver. There are even photos of “mag loops” sitting right on a picnic table next to the operator! Don’t do that.

You can learn a lot more on the ARRL’s RF Exposure website. The excellent text reference RF Exposure and You by the ARRL’s Ed Hare, W1RFI, is downloadable at no cost as a PDF book. It has many helpful tables and examples.

I don’t think RF exposure is something we should be afraid of, but neither should we be careless in how we treat it.

The post Ham Radio Tech: RF Safety—In the Field appeared first on OnAllBands.

Ham Radio Tech: RF Management–In the Field

13 September 2024 at 13:56

This is the first of a two-part article about RF when you are operating “in the field,” meaning away from a fixed station.

For example, when you are operating a portable station for Parks On The Air (POTA), that’s considered “in the field” whether you are in an actual field or a parking lot or not even outside. Field Day certainly qualifies in most cases.

Because these are temporary situations, you have to apply a different set of techniques to get everything working and keep it working.

“RF Management”–What Does That Mean?

In both parts of this article, I’ll consider the RF to be from your transmitted signal. There is certainly RF floating around from other signals, and some might be very strong, but let’s deal with your transmitted signal here.

What does the “management” part mean, though?

I have been using the term to include all of the various techniques that are used to keep our RF where it belongs and out of where it doesn’t belong. That includes configuring your station so that it performs correctly when you are transmitting. So, we are going “manage” how your station performs when the strong RF is present.

As you’ll see, that covers a surprisingly wide range of concerns.

Where Is the RF? 

Better to ask, Where isn’t the RF? That is really a better question than the first part.

We tend to think of our station as “over here” and the antenna radiating RF as “over there,” so the RF just flies away in the direction of other stations. Well, not quite. You, the operator, and your station are very, very close to where that strong RF is launched, at least electrically.

Let’s ask a question: What is the wavelength of a 40 meter signal?

Not a trick question! It’s about 40 meters, which is about 132 feet. More specifically, a 7.15 MHz signal has a wavelength of about 42 meters, which is about 137 feet.

Note that only two of the HF bands contain the wavelength by which they’re known: 160 meters at 1.875 MHz and 80 meters at 3.75 MHz.

If your 40 meter antenna is closer to you than about 1/2 wavelength, or 60-something feet, you’re right in the near field of the antenna! It takes another 100 feet or more to get you out of the strong RF field.

The resulting strength of your signal is going to be STRONG!

rf grounding diagram for a ham radio station
In your station, fixed or portable, everything acts as an antenna! (Graphic from Grounding & Bonding for the Radio Amateur, 2nd Edition, courtesy of the ARRL)

As a result, RF is going to be picked up by just about every bit of conductive material within 100 feet or more of the antenna. Pro tip—you are conductive as well.

Everything in your station—everything—is going to have RF voltage and RF current on it. Unless you are operating in a metal shipping container, you might as well figure out how to deal with RF.

Let’s start with your station equipment.

RF and the Equipment Table—Bonding

Take a look at your typical portable setup. There will be a radio, power supply, maybe an antenna tuner, a laptop or tablet for logging and digital modes, headphones or other audio gear, and a gadget or two. All of these are connected together with short antennas…er…wires and cables.

If you just throw everything on the table and hook it all up, there are lots of paths for RF to follow. Some might be low impedance so the RF current is high, and some might be high impedance so the RF voltage is high. The end of any unconnected wire or cable will be a high impedance point and that’s where you get an “RF burn”—on microphones, keys, and isolated metal boxes. You never forget an RF burn on your lips from touching a “hot” metal microphone!

These aren’t particularly hazardous, but they are obnoxious!

Even more obnoxious is equipment misbehaving when you press the key or mike switch. Maybe an automatic tuner decides to suddenly re-tune, a computer keyboard freezes up, or a radio changes a setting. This is caused by RF current getting into (or out of) something it shouldn’t. And what causes RF current to flow? RF voltage! More specifically, a difference of RF voltage between pieces of equipment.

If you can minimize the difference in voltage between pieces of equipment, you will also minimize RF current flowing between them along connecting cables.

That’s what bonding does for you.

If you look up “bonding” in an electrical dictionary, you’ll find that it is “a connection between two points to keep them at the same potential or voltage.” That’s all—no fancy implications or calculations. You just want to keep everything on the equipment table at the same voltage, and you do that by bonding them together with heavy wires or straps. The wires and straps should be short so they don’t have an appreciable impedance of their own.

In a portable setup, the easiest way to bond everything is to connect all of the equipment directly together. Have an assortment of jumper wires (#12-16 is good) or straps (flat tinned braid works well) that connect to screws on the metal enclosures. Powerpole connectors on the wires allow the equipment to be bonded however you arrange it. I recommend using green wire insulation and connector bodies, signifying a ground connection.

Another option is to put some aluminum foil under all the equipment and connect the enclosures to it with heavy test clip leads (#18 or heavier). The metal surface helps equalize voltage.

This is a great addition to any go-kit and has saved Field Day for me more than once.

The foil weighs hardly anything, so you can even use it for Summits On The Air (SOTA) stations carried in your pack. When you’re done, wad it up and recycle it. The foil surface should be big enough to cover a strip under all your equipment. I find a three-to-four-foot strip is more than adequate.

RF and the Station Wiring

What about all those cables connecting everything together? There are three basic techniques that will reduce or eliminate most RF problems:

  1. Use the shortest cables you can. One-foot USB and audio cables are available. 
  2. Coil up excess cable in a figure-8 to minimize its inductance and the RF voltage it will pick up.
  3. Use shielded cables for everything and avoid plastic, unshielded boxes for equipment enclosures.
  4. Have Type/Mix 31 (preferred) or 43 ferrite clamp-on cores available.

What is a figure-8 winding? This is a handy technique for all kinds of cable, including coax feed lines, power cables, and extension cords. The basic idea is illustrated in the last half of this YouTube video on cable winding for video work. If you practice these techniques, you’ll avoid creating a spiral twist that creates kinks. For small cables, you can wind the figure-8, then fold the two halves together. Winding half the turns in opposite directions causes a magnetic field to create equal-but-opposite voltages in the coil, minimizing RF pickup.

If you use the aluminum foil approach or have a metal table, lay the cables, including the excess length all coiled up, on the foil. That minimizes the length of cable exposed to the RF fields.

If you do need the ferrite cores, place them on the affected cable as close to the equipment experiencing interference as possible. Wind several turns of the cable onto the core before snapping it shut. Be sure both surfaces of the core are flat against each other. This creates an impedance that blocks the RF current where it is getting into the equipment.

If you’re not sure what mix makes up a “mystery core,” it’s worth buying a half dozen, then labeling or color coding them as in this photo of a ferrite core kit. The toroids can be used to wind multiple turns of coax and power cords. Snap-ons can be labeled with a permanent marker or colored tape.

ferrite chokes for a wire
(Image/DX Engineering)

A combination approach that accomplishes bonding and keeps all of your equipment together is a portable rack. These have metal shelves and rails with an overall plastic enclosure. They’re usually available as portable audio equipment racks.

You can install all of your portable equipment more or less permanently in one of these racks. This lets you bond everything, use short cables, and debug all of the wiring so that when you take the rack of gear to the field, you know it will work with a minimum amount of setup.

True, a rack is heavier and not suitable for backpacking, but for many portable vehicle-based scenarios, it will be just fine.

These photos are from my Field Day operation in 2023 showing an IC-7000 and an FT-7900 in a standard portable audio rack. All of the equipment is bonded to the metal rack shelf. The operating table is my great-Aunt Ruth’s!

front view of a portable ham radio station on a tabletop
(Image/Ward Silver, NØAX)
rear view of a portable ham radio station on a tabletop
(Image/Ward Silver, NØAX)

Despite your best efforts—and every field setup is different—you may find that transmitting on a particular band “lights up” the station equipment (or the operator). You might see RF interference to equipment, or a “hot spot” may cause a tingle (or more!) on some frequencies.

In this case, use a 1/4-wavelength piece of wire (calculate as 470/f in MHz–length is not critical) attached to the affected equipment on one end with an alligator clip and left open on the other. Insulate the open end.

This detuning wire will create a low-impedance point, lowering RF voltage where the wire is attached. The open end may have high voltages on it, so insulate it and don’t put it where you might touch it or step on it with bare feet! (Don’t ask me how I learned this…) Have one detuning wire for each band you plan on using.

RF on the Antenna System

Other than on the antennas themselves, as discussed earlier, RF is going to be picked up by every conductor in your station, including by the antenna feed lines as common-mode current. This is a particular challenge in mobile operation since the vehicle body is part of the antenna. The RF picked up by the feed line will flow into your station and cause problems unless you take steps to block it:

  1. Use a common-mode choke (ferrite or wound-coax) where the feed line attaches to station equipment.
  2. Add one or more chokes along the feed line between the station and antenna. If you are using an end-fed half-wave (EFHW) antenna, a choke at the impedance transformer may affect the antenna’s SWR. Check the antenna manual for guidance.
  3. If you are using a vertical antenna, such as a whip with a base-loading coil close to the ground, place some chicken wire or hardware cloth under the antenna to act as a ground plane. Route the feed line underneath it to maximize the shielding effect.
  4. If your antenna is mounted on a vehicle, bond the antenna mount to the body with a heavy wire as close to the mount as possible. This helps keep the feed line from becoming part of the antenna.
  5. In a vehicle, operate with the doors closed to keep RF on the outer surfaces. A ferrite choke where a feed line enters the vehicle is also helpful.

Finally, what about a ground connection to the Earth itself?

Generally, you don’t need one! Most generators do not require a ground rod or connection—check the manual.

A vertical antenna will require radials or a ground screen as in item three above but does not need a direct connection to the soil. Horizontally polarized antennas like dipoles, most EFHWs, and double-whips will be de-tuned by a ground connection. In many public places, it is not allowed to drive stakes or rods into the ground.

What about lightning protection?

In a portable or mobile setup, the best advice during storms is to lower the antennas to the ground, disconnect the feed line and secure it at least six feet from the station. There is little you can do to protect your equipment from a lightning strike in the field. Take shelter yourself! If you’re in a vehicle and lightning is striking nearby, close the doors and try not to touch any metal until the storm passes.

***

This article touched on some of the important aspects of dealing with the strong RF you’ll encounter when operating a portable station. In the next article, I’ll discuss some concerns for RF safety in these setups, an often-overlooked aspect of setting up away from home.

The post Ham Radio Tech: RF Management–In the Field appeared first on OnAllBands.

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