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Ham Radio Tech: RF Ground—The Un-Ground

29 July 2024 at 14:16

When it comes to ham radio, there are grounds…and then there are grounds.

Here are three types we typically find with radio systems:

  1. Safety ground
  2. Lightning ground
  3. RF ground

Safety grounds protect you from a shock hazard. The ground wire in your AC wall outlet is connected to a grounding rod driven into the earth by way of the entry panel. This provides a low-resistance path to dissipate any fault current safely.

Lightning/surge protection grounding works by routing voltage surges and spikes away from protected electrical devices. Devices such as lightning arresters are often installed on feed lines entering your shack and will direct surges to a ground rod.

Understanding RF Ground

RF ground is not the same thing as an electrical or lightning ground. The term is a misnomer—it really isn’t a ground at all. You know the dipole antenna is a half-wave long—two quarter-wave sections. If you have a quarter wave vertical antenna, it’s a monopole, which is actually half of a dipole. The RF ground makes up the other half of the dipole—you can provide this second half by adding radials to the antenna, or just a single elevated counterpoise wire that’s about a quarter wave long.

In a typical HF mobile setup, the vehicle is capacitively coupled to the ground, so the antenna is a cross between a lopsided vertical dipole—the whip being one side and the car body on the other—and a vertical with an elevated radial system.

Mobile Radios

Mobile installations present significantly more challenges than simply adding radials to your yard. The other half of the dipole is a random vehicle, a large chunk of metal of various sizes and configurations serving as a moving ground plane for your vertical antenna. The ground plane provides for return currents to the antenna and is an integral part of the vehicle antenna circuit.

One way to think about a ground plane is that it acts as a “mirror” for the active vertical element. As long as a mirror is big enough, you’ll hear your reflected signal from a distance. It doesn’t really matter if the mirror is circular, rectangular, or square. 

If the vehicle ground plane is lossy (which will happen to some extent), the performance of your antenna will suffer due to reduced current flow. Ground plane losses only add to existing losses from coil-loaded, physically shortened antennas typical of most mobile HF stations. It’s important to do what you can to minimize ground losses by improving the ground plane. Decreasing ground losses by just one ohm can make a significant increase in ERP (effective radiated power).

VHF/UHF mobile antennas have less ground losses if properly installed since their other half (vehicle ground plane) is sufficiently large for these frequencies

Bond, Frames Bond

Using the mirror analogy, a car is more like a collection of reflective tiles rather than a one-piece rectangular mirror hanging on the wall. Making the car work as a good signal reflector requires bonding.

Bonding is making low-impedance connections among the various conductive parts of your vehicle. The low impedance part is in the form of a conductive strap, such as a tinned braid, that is solidly attached between frame and body parts of the vehicle. Remember, the goal is to electrically join these surfaces into a single massive ground plane under the antenna and to improve the conductivity at RF frequencies. For larger gaps, one-inch-wide braid is a better solution, but keep it as short as possible. This helps it provide a low impedance connection.

For example, by using tinned braid you can electrically bond your exhaust pipe to the vehicle frame at several points along its length. Attach the braid to the pipe using ring clamps, screws with star washers, and soldered ring connectors to make a good connection to the car body or frame.

DX Engineering has a complete kit for exhaust bonding (below).

exhaust clamp and ground braid bonding strap kit dxe-egk-250_xl
An exhaust pipe directly bolted to the engine can be excited just like an antenna, radiating pulsing noise. An exhaust grounding system, like this kit from DX Engineering, can help eliminate noise from your mobile installation. (Image/DX Engineering)

Tinned braid is also suitable for bonding hood and trunk lids as well for enhanced ground plane performance. The hinges of trunks and hoods may not provide sufficient electrical connectivity for an effective ground plane. On pickup trucks, you can improve the ground plane by bonding its bed to the cab with braid beneath the truck using existing bolts and connection points. 

Important! When installing your antenna, be sure that the antenna mount provides solid continuity between the antenna ground side/coaxial shield and your newly bonded ground plane. Permanently mounted antennas using bolts and washers are usually best for electrical continuity, as long as they are mounted to a portion of the vehicle that’s part of the overall ground plane.

Using magnetic-mounted HF antennas will often result in poor grounding continuity for the antenna. At the very least, provide an additional ground braid for mag-mounts. Also, install your antenna as high as possible on the vehicle, with as much metal under the antenna as possible.

When improving a ground system, the main benefit by far is for transmitting. However, an improved ground plane with reduced losses helps to boost the received signal strength, thus improving the signal-to-noise ratio in your receiver.

Down to Earth

Moving from a rolling to a stationary RF ground plane, does efficiency increase or decrease with the number of wire radials?

Hams usually agree more radials on the ground are better, and it’s better to have more short radials than a few long ones. There has been a lot of debate about the extent of a radial system that might be needed. Based on a 1937 study, the FCC has suggested that a radial system consisting of 120 radials, each around 0.5 wavelengths long, would make an almost perfect ground system providing near 0 dB power loss at a low angle of radiation and a feed impedance of 35 ohms. It became the magic number for radial systems. However, such a radial system is impractical for most of us, especially on 80 and 160 meters.

dx engineering radial plate with radial wire installed
The patented DX Engineering Stainless Steel Radial Plate with 60 pre-drilled holes provides a neat and effective way to connect those essential radial wires and the coax to your vertical antenna. (Image/OnAllBands)

Sometimes you have to make a size compromise. The ARRL Antenna Handbook provides some figures for alternative configurations:

  • 16 radials of 0.1 λ gives a feed impedance of 52 Ω and a power loss of 3 dB
  • 36 radials of 0.15 λ gives a feed impedance of 43 Ω and a power loss of 1.5 dB
  • 60 radials of 0.2 λ gives a feed impedance of 40 Ω and a power loss of 1 dB

As we move toward 60 radials, diminishing returns kick in and the improvement gets progressively smaller. You’ll need to consider the cost of wire and the effort involved when deciding how far you’ll go.

There are other factors to consider, including local earth conductivity. The better the earth’s conductivity in a given region, the better the earth connection will be. It’s difficult to get a sufficiently good antenna RF ground plane on a rocky base. However, areas with moist soil provide a much better ground system. One of the best environments for a good ground connection is a salt marsh. This 1975 FCC Ground Conductivity map provides information about conductivity by region throughout the U.S.

There have been long-running discussions about the effectiveness of a vertical with an elevated ground system compared to one using a large number of radials on the ground surface. NEC modeling has shown that an antenna with four elevated λ/4-radials under ideal conditions would be as efficient as one with 60 or more λ/4 ground-based radials. In reality, you’ll probably need a few more than four.

The Ground That Isn’t Grounded

It acts as a reflector. It doesn’t radiate RF energy; it mirrors and reflects the energy. It also has a second purpose of providing the return path for RF current in unbalanced antennas.

No ground rod is involved, just lots of metal directly under a vertical antenna.

The post Ham Radio Tech: RF Ground—The Un-Ground appeared first on OnAllBands.

Breaking Ground

By: TJ Campie
11 August 2018 at 14:53
With building permit in hand, it's finally time to get my vertical....vertical again! 

I started out the process by emailing the Building Official for the city with my plans and an outline of what I had planned to install, asking for guidance.  Since my antenna is MOSTLY quite small (diameter wise) you could judge that there is no permit required, but with the 40/10m counterpoise loop, it does exceed the diameter rule so the building office required me to get a permit.  They also wanted to see that my home owners included liability for the antenna (which most do), but after my $50 fee, I had my green slip in hand.  

After booking my 811 call - never dig without making sure you'll be away from utility lines - I waited until the authorized work start date rolled around and got to digging.  The GAP instructions call for an 18" wide hole, 3 feet deep.  I had flashbacks of digging this hole at the place in Wylie and I was nervous about it this go around. The soil here is 99% clay about 8" down so it gets really unpleasant to work in quite quickly. Luckily the ground was relatively dry so it was just a matter of scraping and evacuating the hole repeatedly until I hit the magic number.   


The instructions from GAP suggested to use a pipe with PVC pipe over it.  PVC does not bond to concrete so the idea is that you could pull the antenna out of the concrete for maintenance.  I did not try to do this at the last house since I didn't spend enough time thinking about how that worked.  I could not find any PVC at the normal stores that would fit over any mast material but the instructions did suggest cutting the pipe lengthwise to expand it over the mast.  This go around I decided to give it a shot.  Using a standard wood handsaw, I cut the slot down the side of the pipe and hammered it onto my mast (sorry no pictures).  I then wrapped the PVC in shipping plastic - you know the stretchy stuff they wrap furniture in - and got it situated in the hole.  5 bags of quick set concrete mix and she was set.  Then came the time to attempt to pull the mast out... It moved about 2 inches then there was no more movement.  I tried everything to get it to pull out of the concrete but it was not going to happen.  Its no loss, I just had to mount the antenna the same way I did at the last house: put the bracket near the ground, tilt the base into it and then slide it up the mast to the top.  Really not all that difficult having done it several times before.  Someday I'll figure out a way to get some more upward force on the mast to free it from the concrete but not this time.

I completed the installation by installing the 40/10m "radial" loop and spreader arms.  My measurements and planning almost worked the way I wanted.  I was far enough from the fence that the hoop didn't hit anything but my mast was just too short to get the hoop above the fence, and more importantly, above head level.  I can probably find a way to lash up another mast to get the additional elevation I'm after but this will do for now.
Looks a little wonky... guys were too tight!
The last step was to install an 8' ground rod bonded to the pool equipment ground (which in turn is bonded to the panel):


Is it the most elegant solution? No. But it should provide the protection I need.  My only hope is that it passes inspection!

Be looking for operating reports soon!  I'm on the air!



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