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Cobweb, Halo, and Hex: Ham Radio Antennas You Can Bend, Wrap, and Fold

21 April 2024 at 12:52

Space, the final frontier for antenna installations. The ham’s ongoing mission: to explore their shrinking lot sizes and seek out smaller antennas that will keep them on the air—ones that boldly perform with the fewest compromises.

There’s nothing that says you can’t bend or wrap antenna elements to make them more compact. Think of open folded dipoles or the end droop on a wire antenna when it’s a few feet too long. Keep in mind that making a dipole smaller by wrapping it back on itself reduces not only the size but affects bandwidth as well. Regardless, this might be a good tradeoff under the right circumstances.

Another advantage is that all the antennas mentioned here resemble an outdoor clothesline to some extent. They look like they belong in the backyard, perhaps making them more acceptable to a ham’s family and the neighbors. Just make sure they don’t hang wet shirts or socks on the wires since it will negatively affect SWR.

Hexbeam

A hexbeam, or hexagonal beam, is a type of directional antenna for amateur HF bands. The name comes from the hexagonal outer shape of the antenna—not curses put upon them by HOAs. Its design resembles a modified two-element Yagi-Uda antenna, consisting of a W-shaped dipole and a reflector but no directors. The finished design looks something like an upside-down umbrella.

Hexbeams consist of six arms of non-conductive materials, such as fiberglass or plastic pipes. Insulated wire is used for the elements. In the original design by Mike Traffie, N1HXA, there were two W-shaped elements. Steve Hunt, G3TXQ (SK), later modified the design. Hunt changed the dimensions and shape of the antenna elements, resulting in an antenna which retained the original W-shaped driver, but with a semicircular reflector.

The Hexbeam can be built as a single or multiband antenna to cover different frequency ranges. Popular combinations cover 20m, 15m, and 10m (3-band) and 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m, and 10m (5-band), like DX Engineering’s XB-5 Hexx Beam. There are also eight-band models on the market. The antenna elements for the lowest frequency band are located at the exterior of the antenna, with the higher frequency bands moving inward toward the center.

Driven elements are dipoles for each band. The spacing of each element is critical because the elements of a multiband hexbeam influence each other. If the elements are not parallel, antenna characteristics may change. The spacing between the ends of the driver wires are adjusted for the best compromise between gain performance and SWR. This spacing is maintained using an insulated cord spacer between the tips of the reflector and the driver.

A hexbeam has slightly less forward gain than a two-element Yagi (5 dBi or 3 dBd) depending on the band. It beats the Yagi with front-to-back ratio across the band, reaching peaks over 20 dB. The hexbeam is also broadbanded, with the SWR comfortably under 2:1 at the band edges. For a relatively small antenna, the hexbeam holds up well against the Yagi given its size, and far exceeds the performance of multiband mini beams.

Given all these advantages, there is one minor downside. There’s more work involved assembling all those wires and spreaders than there is working with aluminum tubes. I had some hands-on experience assembling one for a display at Hamvention—and this one was a scaled-down version to fit in the booth area. It just takes some time, patience, and reading the manual prior to assembly. Real hams do read the manual. It’s worth the effort. Editor’s note: The DX Engineering XB-5 Hexx Beam (below) has been designed with fewer parts for faster and easier assembly compared with competing models.

Catching Signals—The Cobweb

The cobweb was developed by G3TXQ. It was a variation of Steve Webb, G3TPW’s CobWebb antenna, consisting of concentric dipole element sections for each band that are bent into the shape of a square. The outer element is the largest and is tuned for the lowest frequency band. Elements for other bands are nested inside the larger outer loop. The feedpoints of all dipole elements are connected together and driven by a common transmission line.

The cobweb antenna is relatively small yet offers good overall performance. The below MFJ-1836H six-band version (20-6m) is easy to install in limited space, with a compact 9 x 9 footprint. It’s a lightweight structure with a low wind-loading cross-section, making it a robust antenna.

Gain is slightly lower compared to a traditional dipole (1-2 dB less peak gain), which is offset by the nearly omnidirectional pattern of the cobweb. There aren’t the deep pattern nulls off the ends you’ll see with a dipole. The bandwidth (>2:1 SWR) fully covers the 20, 17, and 12m bands but may require a tuner on parts of 10, 15, and 6m for full coverage. I’ve also noticed it has a low noise floor with less static than my other antennas.

Only one coaxial feedline is needed. To match the cobweb’s impedance of 12.5 ohms, it must be fed using a 4:1 matching transformer or balun to match it to a 50-ohm transceiver. A 1:1 balun is also needed to feed this antenna to prevent common mode currents and achieve optimal radiation. If a current balun is used, no additional choking on the coax is needed.

Cobwebs are typically fixed mounted antennas that don’t require an antenna rotator or a tall mast. You can expect reasonable performance at 10 feet, but 20 feet or more is recommended. If you want to include 30 and 40 meters, you’re in luck. The MFJ-1838 8-band version has a 12 x 12 footprint, or you can add a conversion kit to the six-band model.

Halo There

The halo antenna is commonly used for amateur radio operations. You’re probably familiar with the mobile and VHF/UHF versions. It’s a circular loop of wire that is bent into the shape of a halo or a doughnutwith a bite missing. The halo antenna is known for its omnidirectional radiation pattern, which means that it can transmit or receive signals equally well in all directions. This makes it ideal for applications where a wide coverage area is desired.

Overall, the halo antenna is a versatile and effective option for amateur radio operators looking for a compact and efficient antenna. Each half is about a quarter wavelength long and ends with a current node (zero current and peak voltage) at the break. Halos pick up less ignition noise from engines when mounted on vehicle roofs than whip antennas. They can also be stacked for additional gain and increased efficiency.

However, it’s a challenge to make a 33-foot-long folded dipole for 20 meters in a circular shape for HF use at home. But the circular shape is not necessary—a square version has almost the same properties. This antenna configuration is known as the Squalo (square and halo.) You can apply the same shape and configuration as done with the cobweb, adding additional bands. You want to add 10 meters? Make a 10-meter folded dipole and place it inside the square shape created by the 20-meter dipole.

The square halo is electrically similar to the cobweb in construction and size. If you compare the MFJ-1836 antenna to the Cushcraft ASQ-20, you’ll find both incorporate the half wave folded dipole(s) and a matching transformer. The Squalo maintains its square shape while the cobweb angles the wires to the transformer.

Tired of Your Plain Old Dipole?

The antenna world is full of dipole variations, and we’ve only looked at a few. If this article piqued your interest, take a look at the OnAllBands article, “Guide to Unusual Ham Radio Antennasfor a discussion of Moxon and Skeleton Slot antennas—close cousins of the halo and hexbeam.

The post Cobweb, Halo, and Hex: Ham Radio Antennas You Can Bend, Wrap, and Fold appeared first on OnAllBands.

BaMaKey TP-II (2)

11 April 2024 at 08:31

Ik wilde mijzelf een beetje belonen voor alle inspanning die ik heb gedaan om CW (morse code) te leren. Het feit dat je ‘het nu kunt’ is natuurlijk de echte beloning maar ik wilde ook iets fysieks. En ja, dan kom je al snel op een mooie paddle uit met je eigen callsign erin gegraveerd. In eerste instantie wilde ik graag de Begali Pearl maar deze is mij gewoon te duur. Dus is de keuze gevallen op de BaMaKey TP-II (2) van BaMaTech (Markus DL6YYM). Deze bestaat uit twee delen, de paddle en de basisplaat van staal. Beide klikken stevig aan elkaar door magneten. En natuurlijk in deze versie met mijn Call erin.

BaMaKey TP-III (3) van BaMaTech
BaMaKey TP-III (3) van BaMaTech
BaMaKey TP-III (3) van BaMaTech

De paddle voelt een stuk lichter, ook in het gebruik. De paddels zelf bewegen bijna zonder dat je het voelt. Dit mag voor mij iets zwaarder en kun je gelukkig instellen. Standaard staat het ingesteld op 12 gram en kan ingesteld worden tussen 10 en 35 gram. De contactafstand is klein maar ook dat mag van mij nog iets kleiner. Dus dat moet ik nog instellen en uitproberen wat voor mij het beste werkt. Wat vooral opvalt is hoe stevig het op het bureau staat. Het lijkt zichzelf vast te zuigen. Ondanks dat het lichter is dan de KENT TP1-B van mij, verschuift het gewoon niet. Iets dat de KENT wel doet. En natuurlijk zal dit per ondergrond verschillen maar voor nu werkt de BaMaKey echt super.

Ohja, en bovenaan deze pagina alle paddles en sleutels op een rijtje. Er ontbreekt er nog steeds een want die ligt ergens op zolder. Deze heb ik nog steeds niet teruggevonden.

Lees hier hoe het allemaal begon met CW

En hoe het verder ging bij: CWops CW Academy

Het bericht BaMaKey TP-II (2) verscheen eerst op PE2V.

My Weather Station on Apple Watch

By: richcasey
27 January 2024 at 16:05

Weather tracking has been a hobby of mine since childhood, and I’ve owned many weather stations over the years from Peet Brothers to Davis to now, happily, Ambient Weather.

One thing I’ve been looking for is a way to view my weather station stats on my Apple Watch. Thanks to a tip on a Weather Facebook group, I now have it! The myPWS app is working great.

In the first photo, the lower right temp is my weather station, while the upper right is my current location. Click on the lower right, and you see more scrollable info.

Apple Watch

myPWS scrollable display

Tech I Can’t Live Without: Tile

By: richcasey
23 September 2019 at 21:01

How often have you misplaced your keys? Your checkbook? Your wallet? And doesn’t this usually happen when you’re in hurry?

I’m in the same boat, but I’m here to extoll the praises of a clever piece of tech that has come to my rescue. It’s called Tile, and I can’t even count the number of times it has come through for us since its release in 2014.

IMG_2167At about 1.5 inches square, it’s easy to hang a Tile on your keychain, pop one in your checkbook and stash one in your wallet or purse. Load the Tile application on your Android phone or iPhone and you’re in business!

The Tile uses low power Bluetooth technology so that, if your valuable is misplaced, you can find it using the Tile app. The range is about 100 feet, and as you get closer, the concentric rings on the app’s screen get darker (like RADAR!)  When you initiate a Find, the app also instructs the Tile to initiate an audible alert. This really helps when your keys have fallen behind a couch cushion or under the driver’s seat!

If that Tile is out of range, the application will display the place it last “saw” it. You can then mark it as “lost” on the app. If any other Tile user comes within range, an anonymous message will be relayed back to you with its updated location (the other Tile user is not informed).  In a rural area, that might not help. but there a thousands of users here in Dallas.

Here’s another cool feature – let’s say you have your keys but can’t find your phone.  Not a problem. Click the button on any Tile three times and your phone will start playing the Tile tune, making it easy to find.

Until late 2018, there was one significant drawback to the Tile – the battery in each device would only last a year and was not replaceable.  That’s no longer the case, as the newest Tile models each have a user replaceable, inexpensive coin sized battery.

At $25 to $35 each, the Tiles are not inexpensive, but, for me, they are definitely worth the price! The Tile is a device I can’t live without.

http://www.thetileapp.com

 

 

 

 

About That UHF Connector

By: Bob K0NR
26 June 2023 at 03:56

I caused a minor kerfuffle on Twitter recently, when I posted this:

This connector, properly called a PL-259, is the most common RF connector for ham radio use. The female counterpart is called the SO-239 connector. While these connectors are often “UHF” connectors, they actually don’t perform very well at those frequencies (300 to 3000 MHz). So I feel justified in disparaging that name.

The tweet generated a large number of replies, mostly in support of my anti-UHF-naming sentiment. It seems that other highly-educated and thoughtful radio amateurs agree with me. (It seems that the wise hams out there always agree with me.) You should be able to view the thread here: https://twitter.com/K0NR/status/1653575723838492672

Some people pushed back on the anti-UHF sentiment, usually saying that it is the common name for this connecter. A few folks pointed out that Amphenol calls these things “UHF Connectors”, which did surprise me. Who am I to disagree with this manufacturer of high-quality connectors? Of course, Amphenol also says this:

Originally intended for use as a video connector in radar applications, UHF coaxial connectors are general purpose units developed for use in low frequency systems from 0.6 – 300 MHz. Invented for use in the radio industry in the 1930’s, UHF is an acronym for Ultra High Frequency because at the time 300 MHz was considered high frequency. They can be used when impedance mating is not required.

Well, there you have it: the connector was named UHF back when UHF meant up to 300 MHz. (Today, UHF means 300 to 3000 MHz). I particularly like the comment “They can be used when impedance mating is not required.” What? That does not sound good for RF applications. I do agree that these connectors can generally be used to 300 MHz, but these days the ITU calls that VHF (30 to 300 MHz).

Wikipedia provides a more complete explanation, worth reading.

OK, so the name “UHF” is archaic but it has kind of stuck, the way old terminology sometimes does. I am still going to avoid using this term because it really should be deprecated.

And don’t use these connectors above 300 MHz (UHF frequencies). Unless you have to. Which I did last weekend when the only cable available for my 440 MHz antenna had a PL-259 connector on it.

73 Bob K0NR

The post About That UHF Connector appeared first on The KØNR Radio Site.

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