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A Couple Of Trips To CVNP

By: KC8JC
18 June 2024 at 14:42

A Long Weekend

I had the opportunity to take Friday off, so I did. And with a day off and no commitments until much later, I headed out to The Octagon at Cuyahoga Valley National Park – US-0020. I just couldn’t think of a better way to spend a few hours in the quiet before a weekend of things and stuff.

A brief diversion? The summer has arrived, so my Jeep has its summer outfit on. This is a rag top with no windows save the front windshield and its safari doors. Look, I’m not made of sugar and I live in a place that is grey and cold for a decent chunk of the year. When I get the chance to enjoy the wind in my face, I take it. That does come with some risks. When it rains, well, I get wet. And to be absolutely clear, I expect it and embrace it!

A green Jeep Wrangler with safari doors, a cargo cage, and a soft top with no windows.
A green Jeep Wrangler with safari doors, a cargo cage, and a soft top with no windows.

The forecast for the day did NOT include rain. I tossed my clamp-on umbrella into the Jeep simply to keep the sun off as that can heat up the radio and get in my face. It’s a nice thing to take along for contingencies. Ya know, sun or…rain.

Halfway to the park, the skies opened up and it rained cats and dogs for about 25 minutes. I pulled over and looked at the weather radar. It was going to pass quickly enough so I kept going. Arriving at the park, I was met with some “jokes” from others in the parking lot. I smiled and grabbed my gear. They’d come back sweaty and gross while I was just freshly showered!

Getting to the picnic tables did show me that I had some obstacles. The table was wet and so was the bench. No worries! I brought my tarp (always do!) and I set up the umbrella to keep the water that was falling out of the trees off of my gear. I deployed the AX1 and hooked up the IC-705. I was ready to go!

Solar Goodness

Friday was great for solar weather. The conditions were good on 40 and 20 and I was able to grab enough contacts to call it an activation in relatively short order. It was so much nicer than the prior activations when the local star was blowing its top and making things difficult. It was great to pull in the contacts!

For a bit of extra fun, I tossed my Surface Go 2 into the bag and grabbed some FT8 while I was at it. It’s been quite a while since I did any digital work during a POTA activity.

IC-705 and AX1 on a wet table with headphones, log book, and paddles under an umbrella.
IC-705 and AX1 on a wet table with headphones, log book, and paddles under an umbrella.

QSO Map

With it turning from rain to clear skies I’d been on the air long enough and was feeling refreshed. Here’s what the QSO Map looks like.

QSO Map of the activation of US-0020 by KC8JC on 14-Jun-2024.
QSO Map of the activation of US-0020 by KC8JC on 14-Jun-2024.

Fun While It Lasted

Saturday rolled around and it turned out that we had a graduation party to attend and a few errands to run. What would normally have been a trip to CVNP on a bicycle turned into a quick drive out to play a little radio while the things that needed doing and didn’t involve me were done. I was very pleased to get two opportunities to get into the field in one weekend.

The wonderful solar conditions from Friday DID NOT flow into Saturday. The earth was spinning into all of the fun that comes from yet another CME. This was causing all kinds of problems. The bands would open for a bit and then go silent. As usual, I parked my IC-705 on a portion of the band where I could see the FT8 signals on the waterfall and watched them ebb and flow as I tried to nab enough CW contacts for an activation.

It didn’t work out that way. I managed to get 7 CW contacts in an hour. That’s not great. But I did bring along my computer and flipped over to FT8 to pick up an additional 4 contacts and validate the activation. I don’t know that I would have made it without moving to a digital mode.

The IC-705

It is not a secret that I am a huge fanboy for the IC-705. The switch from operating CW to FT8 was as simple as turning on my little WiFi router that I carry for these occasions and launching wvfiew and WSJT-X on my computer. That’s it. It took maybe 2 minutes and I was on the air and calling CQ on FT8. It’s brilliant and frictionless. Sure, I’ve been using it for years now and have figured out a workflow that makes things very smooth, but wow is this rig a dream for multi-mode portable. Which, again, is not a surprise as that’s kind of its purpose. It’s just amazing to me that it feels so simple when everything else (like the sun) is making things complicated.

MS Surface GO 2, IC-705, log book and paddles on a tarp with the AX1 antenna in the background.
MS Surface GO 2, IC-705, log book and paddles on a tarp with the AX1 antenna in the background.

QSO Map

Here’s what the activation looks like.

QSO Map of the activation of US-0020 by KC8JC on 15-Jun-2024.
QSO Map of the activation of US-0020 by KC8JC on 15-Jun-2024.

Final

As we get closer and closer to the solar maximum of Cycle 25 the conditions are going to get weird. I’ve decided that when I head out to do an activation I’m going to toss the computer into the bag just in case. More modes make a successful activation more likely. While activating isn’t the goal – being outside and playing radio is – it’s still nice to check it off as DONE. It also keeps me fresh on my digital operating skills. It’s probably time to play a bit more with fldigi so I can get some other modes in the log. Time for some more experimentation!

It might also be time to take the Hardrock-50 into the field with The Big Battery. We’ll see what happens if and when the mood strikes!

Thanks for reading and 72!

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Thanksgiving Holiday Radio Activities

By: KC8JC
27 November 2023 at 17:37

Some Time Off

This past week was Thanksgiving in the U.S. and I decided to take off Monday – Wednesday to pair up with the holidays that were already on the calendar for Thursday and Friday. It made for a good, long stretch out of the office. It also provided the opportunity to get out and activate my two favorite parks for a total of 4 CW activations during my time off. The weather was, well, not stellar for the bulk of the week. It was mostly overcast and cold or raining cats and dogs on the days that I didn’t get out to a park. Of course, there was the actual holiday with family and fun. In the midst of all of that, I got outside and got radio active. Here’s how it went.

K-0020 – 19-Nov-2023

Sledding Hills

There is a very nice set of sledding hills inside of the Cuyahoga Valley National Park. My wife had never been there and she wanted something a little more challenging for a hike with the puppy. We decided that we’d give that a go and I’d find someplace to set up.

The sledding hills at Cuyahoga Valley National Park.
The sledding hills at Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

There is a very large fire barrel of sorts that it behind a windbreak. The intention is to give sledders a place to warm up and hang out when they need a break. With no snow on the ground and it being a Sunday, I simply grabbed one of the picnic tables that were stored inside of the windbreak. I put my back to the wind and into the sun and got set up.

The CVNP fireplace/fire barrel in its windbreak.
The CVNP fireplace/fire barrel in its windbreak.

This activation was done with the IC-705 setup using the AX1 clamped to the picnic table. As always, I was a little startled by how well the AX1 performed. 20 meters was on fire. I managed to bag Azores and an operator in France. I love it when the wild callsigns pop in! I walked away from that outing with 35 contacts that stretched from the aforementioned France out west to Colorado. Not bad for 5 watts!

IC-705, log book, and paddles sitting on a picnic table in front of the fireplace.
IC-705, log book, and paddles sitting on a picnic table in front of the fireplace.
The Elecraft AX1 clamped to the picnic table.
The Elecraft AX1 clamped to the picnic table.

Here’s what the QSO Map looks like:

Activation of K-0020 by KC8JC on 19-Nov-2023.
Activation of K-0020 by KC8JC on 19-Nov-2023.

K-0020 – 20-Nov-2023

Deep Lock Quarry

The very next day was a lot colder and darker. We decided to hit a different trailhead at Cuyahoga Valley National Park. The wind was high, so I took my Serious Business winter coat to keep me warm. It was the same setup as the day before. However, the bands weren’t as on fire as they’d been and, well, it was Monday morning-ish. Maybe not the best time to try to pull off an activation. It took me over an hour to get 18 contacts. I did get another wild callsign coming out of England! It was in the noise, but we stuck with it and made the contact. CW is kind of miraculous that way.

AX1, IC-705, log book, and paddles on a picnic table in far less hospitable weather than the day before.
AX1, IC-705, log book, and paddles on a picnic table in far less hospitable weather than the day before.

By the end of the activation, my hands were cold and the bands were quieting down. All in all, it was a quiet and very peaceful activation. The price paid for solitude at the park was cold fingers. When real winter drops in, I will be well-practiced in writing with gloves.

Here’s what the QSO Map looks like:

Activation of K-0020 by KC8JC on 20-Nov-2023.
Activation of K-0020 by KC8JC on 20-Nov-2023.

K-1999 – 24-Nov-2023

X6100 Fail or Operator Error?

I have a trip coming up for work that will take me back to Texas. Given that I will have a little time to myself on the day that I arrive, I would be sillier than normal if I didn’t take a radio along to activate a park that my family and I really enjoyed when we lived out that way. With that in mind, I figured that the best rig for me to travel with would be my Xiegu X6100. This rig and I have a very strange relationship. It’s a very unfair one because I can’t help but stare at the things that it’s not and that isn’t right or productive. But that’s what I do. So we go in circles with me playing with it and then not wanting to take it into the field except as a backup when we’re camping. With the upcoming trip it seemed like the time to take it off of the shelf and get it into the field.

My original plans for this rig were 100% digital operation. They did eventually get CAT control and audio over WiFi using wfview but the rig heats up so much that running FT8 for extended periods makes me uncomfortable. It also picks up a ton of noise when connected to my tablet over USB. So I’ve stuck to using it primarily for phone operations. It does that very well! But for this activation, I was going 100% CW.

I got set up at my favorite picnic table on the point by the water at West Branch SP – K-1999 and deployed the AX1. The first big issue was that I fumbled around the settings. It took me about 15 minutes to get the rig up and running on CW with the AX1 tuned to a good SWR. 90% of this was because my hands were cold and the wind was blowing hard and the other 10% came down to the fact that I’m not fluent with the rig and its settings. Maybe those percentages should be flipped. It doesn’t really matter. When the wind started getting even more intense, I decided to move to the Jeep and operate from there. I wasn’t thrilled about it, but it would have to work.

My frustration had me toss the X6100 in the backpack and grab the IC-705 as I brought it along Just In Case. I’m glad I did.

The clamp mount for the AX1 fits perfectly on the cargo cage bars I have on my Jeep. With the counterpoise deployed and the window open just a crack I was able to sit in the passenger seat comfortably with the IC-705 clamped to the Oh No! bar and my handy clipboard on my lap. It is a much better and more comfortable position than when trying to do ANYTHING with my tablet in the Jeep. Another point for CW, I suppose!

It was a miserable day so I didn't take any pictures. But here's a picture of butter molded to look like a turkey for Thanksgiving dinner.
It was a miserable day so I didn’t take any pictures. But here’s a picture of butter molded to look like a turkey for Thanksgiving dinner.

I wound out that activation with 15 contacts. The only real Aw Shucks moment was getting a contact with an operator in Illinois that the QSO Map system was convinced lived in Hawaii. He does operate from Hawaii, but that’s not where he was sitting when we made our contact, sadly for my POTA 50 States Hunt.

Here’s what the QSO Map looks like:

Activation of K-1999 by KC8JC on 24-Nov-2023.
Activation of K-1999 by KC8JC on 24-Nov-2023.

K-1999 – 26-Nov-2023

X6100 Success!

With the trip for work looming, I was at loose ends on what to do in terms of which radio to take with me. I was honestly thinking about taking the TR-45L. It has all of its parts in a single lunchbox form factor and wouldn’t take up too much space. The IC-705 was out because the tuner introduces some variables and I didn’t feel like tossing a resonant antenna in a tree was going to be a solid plan for any activations that might present themselves. So I did the thing that I often have to do to make things work and that’s just take the bare essentials and go for it. No backups. No failsafes. I put the X6100, a key, a coax cable, and my AX1 kit into a bag and headed out to West Branch SP – K-1999.

I set up by the marina this time. It was too cold and windy to sit outside and there was the threat of rain. I clamped the AX1 to the Jeep again and tossed out the counterpoise. I fired up the X6100 and made a tweak or two. It turns out that I don’t like a really loud sidetone when I’m sending. I know when I screw up. I don’t need it to be as loud as the inbound signal. Maybe I’m picky? In any case, I tweaked the settings and got to calling CQ.

A close up of the AX1 mount attached to the cargo bar on the Jeep.
A close up of the AX1 mount attached to the cargo bar on the Jeep.
The AX1 as it looks mounted to the Jeep in its entireity.
The AX1 as it looks mounted to the Jeep in its entireity.

I had folks coming back to me fairly quickly. I reeled in 17 contacts in just under 30 minutes on 20m! Even got a park to park in there with a Canadian club, VE3CWM at Diefenbunker National Historic Site – VE-5083. Not bad at all!

This particular day happened to be part two of a very large CW contest. I should have started on 30 or 17 meters to stay clear of that traffic, but I didn’t. That’s on me. I certainly won’t do that again. I was cruising along and collecting contacts when a station dropped in on top of me running who knows how much power and started blasting CQ. No QRL? Probably didn’t even listen to the frequency first. That’s not illegal, but it is impolite. Maybe that’s the thing I get to grouse about as a grouchy ham when I get on the repeater next time. Doesn’t matter. I got 17 contacts, activated the park, and proved to myself that the X6100 would be ready to go with me on my trip.

The triumphant Xiegu X6100 on the dashboard of the Jeep.
The triumphant Xiegu X6100 on the dashboard of the Jeep.

A couple of observations for the X6100 included it getting very warm (as expected) and seeing it drain most of its battery in 30 minutes. That means I should take along a 3Ah spare just to be safe. The battery life was a bit of a surprise for me, but every other time I’ve used it for long periods has been with a large external battery. I will pay attention to that in the future and take more notes.

Here’s what the QSO Map looks like:

Activation of K-1999 by KC8JC on 26-Nov-2023.
Activation of K-1999 by KC8JC on 26-Nov-2023.

A Fantastic Week!

Time playing radio outside is time well spent. I had a really great vacation with my family hanging out around the house, enjoying the holiday, and getting out to play radio on top of it all. I also got my first taste of really cold weather for the year. I almost can’t wait for it to be cold enough for snow. At least then, it’s less likely that things will get wet. I’ll take snow over rain any day of the week. I also learned that operating CW from the Jeep isn’t so bad. I’ll tuck that nugget of knowledge away as an option for when things get too gross.

Thanks for reading and 72 to all!

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Pink bits of rubber causing a blinking light... (Problems with Jeep Rubcon sway bar disconnect mechanism)

By: Unknown
29 September 2021 at 02:47

 A bit more than a week ago I volunteered for an aid station along the route of the Wasatch 100 mile endurance run - which, as the name implies, is a 100 mile race, starting and ending some distance apart in Northern Utah.  This year, I was asked to be near-ish the start of the race, about 20.9 miles (30.4 km) from the start at a location in the mountains, above the Salt Lake Valley - a place that required the use of a high-clearance and somewhat rugged vehicle - such as my 2017 Jeep Rubicon.

Figure 1:
The blinking "Sway Bar" light - not something that you
want to see when you have shifted out of four-wheel drive!
Click on the image for a larger version.

Loaded with several hundred pounds of "stuff" I went up there, bouncing over the rough roads and despite enduring several bouts of rain, hail, lightning and thunder, managed to do what needed to be done in support of the race and runners and headed down.

Because of the rather rough road, I decided to push the button marked "Sway Bar" that disconnects the front left and right front tires from each other, allowing more independent vertical travel of each wheel, making the ride smoother and somewhat improving handing over the rougher parts.  Everything went fine until - on the return trip, near the bottom of the unimproved portion of the mountain road, I pushed the button again and...  the light kept blinking, on for a second and off for a second - and a couple minutes later, it started blinking twice as fast, letting me know that it wasn't "happy".

"What's the problem with that?"

Pretty much all modern road vehicles have a sway bar - or something analogous to it - that couple the vertical travel of the wheels on the same axle together to reduce body roll, which improves handling as one makes a turn - particularly around corners.  At low speeds, such roll isn't too consequential, but at high speeds excess roll can result in... well... "problems" - which is why I was a bit apprehensive as I re-entered the city streets.

Knowing that this type of vehicle is known for "issues" with the sway bar disconnect, I did the normal things:  Pushed the button on and off while rocking the vehicle back and forth (while parked, of course!), stopped and restarted the engine - and even pulled the fuse for the sway bar and put it back in - all things suggested online, but nothing seemed to work.

Stopping at a parking lot and crawling under the front of the vehicle while someone else rocked it back and forth did verify one thing:  Despite the indicator on the dashboard telling me that the sway bar wasn't fully engaged, I could see that it was, in fact, locked together as it should be as evidenced by the fact that the two halves of the bar seemed to move together with the vehicle's motion - so at least I wasn't going to have to drive gingerly back on the freeway.

Fixing the problem:

Figure 2:
Sway bar and disconnect mechanism, removed from the
vehicle with the lead screw/motor in the upper-right.
Click on the image for a larger version.
As mentioned before, this is a common problem with this type of vehicle and online, you will find lots of stories and suggestions as to what might be done.  Quite a few people just ignore it, others have it fixed under warranty - but those that have vehicles out of warranty seem to mostly retrofit it with a manual disconnect, if they care about the sway bar at all.

The reasons for the issue seem to be various:  Being an electromechanical part that is outside the vehicle, it's subject to the harsh environment of the road.  Particularly in the case of some die-hard Jeepers (of which I'm not particularly, although I've made very good use of its rough and off-road capabilities) reports online indicate that it is particularly prone to degradation/contamination if one frequently fords rivers and spends lots of time in the mud:  Moisture and dirt can ingress the mechanism and cause all sorts of things to go wrong.

Fortunately, one can also find online a few web pages and videos about this mechanism, so it wasn't with too much trepidation that, a week after the event - when I was going to change the oil, filters and rotate the tires anyway - I put the front of the vehicle on jack stands and removed the sway bar assembly entirely.  This task wasn't too hard, as it consisted of:

  • Remove the air dam.  My vehicle had easily removable plastic pins that partially popped apart with the persuasion of two screwdrivers - and there are only eight of these pins.
  • Disconnect the wire.  There's a catch that when pressed, allows a latch to swing over the connector, at which point one can rock it loose:  I disconnected the wire loom from the bracket on the sway bar disconnect body and draped it over the steering bar.
  • Disconnect the sway bar at each of the wheels.  This was easy - just a bolt on either side.
  • Undo the two clamps that hold the sway bar to the frame.  No problem here - just two bolts on each side.
  • Maneuver the sway bar assembly out from under the vehicle.  The entire sway bar assembly weighs probably about 45 pounds (22kg) so it's somewhat awkward, but it isn't too bad to handle.

Figure 3:
Inside the portion where the lead screw motor
goes:  Very clean - no contamination!
Click on the image for a larger version.
Before you get to this point I'd recommend that anyone doing this take a few pictures of the unit and also watch one or two YouTube videos as you'll want to be sure where everything goes, and under which bolt the small bracket that holds the wiring harness goes.

With the sway bar removed from the vehicle, I first  removed the end with the motor and connector and was pleased to find that it was perfectly clean - no sign at all of moisture or dirt. Next, I removed the other half of the housing, containing the gears and found that this, too, was free of obvious signs of moisture or dirt:  The only thing that I noticed at first was that the original, yellow grease was black in the immediate vicinity of the gears and the outside ring - but this was likely to due to the very slight wear of the metal pieces themselves.

The way that this mechanism works is that the motor drives a spring-loaded lead screw, pushing an "outside" gear (e.g. one with teeth on the inside) by way of a fork, away from two identical gears on the ends each of the sway bar shafts which decouples them - and when this happens, they can move separately from each other.  The use of a strong spring prevents stalling of the motor, but it requires that there be a bit of vehicle motion to allow the outside gear, under compression of the spring, to slip off to decouple the two shafts as they try to move relative to each other.

Figure 4:
The fork with the outside gear-cam thingie.  To disengage
the sway bar, the outer gear is pushed out further than
shown, disconnecting it from the end of the sway bar
seen in the picture above and allowing the two halves of
the rod to move independently.
Click on the image for a larger version.
When one "reconnects" the sway bar for normal driving, the motor retracts the lead screw and another (weaker) spring pushes the fork that causes tension on the outside gear so that it will move back, covering both of the gears on the ends of the  sway bar.  Again, some vehicle movement - particularly rocking of the vehicle - is required to allow the two gears to align so that the outer gear can slip over the splines and lock them into place.

In order to detect when the sway bar shafts are coupled properly, there's a rod that touches the fork that moves the outer gear and this goes to a switch to detect the position of the fork - and in this way, it can determine if the sway bar is coupled or uncoupled.  With everything disassembled, I plugged the motor unit back in and pushed the sway bar button and the lead screw dutifully moved back and forth - and pushing on the bar used to sense the position of the fork seemed to satisfy the computer and when pushed in, it happily showed that the sway bar was properly engaged.

 

 

What was wrong?

I was fortunate in that there seemed to be nothing obviously wrong mechanically or electrically (e.g. no corrosion or dirt) - so why was I having problems?

I manually moved the fork back and forth, noticing that it seemed to "stick" occasionally.  Removing the fork and moving just the outer gear by itself, I could feel this sticking, indicating that it wasn't the fork that was hanging up.  Using a magnifier, I looked at the teeth of the gears and noticed some small blobs in the grease - but poking them with a small screwdriver caused them to yield.

Figure 5:
Embedded in the grease are blobs of pink rubber
from the seal, seen in the background.
Click on the image for a larger version.

Digging a few of these out, I rubbed them with a paper towel and discovered that they were of the same pink rubber that comprised the seals:  Apparently, when the unit was manufactured, either the seal was pushed in too far, or there was a bit of extra "flash" on the molded portion of the seals - and as things moved back and forth, quite a few of these small pieces of rubber were liberated, finding their way into the works, jamming the mechanism.

Using tweezers, paper towels, small screwdrivers and cotton swabs, I carefully cleaned all of the gears (the two sets on the sway bar ends and the "outside" ring gear) of the rubber.  A bit of inspection seemed to indicate that wherever these rubber bits had been coming from had already worn away and more were not likely to follow any time soon.

Figure 6:
More pink blobs - this time on the gear on the other sway bar.
Hopefully whatever "flash" from the seal had produced them
has since worn down and no more will be produced!
Click on the image for a larger version.

Putting an appropriate of synthetic grease to replace that removed, I reassembled the unit and put it back on the car, pushed the button.  Upon reassembly, I applied a light layer of grease on all of the moving surfaces involved with the shifting fork - some of which may have been sparsely lubricated upon installation.  I also put a few drops of light, synthetic (PTFE) oil on the leadscrew and the shaft that operated the sensing switch as both seemed to be totally devoid of any lubrication.

Although there was no sign of corrosion, I applied an appropriate amount of silicone dielectric grease to the electrical connector and its seal - just to be safe.

Did it work?

With the engine off, but in "4-Low", I could hear the lead screw motor move back and forth, and upon rocking the car gently I could hear the fork snap back and forth as it sought its proper position.  Meanwhile, on the dashboard, the "Sway Bar" light properly indicated the state of the mechanism:  Problem solved!

All of this took about two hours to complete, but now that I know my way around it, I could probably do it in about half the time.

Random comments:

I'd never really tried it before, but I was unsure if the motor would operate if the engine was not running:  It does - pressing the "Sway Bar" button alternately winds the lead screw in and out - but it's not really obvious as to its position if the cam doesn't lock into place and the light turns on solid or goes out.  Of course, this thing doesn't operate unless one has shifted to four wheel drive, low range.

June 2023 update:

I have had - and continue to have - NO problems at all with the sway bar mechanism.  When I push the button to disconnect or - in particular, reconnect - it does so immediately - something that did not always happen prior to my working on it.

This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com.

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