The Big Kansas Coil is a lightweight, portable, and durable base loaded vertical antenna system that when paired with a telescoping whip operates on the 6 through 80 meter ham radio bands. This coil offers some innovative features, including: 3D printed construction out of engineering grade materials, integrated coil scale, easy to use adjustment collar, and a wider diameter coil than anything else on the market.
So what makes the big Kansas Coil different than other base loaded coils? First off is the construction. This coil is entirely 3D printed out of engineering grade Glass and Carbon Fiber filled Nylon material. This coil is lightweight and durable. The material is weather and heat resistant so this antenna is rated for up to 100 watts digital modes with a 50% duty cycle.
The second is its size, or diameter of the coil. This coil is wider than anything else on the market. In building loading or inductance coils, the diameter of the coil will affect the Q or quality factor. Narrow coils will have a very high Q and extremely sharp bandwidth on the lower bands. If you make the coil wider, the Q is reduced and you end up with more bandwidth. I’ll demonstrate what that means a bit later in this video.
As a bonus, patrons can view the unedited phone contacts for this POTA activation. Visit my page on Patreon for details: https://www.patreon.com/kb9vbrantennas
Links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This does not affect the price you pay.
You may think the Rez Antenna Systems Recon 40 is like any other base loaded coil, but what makes this one different is that you can change bands with a flick of a switch
Rez Antenna Systems Recon 40 coil: https://www.rezantenna.com/product-page/recon-40
As you may know, I am a big fan of using a vertical antenna for my portable operations and Parks on the Air activations. I enjoy the speed of setting up a quarter wave vertical antenna for the higher bands, and I love the versatility of using a loaded coil to extend my operation down into the 40 meter band.
Knowing that many people like to take advantage of the efficiency of the 213 inch vertical whip as a ¼ radiator, Rez antenna systems has developed this product, the Recon 40, to extend the range of the 17 foot vertical whip down into the 40 meter band.
The Recon 40 is a fixed inductance coil system to turn a 17 foot whip, which is resonant on the 20 meter band, into a base loaded vertical antenna that is now resonant on the 40 meter band.
But with conventional coil systems, you have to add or remove the coil, or somehow bypass it in order to switch between 40 and 20 meters. The Recon 40 solves that problem by adding a bypass switch, right in the coil system. This switch, when turned on, puts the coil in line with the antenna and turns it into a 40 meter antenna. Flick the switch off, and now you’ve bypassed the coil and your whip is instantly resonant on 20 meters. Physically adjusting the whip will get you resonance for any other band above 20 meters.
Rez antenna systems loaned me a kit for this review. I’ve returned it and no further compensation was received. My comments and experience with it are my own without outside influence.
Links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This does not affect the price you pay.
Portable antennas (verticals, loaded dipoles) typically use coils on the lower HF bands to make them electrically "larger" to alow them to be resonated at frequencies well below their physical size - but what about losses in those coils?
While it's "traditional" to use copper wire wire for these coils, there are a number of modern offerings that use stainless steel - and both types have their cheerleaders and detractors, so what's the deal?
Figure 1: The JPC-12 vertical in the field.
Note: This post refers to previous entries on this blog about the JPC-7 and JPC-12 antennas that are relevant to this discussion, namely:
While some details in this article are specific to these antennas, the general observations may be applied to any HF antenna using loading coils. I have not (yet?) done A/B field tests with antennas using different (stainless vs silver plated/copper) coils and/or simulations - perhaps a topic for a future blog entry?
* * * * *
In previous posts I have discussed the JPC-12 vertical and the JPC-7 dipole: To make either antennas usable at frequencies lower than their natural resonance, inductance is required (the "loaded" part) to achieve resonance at the desired frequency - and for their lowest operating frequency - 40 meters - it takes a fair bit of "loading", indeed.
For this, the JPC-7 dipole, which has a "coil-less" resonance of around 22 MHz, has two coils with adjustable taps - one for each element - a slider being used to adjust the amount of inductance: Higher inductance = lower frequency.
The JPC-12 vertical - made by the same folks - unsurprisingly uses the exact same coil as the JPC-7 - and for the same reason: To add inductance to make the electrically-short element - a radiator of approximately 150" (381cm) total length (resonant around 18 MHz without any added inductance and using the originally-supplied components) offer a semblance of a match on lower bands.
Having the coil in common, they also share the same trait: Loading coils wound with stainless steel - and since, when running on a lower band like 40 meters - all of these coils run quite warm at nominal transmitter power (100 watts or so) there are definitely power losses in the coil - but how bad is it?
Wanting to answer this question, I ordered an extra coil from the seller from which I'd bought my JPC-7 and JPC-12 antennas and with that - and the three that came with the two antennas originally - I now had four coils - enough to do direct A/B comparisons on both antennas when I rewound two of them with silver-plated wire.
Why stainless?
The coils originally supplied with the JPC-7 and JPC-12 are wound with 1mm diameter (18 AWG) stainless-steel wire. Fortunately, an austenitic (non-magnetic, as checked with a neodymium magnet) type of stainless steel is used: If this wire been magnetic at all things would be much worse in terms of loss. While the 1mm diameter stainless steel wire is very rugged physically, the fact that it is stainless steel means
that its resistance is quite high compared to copper - in this case the
end-to-end DC resistance is about 4 ohms, but the RF resistance, taking
the "skin effect" into account, is likely to be very much higher.
Using Owen Duffy's online skin effect calculator (link)
and assuming 1mm diameter, 316 Stainless, the 4 ohms of DC resistance
translate as follows to RF resistance including skin effect:
3.5 MHz = 5.2 ohms
7 MHz = 7.2 ohms
14 MHz = 9.6 ohms
28 MHz = 13.6 ohms
These values would be for the entire
coil, but since one uses slightly less than the full number of turns of the coil to resonate at 40 meters, the losses should be lower - but the
message is clear: The less of the coil that you need to use, the lower
the loss. The total length of 1mm wire is estimated to be about 180
inches (457cm) and by comparison, copper wire of this same diameter
and length would have a DC resistance of about 0.1 ohm - or, according to Owen Duffy's calculator, a skin
effective resistance of 2 ohms at 28 MHz.
Why stainless steel, then? Obviously, stainless steel won't oxidize/corrode like many metals - and it may be that in quantity, stainless steel wire is less expensive than silver plated/copper, but in this case I believe that there's another reason. Other manufacturers of portable antennas (Wolf River, for example) advertise the use of stainless steel for their coils as well, extolling the virtues of the material in regards to its inability to corrode - but I'd be surprised if such corrosion is likely to be the main reason for a hypothetical copper coil's losses in an electrically-short antenna that would make it worse than stainless.
I suspect that the "advantage" of a stainless steel coil is, in fact, related to the fact that it islossy. As portable antennas - when used on the lower HF bands - are necessarily smaller than their full-sized counterparts, their radiation resistance will be commensurately lower and this means that the feedpoint resistance may be lower as well when fed with simple matching schemes such as a series coil.
What this means is that rather than somewhere "around" 50 ohms, the feedpoint impedance when using a very low-loss coil may be much lower, resulting in an "unacceptable" VSWR (e.g. >2:1) at resonance: While this would actually imply greater efficiency due to lower loss, it's "inconvenient" to the user. While a more versatile means of matching the antenna is possible (multiple coil/capacitors such as a simple antenna tuner or the use of an autotransformer) this complicates construction, operation and can increase cost.
As implied earlier, another method of dealing with low feedpoint impedances is to add series resistance to raise it to something closer to 50 ohms to make radios (and their operators) "happy" - but an ohmic resistance in the signal path (say, the use of stainless steel) means power loss, and power loss means heat!
How hot is it?
Figure 2: The original loading coil (lower) wound with stainless wire as seen with a thermal infrared camera. After 60 seconds at 75 watts (on 40 meters) the coil temperature rose by 110F (61C) from the ambient 53F (12C) to about 166F (74F)! Click on the image for a larger version.
I've operated both the JPC-7 and JPC-12 antenna a number of times in the field on the "lower" bands of 40 and 30 meters at 100 watts, using both CW and SSB, and observed that in each case, the coil gets "hot". As the coil forms are (apparently) molded nylon, this is nowhere near the likely softening point of more than 300F (150C) - and being open to the air to allow convective cooling, and using a mode where the duty cycle is intermittent certainly helps prevent a "meltdown". (Compared this to PVC - which has a softening temperature in the area of 140-180F or 60-80C)
As a test, I put both the original stainless steel and the rewound silver-plated coils in series on the JPC-12 vertical, putting a jumper across the coil not under test. I then transmitted 75 watts into the JPC-12 vertical for 60 seconds and measured the temperature of the coil with an infrared thermometer and thermal camera, noting a temperature rise of about 110F (61C) - still not hot enough to risk melting the coil form, but certainly enough to dissuade one from running a 100% continuous mode like SSTV, RTTY or other digital modes on a hot day! (Note: On a hot day a temperature rise of 110F/61C may well be enough to soften a PVC coil form.)
The picture in Figure 2 - taken with a thermal infrared camera - shows the heat produced when testing with the JPC-12 vertical. (Note: During this test I swapped positions of the two coils to see if there was much difference in the current/heat of the stainless coil owing to differences in current distribution, but as expected, there was not.) Similar results were observed when operating SSB and CW on the JPC-7 loaded dipole.
At this point I should make something clear: The reader should not presume that the use of a stainless steel coil is going to result in an antenna that doesn't work, but rather it implies a degree of loss of efficiency. As I've made many contacts with both the JPC-7 and JPC-12 in their original form, I know that it's perfectly capable of usable performance - but how much better would it be if we were to address coil losses?
Also, once I had seen the loss in the coil, I couldn't "un-see" it and I had to do something about it.
Choice of wire
In order to minimize losses in an electrically-small antenna it is important to reduce resistive losses and the loading coil and reducing the generation of heat produced by it is a good place to start - and copper wire is an obvious choice. Knowing that the wire used is 1mm diameter - about 18 AWG - there were a lot of choices: I had some enameled 18 AWG wire already on-hand and I could easily have obtained some tinned 18 AWG "buss" wire as well. Finding bare copper wire was a bit more difficult, but since we need only make contact on the ends and along the slider, there's no reason for the entire coil to be bare and thus be subject to oxidization: If I needed to do so, I could have wound the coil with enameled wire and then selectively remove the insulation along the path of the inductor's slider with fine sandpaper.
On a hunch, I did a search and quickly found on Amazon some 1mm (18 AWG) "Silver plated" copper wire of the same diameter described as being used for jewelry - a small spool costing about US$15 with more than enough wire to re-do three of these coils. Footnote 1
Figure 3: The coil - still with the stainless steel wire. On the left end of the slider (the "top") of the coil can be seen the insulator. Prior to disassembly move the slider to the end opposite the insulator (maximum inductance) as shown. When removing or installing the Allen screw, keep a firm grip on the end with the insulator to prevent it from rotating and damaging the insulator itself or the end of the rod that protrudes into it. Click on the image for a larger version.
The use of silver-plated wire is traditional in RF devices as it has the advantage over copper wire in that as it oxidizes, the result (e.g. silver tarnish) is still a conductive substance, much better than copper oxide - and compared to bare copper it is less (chemically) reactive overall - plus the coil looks very nice!
Rewinding the coil:
The coil form itself - with molded grooves - is quite rugged and lends itself very well to being rewound by hand. Using a silver-colored "Sharpie" I noted where the original coil's windings started and ended. I would also recommend taking a photo of it - particularly if you are rewinding the coil of a JPC-12 vertical and do not have a second coil as a comparison.
It is also important to note that one end of the slider is insulated to prevent the shorting the unused turns of the coil itself - something that would surely reduce "Q" and overall efficiency: It is important to reinstall the slider assembly in the same orientation as before to put the insulated end of the slider rod on the "top" (e.g. the side closest to the top of the vertical or end of the dipole).
When rewinding, first move the slider to the end farthest away from the end with insulator on the rod (e.g. the "bottom" of the coil, with the stud protruding) and cover the spring contact with a bit of tape to keep it with the slider body: This moves the slider - and the contact spring - well away from the end of the wire that we are going to remove first. Using an Allen wrench, carefully remove the screw holding the end of the slider bar with the insulator (e.g. the part at the top of the coil, with the female threads): The end of the wire is tucked under the supporting post and the screw itself goes into the brass slug at the center of the coil with the M10 threads used to assemble the rest of the antenna. Keep tension on the hardware with a finger as you undo this to minimize the possibility of it being launched across the room.
Figure 4: This shows the end of the new wire looped around the screw and the post tightened down to hold it in place as it is wound. A blade screwdriver is used to push the wire into the groove below the slider boar to keep it from jumping out of the slot. Be sure to start the wire in the same place as the original coil. Click on the image for a larger version.
At some point, the coil of stainless steel wire will unwind itself rather forcefully when it slips out from under the screw (it may be a good idea to wear glasses) as it is under a fair bit of spring tension: Even if you are prepared for this to happen, it can be startling! At this point be sure that the contact spring is still on the slider block: If it is not, look for and find it now!
With the tension released, remove the other end of the slider bar. At this point, carefully remove the slider bar from the insulated end so that you have just the support post and set the rest of it aside. At this point you'll have a loose coil of stainless wire to set aside.
Take the end of the new wire and using a pair of needle-nose pliers, bend a loop to go around the screw for the support post and using (just) the support post that was insulated for the slider, secure it in place, under the post. Lay the wire in the groove and at the point where you marked the coil to begin, lay the wire in that groove and then push the wire into the shallow slot above which the slider moves to hold it in place.
Figure 5: As the wire is wound, keep pressure on the wire and coil form with a thumb while rotating the form itself, forcing the wire to drop into the molded slots. Continue winding until you get to where you had previously marked the end of the original coil - but there's no harm if you add one extra turn. Click on the image for a larger version.
Keeping the wire under tension - and using a thumb as necessary to hold that tension and push it onto the form - tightly wind the wire onto the form, making sure that it drops into the wire slots. When you get to where you marked the end of the coil (you can go one extra turn if you like!) push the wire into the slot again (to help hold it in place) and - leaving enough extra to go around the screw on the bottom of the coil - trim it off. Before putting a loop in the end of the wire to go around the screw, again use a blade screwdriver to push it into the groove to help hold it into place.
At this point I temporarily wrap a the loose end of the coil with a bit of electrical tape to keep it from unraveling while I loosen the post at the top of the coil and align it carefully so that I can plug the slider bar back in and re-mount it and the other post at the bottom of the coil, torquing the screws firmly and being careful to prevent the post with the insulator from twisting as this is done.
Figure 6: The finishing end of the coil with the wire looped under the slider rod support and tightened down. In this picture you can see how the wire has been pushed into the groove, under the slider. To the left of the end of the wire can be seen the blob of adhesive used to lock the end of the coil into place. Click on the image for a larger version.
Now, the coil has been successfully re-wound. While it may not be strictly necessary, I put a dab of "Shoe Goo" - a thick rubber adhesive - on the top and bottom 2-3 turns of the coil near where the wire drops into the slot and connects to the post to "glue" it into place, making sure that it doesn't jump out of its slot. If you don't have "Shoe Goo" or something similar, some RTV ("Silicone") can work as can epoxy - but cyanoacrylate and polyurethane glues (e.g. "Super" and "Gorilla" glue, respectively) may not work very well - and "hot melt glue" are definitely not recommended as either will likely break loose their bonds across a wide temperature range and changing mechanical stress.
The trick here is to bridge several turns of wire with the adhesive to lock them into place together as much as adhere them to the coil form.
Results
Figure 7: The coil rewound with silver-plated wire (upper), under the marker. As can be seen, the temperature rose by about 3F (less than 2C) above the ambient temperature of 53F (12C) after 60 seconds of key-down on 40 meters at 75 watts. Click on the image for a larger version.
As expected, the use of lower-loss wire for the coil results in a dramatic reduction of generated heat which no doubt corresponds with an improvement in overall antenna efficiency - The "after" picture (Figure 7) of the coil using the thermal camera after 60 seconds of transmission on 40 meters with 75 watts shows the difference. As in Figure 2, the original stainless steel coil is on the bottom, but it is the one that is jumpered, putting all of the RF energy into the upper (silver-plated) coil, instead.
Touching the coil immediately after the 60 second key-down, the loss-related heating of the coil wound with silver-plated wire was barely perceptible - a far cry from the original stainless-steel wound coil that was "hot"!
Electrical comparison of the stainless and silver-plated coils
For capacitors and inductors, one measurement of their departure from the ideal is their "Q" (e.g. "Quality Factor") and for inductors, the majority of this is likely to be the radio of the inductive reactance of the coil (XL)to its ohmic resistance. I decided to measure the unloaded "Q" (Qu) of the original stainless steel loading coil and the rewound silver-plated coil. To do this I used a NanoVNA and the method described in W7ZOI's article "The Two Faces of Q" (link) under the section called "Measuring Resonator Q": I used both methods (#1 using parallel L/C and #2 with L/C in series) to determine the "Q".
Using method #1, for the "Cc " capacitors I used two 1pF NP0 capacitors in series each (0.5pF) which resulted in a 35-45dB through loss at resonance. I put a high-quality 27pF silver mica capacitor in parallel with the coil under test and measured the -3dB response of the resonance curve. In this test I set the variable inductor to the mark indicating tuning for 40 meters (around 22 uH) which, with the 27pF capacitor, yielded a resonance in the area of 6.6 MHz for each of the two coils being tested
Assuming that the Q of the series silver mica capacitor (Co) is 1000 (a mediocre value - it's probably a bit higher) the results were:
At the risk of being accused of "cherry picking" my results, I'll note that for high "Q" values and where the value of Co is quite small, method #1 is less forgiving in terms of variances and minor losses in the test fixture, so we'll use the value from method #2. The reader should also note that with a higher Q, deficiencies in the test measurement and effects of the coil itself will result in lower than actual Qu(e.g. you will not get an erroneously higher value of Q) so it is likely that even the higher reading from method #2 on the silver-plated coil is, itself, a bit conservative.
Note: During testing I observed that just laying the coil on my wooden workbench lowered the Q of the silver-plated coil significantly (15-20%) so all readings were taken with both coils held about 12" (25cm) above it. I think that there is likely some effect of free-space capacitance that is reducing the reading so I suspect that the "actual" Qu of the silver-plated coil is higher, still. This same effect was extremely small with the stainless steel coil, further indicative of its lower Qu.
Comment: It's worth mentioning that with higher "Q" coils, the physical aspects of the coil itself - namely the ratio of the length versus diameter, spacing between turns, material of the coil form, increasingly affect the Q - both for reasons of geometry (which can affect the amount of wire needed) and less obvious parameters such as distributed capacitance, etc.
Taking these Qu measurements at face value, we can calculate the approximate "R" (resistive) loss of the two coils using the general formula:
Q = XL / R
Or the more general form, knowing the inductance:
Q = 2πf L / R
And rewriting this equation for R we get:
R = 2πf L /Q
So, for a frequency of 6.6 MHz (which should be representative of 40 meters) and an inductance of 22uH, XL is approximately 912 ohms, so for each of the two coils the apparent "R" value - which would be a combination of conductor loss and skin effect resistance we get:
Original stainless steel coil: R= 19.4 ohms
Rewound coil (silver-plated wire): R=4.1 ohms
The reader should be reminded that for ideal components, at resonance the reactance of the inductor is losslessly canceled out by the reactance of the capacitor so what we are left with - the value "R" mentioned above - will be the ohmic (conductor loss + skin effect) losses of the materials. This also means that the "R" value will be added to the feedpoint resistance - and the effect of this "R" value is to lose power as heat as we will see below. It is not lost on me that the loss values appear to be far higher than those obtained from Owen Duffy's calculator if one presumes skin effect to be the main source of loss - which we know is not going to be the case.
The ohmic loss mentioned above is not going to be the only source of loss in a real antenna system: In the case of a vertical, the "ground" losses (ohmic loss of radials, dirt, etc.) and with any antenna, the materials from which it is constructed (wire, telescoping rods which are themselves stainless steel, any balun being used, etc.) will come into play - and for an "electrically small" antenna such as either the JPC-7 or JPC-12 on 40 meters, will dominate and probably be the main points of loss besides the coil.
This goes to show how - in either case - doing anything to physically "embiggen" the size of the antenna - such as making the elements longer (adding drooping wires to the loaded dipole, adding a tophat to the vertical) will reduce the amount of inductance needed and increase the radiation resistance - both things that will contribute to improved efficiency.
With the stainless coil, it gets worse the lower you go!
Out of curiosity I re-did the Qu measurements using a 270pF silver
mica capacitor - which lowered the resonant frequency to about 2.2 MHz -
and got the following results using method #2:
Given the lower frequency and lower skin-effect losses I fully expected the loaded Qu to be slightly higher - which is true for the silver-plated coil - but initially I did not expect the Qu to go down on the stainless steel coil so I re-did the measurement using method #1 and got about the same results (to within a few percent) - but in retrospect, I realized that this was to be expected.
As QL can be defined as being the ratio between inductive reactance ( XL) and skin effect and ohmic resistance (R), if "R" remains pretty high and XL lowers with frequency, the "Q" will be lower: Since the resistance of the stainless steel wire is so high to begin with, it figures significantly in the reduction of Q and thus the losses incurred.
In perusing the forums in the back-and-forth discussions about stainless steel versus silver-plated coils, people have observed a "hotter" coil at the lower frequencies. At first glance, this makes sense since lower frequency = "more coil" = more lossy wire - but the fact that - at least at HF - the Q of the stainless coil goes down significantly with frequency makes it even worse!
Update:
I recently got my HP-4191A RF Impedance Analyzer online and did some direct measurements of the coils and capacitors. Unfortunately, at the 22uH inductance and 2.2 or 6.6 MHz, this instrument doesn't do too well (it wasn't designed to fully analyze such high inductance at those frequencies), but it fares much better with the 27 and 270pF capacitance values at these same frequencies.
Using the '4191A I measured the "Q" of the 27pF at 6.6 MHz as being
237 - but the Q did easily exceed 1000 in the area of 9-11 MHz. Meanwhile, the 270pF capacitor had a measured Q of 267 at 2.2 MHz and it, too, exceed 1000 at some frequencies.
As the Q of the silver mica capacitors mentioned above were assumed
to be 1000, we can now use a known value for the capacitor's Q and
recalculate the measured Qu of the L/C combination, which yields, using method #2 with the 27pF capacitor at 6.6 MHz, above as:
As expected, the measured unloaded Qu of the stainless steel coil didn't change by a huge amount, but the calculated Qu of the silver-plated coil certainly did!
If the capacitor Q values are taken at face value, we can come up with new values of "R" for the coil loss at 6.6 MHz:
Original stainless steel coil: R= 16.6 ohms
Rewound coil (silver-plated wire): R=1.2 ohms
* * *
Testing with the JPC-12 vertical and JPC-7 loaded dipole.
As noted earlier, the rewound coil was initially tested on the JPC-12 loaded vertical on 40 meters - mostly because it uses only a single coil and at that time I had rewound only one with silver-plated wire. While I was at it I decided to see if I could detect any difference in the current flowing through the coil at a given RF power output related with the use of the original (and lossy) stainless steel coil and the silver plated coil. Again, figure 7 shows this rewound coil with a thermal infrared camera just after a 60 second key-down at 75 watts, the temperature rise being just 3F (<2C).
Let us now consider the measured resistive losses of the coil (let's say 20 ohms for the stainless coil, 4 ohms for the silver-plated one) at 75 watts - the power at which we observed the temperature rise. As we know the approximate current to be expected (about 600mA at 20 watts as measured with a known-accurate thermocouple-type RF ammeter) we can calculate the apparent losses at 100 watts which would equate to about 40 watts for the stainless coil and 5.7 watts for the silver-plated coil. What this means is that nearly half of the power is lost in the stainless steel coil - but this still represents less than 1 "S" unit of loss. Footnote 2
Note: Judging by the ratio of the temperature rise between the two coils (3 degrees F for the silver-plated coil and 110F for the stainless) we would expect far greater difference in power loss between the two coils (more than 30-fold difference, so I'm likely missing something here).
Update: Based on the revised "Qu" measurements mentioned above (e.g. Q=766 with R=1.2 ohms at 6.6 MHz) the calculated thermal loss for the silver-plated coil is estimated to be 2.2 watts rather than 5.7 watts.
Once I had two silver-plated coils and two stainless steel coils, I could do a direct comparison on the JPC-7 loaded dipole. The JPC-7 is more or less a pair of JPC-12 vertical on their sides, fed with a balun - but rather than having the ground (radial) system to "push" against when radiating RF, it - being a dipole - used both elements against each other and the "ground" under - unlike the vertical where the ground/radial participates directly in current flow - is somewhat less affecting of the impedance, although the proximity of the ground does have the effect of lowering feedpoint resistance and resonant frequency. (As we are concerned only with "feeding" the antenna, we will ignore the antenna pattern.)
With the original stainless steel coils, the feedpoint resistance at resonance is "close enough" to 50 ohms to keep a radio without a tuner happy (it's actually lower than 50 ohms as noted below) - but consider that this means that each half of the dipole is closer to 25 ohms, the two being in series with each other: With two coils' losses now in the mix - and the fact that a given loss of a coil in a 50 ohm circuit as a percentage was about half that of the same amount of resistance in a 25 ohm circuit - the losses are arguably worse, but "split" between the two elements.
While I didn't have the opportunity to use the thermal infrared camera to measure the temperature rise of the stainless coils on the JPC-7, they both got rather hot to the touch after key-down at 75 watts, indicating a roughly comparable amount of loss as did the original stainless steel coil on the JPC-12 vertical: As with the vertical there was little change in temperature of the silver-plated coils.
Using a NanoVNA and minimal coax length Footnote 3 I set up the JPC-7 as per the the manufacturer's instructions on 40 meters: From the feed point there were two mast sections, the coil and then the telescoping rod on each side. Carefully setting the coils and the element lengths to yield the lowest "R" value (e.g. at resonance), I then noted the "feedpoint" resistance at resonance (where reactance, or "J" = 0) using the stainless steel and then the silver plated coils:
Stainless steel coils: 38 Ohms (1.32:1 VSWR)
Silver plated coils: 15 ohms (3.4:1 VSWR)
It's worth noting that these "feedpoint" readings were taken with the supplied 1:1 balun inline along with a short length of coaxial cable so the above readings are NOT precisely those of the actual feedpoint resistance: There is likely a bit of loss and transformation occurring in the aforementioned set-up so the absolute numbers above may not reflect the actual feedpoint resistance itself. I also observed that on the JPC-7, the (normalized) 2:1 VSWR bandwidth was lower with the silver-plated coil - an expected effect with higher Q resonator coils.
Note:On higher bands (e.g. 20 meters and up) the feedpoint impedance was much closer to 50 ohms with either coil and it's likely that nothing special will need to be done to keep a radio "happy".
One might be tempted at first to think that because of the higher VSWR,the silver plated coil constituted an antenna that was "worse" - but that would be wrong - this actually indicates the opposite. What this measurement shows us is that the apparent total resistanceof the two silver plated coils at 40 meters was 23 ohms less(about 11.5 ohms for each coil) than that of the silver plated coil - and this increased resistance is what accounts for the power being lost as heat.
This realization still leaves us with the problem that if we take away much of the loss of the coils we lowerthe feedpoint resistance which means that we can end up with a rather high VSWR - of over 3:1 - meaning that many radios won't be particularly happy with the situation without throwing a tuner into the mix. This leaves us with several options:
Pretend we didn't see this and continue using the stainless steel coils. This is an obvious choice and I can attest that both the JPC-7 and JPC-12 antennas do work pretty well despite the loss of the coil, but personally, I can't "un-see" the lossy nature of these coils, so that's not an option for me. As a "portable" antenna is all about compromise of performance, I prefer to minimize the deleterious effects of as many aspects of this "compromise" as I reasonably can.
Use an antenna tuner. Placing a tuner at the antenna is the preferred choice as it will minimize mismatch losses that will result if the tuner is placed at the far end of the cable feeding the antenna (e.g. in the radio.) Whether the magnitude of mismatched loss of the cable when the tuner is placed at the distal (radio) end of the feedline to match the lower-loss silver-plated coil is worse than using no tuner at all with the stainless steel coil cannot be easily answered without knowing the properties of the coax used and how a specific tuner works under the impedance conditions that it might see.
Rework the balun. The JPC-7 has a 1:1 balun (one that isn't very "balanced" - but that's another topic) but it is clear that you could choose a balun that inherently provides a suitable transformation - but more than one such balun would be required to cover all bands.
Autotransformer. A tapped autotransformer used to be a common "thing" many years ago for matching short verticals (e.g. mobile installations) to deal with the low feedpoint resistances at resonance - often well under 20 ohms for a low-loss coil. These devices seem to be less common these days, but if you look carefully they may still be found on the surplus market - namely the Atlas MT-1 and Swan/Cubic/Siltronix MMBX, both of which offer selections of impedances that will easily yield 1.5:1 VSWR or better at any likely feedpoint resistance at and below 50 ohms. I have tested the Atlas MT-1 (by putting two units back-to-back) and found a single unit to have about 0.2dB of loss on 40 meters which theoretically represents about 5% power loss. (Useful articles about RF autotransformers may be found in the November 1976 issue of "Ham Radio" magazine - link and the December, 1982 QST - link.)
As mentioned previously, the losses of the stainless steel coil are "about an S-unit" on the lower bands so the user would have to weigh the benefits of the potential losses incurred by matching a silver-plated coil and additional matching versus just using the stainless steel coil and getting a more convenient match and just "eating" the losses.
Conclusion:
The reader should not go away thinking that antennas using loading coils wound with stainless steel wire don't work: They do - and can be quite effective - but...
In my measurements, the losses added by the stainless steel coils amounted to roughly "an S-unit" (more or less) in a worst-case situation for the vertical antenna and somewhat more than this for the loaded dipole. I have very successfully used both antennas with their original stainless steel coils for portable, remote and POTA operations with good results. The difference of "about an S-unit" may be an issue for marginal situations using SSB, but it's less likely to be a problem for CW or digital modes under the same band conditions and distances where the signal margins are more favorable for weak signals.
As electrically-small HF antennas will often have lower feedpoint resistance than their full-sized counterparts this means that intentionally using low-loss coils can shift the impedance well below 50 ohms, complicating the matching of the radio to it - particularly in the case of the loaded dipole: The use of a radio's built-in antenna tuner - particularly with a long length of coax - may well incur losses greater than those of the lossy stainless steel coil without a tuner.
I'm guessing that the use of stainless steel wire for the coils is at least partly a result of it "simplifying" the operation of a portable antenna by resistively (lossily!) providing a feedpoint resistance closer to 50 ohms. From a standpoint of operational simplicity and cost (both avoiding more complicated matching arrangements) the use of stainless steel - and simply "eating" the power loss - may be a reasonable compromise for most users.
But, it's not as simple as that. The above is certainly true for the loaded dipole where the feedpoint resistance ends up being quite low (15 ohms on 40 meters) but for the vertical - where more variables are at play (e.g. lengths of radials, length of vertical resonator) one can easily attain a good match (<2:1) to 50 ohms even with the lower loss of the silver plated inductor coming into play.
All of the above should also point to something else: In my respective articles about the JPC-7 and JPC-12 antennas I noted that performance could be improved by making them electrically "larger" (e.g. the addition of a top hat to the JPC-12 and "droop" wires on the JPC-7) which both reduces the amount of loading inductance and likely increases the feedpoint resistance - both of which contribute to improved efficiency.
Should you toss or rewind your stainless steel loading coil in favor of something using lower-loss material? If you are trying to eke out every last bit of efficiency from your portable antenna and are prepared to deal with the possibility of slightly more complicated matching requirements (at least on the lower HF bands like 40 and 30 meters) to deal with potentially low feedpoint resistance - then perhaps. If you operate a lot of SSB, operate using high power (>= 100 watts) and/or high duty cycle, it may well be worth doing what you can to reduce at least one of the sources of loss of these types of portable antenna systems and a potential failure point due to heat.
* * * * *
Footnotes:
This silver-plated jewelry wire that I used is varnished, so it's not
actually bare - but this poses no problem with this project: The
protective coating is pierced when the new wire is clamped under the
posts and the slider easily "bites" through it, so there is absolutely no need to
strip it. The varnish on the rest of the coil offers protection from
oxidation and while silver oxide is a reasonably good conductor, unoxidized silver is much better, so the coating is left intact.
The term "S Unit" is occasionally used in this article, but always with a bit of "hand waving" indicative of its ambiguity. An "official" international definition of an S Unit is a 6 dB difference in signal level according to IARU Region 1 Technical Recommendation R.1 (where "S9" = -73dBm into 50 ohms - link). While U.S.-made radios and many SDR programs use this definition by default, Japanese radios are often calibrated with 3 dB S-units meaning that for these radios, smaller amounts of signal change are more strongly indicated. The reader should always note that while modern SDR-based receivers often do have reasonably good relative signal indications (e.g. the S-meter moves as it should for given changes in signal level) this is likely nottrue for older, analog radios.
For both transmitter and VNA testing, minimal coax length was used. For the former, a very short (15cm) coax jumper was used, connected directly between the radio and the antenna feed, the radio being powered by battery. For the VNA, the instrument was connected similarly - the 15cm coax for the JPC-12 and hanging directly from the JPC-7's balun - to minimize possible effects of common-mode RF currents on the antenna. In real-world operation this would be emulated by using an effective common-mode choke as close to the antenna feed as possible.
Related articles:
Observations, analysis and field use of the JPC-7 portable "dipole" antenna - link.
Observations, analysis and modifications of the JPC-12 vertical antenna - link.
The Frankentenna consists of parts from three different antennas to create a 25 foot tall vertical non resonant radiator that when combined with a remote antenna tune results in amazing performance on the bands. Join me at the Plover River State Fishery and Wildlife Area (POTA US-10054) in North Central Wisconsin as I put this park on the air.
As a bonus, patrons can view the full, unedited phone contacts for this Parks on the Air activation. Visit my page on Patreon for details: https://www.patreon.com/kb9vbrantennas
I do return QSL, if you made a contact with me and would like a QSL, please send me one. Return postage not necessary, but always appreciated. As they say, KB9VBR is ‘good in the book.
Links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This does not affect the price you pay.
CaHRTenna Poseidon is the Coffee and Ham Radio’s take on the popular Rybakov vertical non resonant antenna. Today we’ll talk about Poseidon, show you how to build your own, and put the Greek god of the sea on the air.
Coffee and Ham Radio’s Poseidon is based on an antenna called the Rybakov. That antenna, created by Italian ham IV3SBE about 20 years ago is a non resonant ground ground mounted vertical antenna with a radiating element of 25 feet. At the feed point is a 4:1 unun or transformer to match the 200 ohm impedance the antenna presents. Radials of about a similar length provide the ground network for the antenna. With a tuner, the antenna will operate on the 80 through 6 meter bands, although it gets pretty inefficient on 40 meters and below. Your best performance will be on the higher bands and this style of antenna really excels on 10, 12, and 15 meters. As you get higher in frequency, the RF radiation angle gets lower and lower, making it an excellent DX antenna.
But why the name Rybakov? When IV3SBE designed the antenna, he envisioned it being supported by an 8 meter fishing pole. The antenna’s 25 foot length makes it perfect to deploy with a lightweight mast or fishing pole. Rybakov is Russian for fisherman, so it makes sense to give the fishing pole antenna that name.
Coffee and Ham Radios did send me a Poseidon vertical antenna kit to build and put on the air in exchange for a video. But my opinions are my own and there is no outside influence. So let’s head inside, build this antenna, and then put it on the air.
Screenshot
So what makes Poseidon different? I believe the key difference lies in the transformer. If you look at most 4:1 unun designs, they use a red T200 style toroid. The red toroids work well and offer very good overall efficiency, but a key design element of this antenna was to make is tunable with a transceiver’s internal tuner. That means you will need an SWR that’s 3:1 or less over the entire frequency range the antenna is designed for. Unfortunately the T200 isn’t up to that and you will get higher impedances at the lower frequencies. This green colored iron powder core that’s used in Poseidon offers an overall better impedance matching at a wider range of frequencies, with a slight tradeoff of efficiency. Is the tradeoff worth it? It is if you don’t want to bring an extra piece of gear out into the field. Also consider, lower impedance coming out of the antenna means less losses in your feed line. So overall, its a valid choice to make.
The second consideration with this antenna is that 4:1 transformers can pass along common mode currents, causing the outer shield of your feed line to radiate. This will affect your antenna’s radiation pattern. Proper 4:1 windings will also include a second toroid would as a 1:1 choke. In order to make this antenna easier to build, Poseidon does not use the double toroid winding, instead you will need a choke of some sort on your coaxial cable. Today I’ll be using an integrated choke on my feed line for this antenna.
It’s a POTA road trip! I head out to activate three new to me parks while using a different antenna at each one. Ride along with me for an epic Parks on the Air activation as we find out which one will be the best
As a bonus, patrons can view the full, unedited phone contacts for this Parks on the Air activation. Visit my page on Patreon for details: https://www.patreon.com/kb9vbrantennas
I do return QSL, if you made a contact with me and would like a QSL, please send me one. Return postage not necessary, but always appreciated. As they say, KB9VBR is ‘good in the book.
N9SAB sent over a care package filed with lightweight, efficient, stealthy antennas for portable and fixed station ham radio use. Let's unbox them together!
January 13, 2024: To most people, Hatley Wisconsin is blip on Highway 29 in eastern Marathon County. Driving past at 65 mph, you probably notice the gas station, the Dollar General, and maybe the large Catholic church. This little village of about 500 people is more of bedroom community for the larger Wausau metro area. There was a veneer factory that is long gone and the rail line that established the village in the late 19th century was converted to a state trail about a 100 years later. And this connection is what brings me to Hatley for a Parks on the Air activation of the entity, K-9806 Mountain-Bay State Trail.
I’ve written two prior blog posts about the Mountain-Bay, so I won’t go into a lot of that detail, you can read more about the trail, here and here.
The Mountain-Bay runs the entire length of the community, but there is one particular spot that I prefer to operate from, The parking area of the Hatley public library. This parking lot is the local trailhead and it is also the crossing point of the Ice Age National Scenic Trail K-4238. Setting up here gives me a twofer: activating two Parks on the Air entities at one time. I also like this spot as it is a short, 20 minute drive from my home.
Weather
I normally don’t say a whole lot about the weather in my activations, but this time it’s significant. We had just come off of a major winter storm. The southern and eastern part of the state received up to a foot or more of snow, while the northern tier fared much better. In Wausau we got just under five inches. But the snow is only part of it. On the tail end of the storm were blustery winds and frigid temperatures. We’ve been lucky for most of the winter, experiencing above normal temperatures, but this storm ushered in a deep freeze with air temps below zero Fahrenheit and wind chills -20 and colder. Fortunately on Saturday, when I did the activation, the temperature was still around 19, but it wouldn’t stay like that for long.
After getting the driveway and sidewalk cleared, and the car scraped off, I drove east on some marginally clear county roads until I got to Hatley to activate the Mountain-Bay State Trail.
Setup
For this activation, I went back to my old standby antenna, the 1/4 wave vertical. Looking at the POTA spots page, I noticed that there was a fair amount of activity on the 15 meter band. The solar forecast also showed favorable conditions for the upper bands. I didn’t feel like dealing with the hoards of operators that comes with a 20 meter activation, so I set the antenna up for 15 meters.
With my vertical, I have three choices for the ground network: radial wires (I use 8 16 foot radials), a 36×84 inch aluminum window screen, or a 42×108 inch piece of Faraday cloth. It was cold and windy, and I felt the faraday cloth would be the fastest to deploy.
For the most part it was, except the wind was taking the cloth everywhere. I didn’t have any weights or branches to hold the cloth down, so I did the next best thing. I grabbed several chunks of frozen snow from the snow pile at the edge of the parking lot. This provided enough weight to keep the cloth in place even though the winds were gusting up to 20 mph.
In setting up the vertical, I extended the whip and sort of eyeballed its length. I’ve gotten pretty good at doing this as when I check the vertical on my analyzer, I was coming in at 1.44:1 on 15 meters. That’s good enough for me so I left it at that.
For the rest of the setup, I got out the Yaesu FT-891, 20ah LiFePO4 battery, headset, and logging computer running Hamrs. The radio was set to 50 watts transmit power. I like to set the radio on the front dash of the car and sit in the passenger seat. That gives me plenty of legroom and no steering wheel to contend with.
Activation
Turning on the radio and tuning to 15 meters, the first thing I noticed was the noise. Background noise was coming in at about an S5. Usually this area is pretty quiet with an S1-S2 noise floor, so the higher noise level was a bit unexpected. I’m guessing this was atmospheric as there isn’t any industry in Hatley, and being a Saturday, any noise generating businesses would be closed. Despite the noise, when I started calling CQ, the contacts started to roll in and and most everyone as at or above the noise level, so copying stations wasn’t that difficult. Once I got established on the band, contacts rolled in at a steady rate, not overwhelming, but steady. I seemed to have a pretty good path to the west coast, getting many California stations, along with the northwest and rocky mountain states. I logged 82 contacts on 15 meters in about an hour.
As 15 meters was slowing for me, I decided to jump to another band to finish out the activation. Still not wanted to go to 20 meters, I did the next best thing and set up on 17m. Extending the whip a bit, I was able to get a really good match, with an SWR of about about 1.1:1. Again that was mostly by eyeballing the whip length as I extended it. Noise on 17m was almost worse than on 15m. Not only was it still at an S5, but I also had a buzzing and clicking in the background that made copying weaker stations very difficult.
I had more pileups on 17 meters than I did on 15m as was evidenced by my run time, 70 contacts in 40 minutes. I also got some DX on 17m: Alaska, Dominican Republic, and Barbados. The band was open but noisy. The clock hit 2:30pm local time and I have over 150 in the log. I was also nearing the limits of my listening to the noise, so when there was a lull in the contacts, I did ‘last call’, got two stragglers, heard nothing else, and shut down.
Conclusion
This was my 5th activation of the Mountain-Bay State Trail, netting 152 contacts on 15 and 17 meters. So far at this park, I’ve made 742 contacts and worked 5 bands and I’m pretty much the leader at this park. So ignoring 20 meters wasn’t so bad (In one activation I did 20 meters exclusively and made 209 contacts). I’ll come out here again, most likely on a Friday afternoon and do a big 20 meter activation to give the park more exposure.
The snow chunks kept my faraday cloth in place, it didn’t blow away that afternoon. A couple of the sections on my whip had frozen, I’m guessing there may have been a touch of moisture inside the whip from a previous activation. But they broke free, it wasn’t enough to totally freeze them in place.
And finally, staying warm. In weather like this I can usually operate for about an hour in the vehicle before I have to stop, start the engine and warm up. I keep the engine off during activations to help reduce noise. My fingers are the first to feel the cold, but I was parked facing south and got just enough afternoon sun to help keep things warm inside the car. I didn’t have to pause to warm things up again. I’ve got a few strategies for staying warm during cold weather POTA activities and that will be the topic of a video in a week or so.
K-9806 Mountain Bay State Trail 15m contacts with 1/4 wave vertical antenna
K-9806 Mountain Bay State Trail 17m contacts with 1/4 wave vertical antenna
Mountain Bay State Trail passes through the communities of Wausau, Weston, Hatley, Norrie, Eland, Bowler, Shawano, Bonduel, Pulaski, Anston, Howard, Green Bay. A State Trail Pass needed for bicycle and horseback riding
Gabil’s GRA-7350TC is a compact vertical antenna that is designed for portable operations. The antenna itself is relatively lightweight and consists of three componants: a 102 inch telescoping whip, an adjustable section with internal loading coil, and an additional coil for the 80 meter band. You can also add an option compact portable tripod to complete the set. I previously used the Gabil system last fall and was not terribly impressed by it’s performance. Either the antenna was being lackluster or the bands weren’t in my favor.
I decided to give the antenna another shot. I like how the GRC-7350tc is compact and my hope is that it will be a foundational element of my growing QRP kit. As I’ve been used to running the full 1/4 wave whip on 20 meters and above, I think my expectations have been set pretty high in how the Gabil is to perform. But I gave it another shot.
November 24, 2023, the day after Thanksgiving, is known as black Friday to the rest of the world, but being self employed, the boss (me) gave me the afternoon off. I used the time to give the Gabil another test and to activate one of our newer POTA entities: K-9806 Mountain-Bay State Trail.
Mountain Bay State Trail
The Mountain-Bay State Trail runs for 83 miles from the western terminus at Weston, Wisconsin eastward to Green Bay. As it’s name implies, it is to connect Rib Mountain in the center of the state to the Green Bay near Lake Michigan. This corridor is an old Chicago and Northwestern rail line, which makes for a easy and beautiful ride. I like to set up at a trailhead in Hatley, Wisconsin in the Marathon County Public Library’s Hatley branch parking lot. At this point the Mountain-Bay intersects with the Ice Age National Scenic Trail (POTA K-4238) for a twofer.
It is getting chilly so I’ve switched to operating out of the vehicle. My preferred setup is to put the Yaesu FT-881 on the dashboard of the vehicle and sit in the passenger seat so I’m not encumbered by the steering wheel of the car. For an antenna I’ll be running the Gabil GRC-7350TC vertical. The library is closed today so I have a practically empty parking lot to work with. The antenna was set up about 15 feet away from the car on the edge of the parking lot. Instead of using the window screen ground, I used 8 16 foot ground radial wires. The manufacturer recommend 4 10 meter wires, but I’ve had better luck with more, shorter radials, so I put my proven radial bundles to work. First up, the 15 meter band.
Tuning the Gabil is a bit finicky. Moving the coil slider up and down, you can easily miss your mark, so it takes very small movements once you are in the ballpark to find the perfect spot. On the 15 meter band I was able to get the SWR down to about 1.44:1, which was good enough for me. I’m not one to fiddle until it’s perfect, so if it is in the neighborhood of good, I’m fine with that.
Activation
The solar forecast for that day called for active conditions, I believe there was a solar storm predicted for later in the weekend but Friday had good numbers with the SFI over 170 and the A of 8 and the K of 2. As I started out on 15 meters, the conditions were slow with a lot of fading, but things kind of settled out and I consistently received good signal reports. I had a good, long run on 15 meters, about 110 contacts. No DX but plenty of Canadien stations. Since the band was hot, I decided to move up to 10 meters.
With conditions like this, we need to spend more time seeking out contacts on 10 meters. I had a bit of concern with tuning the antenna as an 102 inch whip is close to a 1/4 wave on 10 meters, so I anticipated that I wouldn’t need to use much coil. And sure enough, I was hardly at the -1- setting on the laser engraved scale. I got the SWR to about 1.5:1. Nothing special, but good enough. Calling on 10 meters, I racked up 15 contacts in about a half hour. Not like the run on 15 meters, but still respectable.
Since I was doing well, I decided to give 12 meters a try. Futzing with the coil, I got a match and we soon rolling. I picked up 8 contacts in about 8 minutes, including two stations: VE1BQC and KR5EEE that I worked earlier in the day on 15 meters. I also got an interloper that waltzed through my frequency and let me know ‘contesting’ isn’t allowed on the WARC bands. Fortunately POTA isn’t a contest so I didn’t give him the time of day.
To finish things up, I dropped down to 40 meters. I had activated the Mountain-Bay trail two week prior and had a long 200 contact run on 20 meters, so I felt like this time I could skip that band and concentrate on some of the others. Getting a match on 40 meters was a little more difficult. It could be partly because the coil has a higher Q on that band, or maybe my shorter radials are to blame, but I could only get it to about 2:1. That’s a bit on the edge for my tastes, but 2:1 match is only an 11% power loss and as long as the radio doesn’t complain too much, I’ll go with it.
Let’s just say that the losses weren’t much of an issue as I had no problem, at 3:00 in the afternoon local time (21:00z) in attracting a crowd. I ran for 15 minutes and got 25 stations with mostly good signal reports. I was at about 7207 KHz, so by this time the international broadcasters were starting to filter in. Which was fine as the sun was getting low in the sky. So I packed it up.
Conclusion
All in all, I netted 157 contacts on the Mountain-Bay State Trail that afternoon. Not too bad of a haul on an antenna that I initially panned in my review. Using the Gabil GRC-7350TC again, I have have thoughts on its performance. First off, the antenna works better on the upper bands than the lower ones. I hit the time of day right with my 40 meter activation, later in the afternoon as the sun was starting to set. The broadcasters hadn’t totally overrun the band and being a holiday weekend, there were people looking for me. 15 meters and above, I can really see this antenna excelling.
Second, a good ground network reallly is key for this antenna. You are at a compromise with the lack of radiator, so a substantial radial pattern will really make a difference. A greater number of shorter radials will actually increase your gain on the upper bands than fewer, longer, radials will. This article by Rudy Severns, N6LF, explains why that is the case. I’m going to have to experiment using the window screen with this antenna. The Gabil tripod is non-conductive so jumper wires are necessary to get good continuity with ground mesh. But I will give it a shot and report my results.
I’m not ready to dismiss the Gabil antenna, but won’t quite throw my full-throated support to it. I think it fills a portable operation niche and will take it places where my 1/4 vertical and large metal tripod are too cumbersome to travel.
K-9806 Mountain Bay State Trail 15m contacts with GRC-7350tc antenna
K-9806 Mountain Bay State Trail 10m contacts with GRC-7350tc antenna
K-9806 Mountain Bay State Trail 40m contacts with GRC-7350tc antenna
Mountain Bay State Trail passes through the communities of Wausau, Weston, Hatley, Norrie, Eland, Bowler, Shawano, Bonduel, Pulaski, Anston, Howard, Green Bay. A State Trail Pass needed for bicycle and horseback riding
Looking for a portable and easy-to-use HF antenna? The Chelegance MC-750 Portable HF Vertical Antenna is designed to provide a hassle-free setup process and an efficient, high-performance antenna for portable ham radio operations.
Introduction:
If you are looking for a portable and easy-to-use HF vertical antenna, then the Chelegance MC-750 Portable HF Vertical Antenna system is worth considering. These antennas are designed to provide quick and effortless setup without requiring tools, making it ideal for field operations and emergency services.
Features:
The MC-750 Portable HF Vertical Antenna is built to provide an efficient quarter-wave vertical ground plane antenna for 40 through 6 meters. It can handle up to 100 watts and features a female SO-239 connector and jacks for up to 4 preassembled, 11.48 ft. counterpoise radials. Additionally, the antenna comes with a 7 MHz loading coil, 1.64 ft. extension, 17 ft. telescopic whip, and a cable winder, all packed in a carrying bag for easy portability.
Takeaways:
The Chelegance MC-750 Portable HF Vertical Antenna provides a hassle-free setup process. The antenna offers good efficiency for a compromised portable ground based antenna. The telescoping whip and preassembled radials make it easy to get on the air quickly, while the included carrying bag makes it easy to pack and transport.
How To:
Setting up the MC-750 is simple and straightforward. First, unpack the kit and extend the telescoping whip to its full length. Next, attach the 7 MHz loading coil to the base of the antenna and connect the antenna to your radio using a coaxial cable with a PL-259 connector. Finally, lay out the preassembled radials on the ground in a star pattern, ensuring that they are evenly spaced, and connect them to the antenna base.
FAQ:
Q: How does the Chelegance MC-750 Portable HF Vertical Antennas perform on different bands? A: The MC-750 is designed to operate on the 40 (with loading coil) through 6 meter bands.
Q: What is the maximum power handling capacity of the MC-750? A: The MC-750 can handle up to 100 watts of power.
The Chelegance JNCRadio MC-750 portable HF antenna, is a good choice for portable or emergency use. It is easy to set up and comes in a compact well designed case for easy transport. The reference marks etched into the antenna sections make it easy to get the SWR in the ballpark,
Note that the antenna base/spike does not use the standard 3/8×24 mount. The base uses a metric M-10-1.5 thread so other antenna systems like the MFJ-1979 would require some type of adapter.
In terms of performance, the Chelegance MC-750 is a reliable ground-based vertical antenna that provides decent RX and TX capabilities for the 20 meter band and up. The 40 meter loading coil is a compromise at best but will get you on 40 meters. The Chelegance MC-750 is a good option for situations where no trees are available or quick activations are in mind.
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