If you thought Parks on the Air (POTA) was the only portable operation event in town, meet BOTA.

Beaches on the Air promotes ham radio portable operation from beaches. BOTA has awards for activators (those who operate at the beaches) and chasers (those who contact them). Radio amateurs can participate from any beach, country, or region around the world. The program brings together thousands of hams from six continents, and new ones are joining every day.

BOTA now lists more than 30,000 beaches and they’re constantly adding new beaches as they become active. You may activate the same beach as many times as you like, gaining additional points each time. There are no restrictions on how you travel to the activation location or the power source you use for your station. BOTA invites you to submit your beach activation images and videos.

Besides promoting fun amateur radio practices, the program offers other benefits as well. It encourages participants to get out of their shacks, do mild exercise, increase their vitamin D levels, and work on their tans. It’s also relaxing to sit on the beach and sip your favorite beverage. Kick back, chill, and leisurely log those contacts. Don’t forget to tell everyone what a wonderful time you’re having during your QSOs.

Beach Operation

Conditions at the beach are quite different from POTA, IOTA, SOTA, and other ‘OTA activations. Be aware of tide schedules, high winds, and changes in weather. Locate yourself where you won’t have to constantly move away from an incoming high tide.

You’ll likely be inclined to bring more things: beach chairs, umbrellas, coolers, and other items. After all, it’s also a trip to the beach. Be realistic about what you can comfortably carry—sometimes it’s a long walk.

Five-gallon utility buckets are great for carrying coax, antenna parts, tools, and other supplies. After you’ve emptied it, the bucket can be flipped over and used as a stand for the radio. A pack seat will also fit in the bucket and give you a place to sit or set up additional equipment. Tote bags or backpacks will help keep your radios protected.

Securing your antenna properly is important. Most operators prefer a lightweight telescoping pole at the beach, like those from DX Commander or SOTAbeams, to hold a 1/4 wave of wire. These poles have a minimal wind load and those <31 feet will generally not need guys. To make them freestanding, you’ll need a sand spike—a tube for holding fishing rods or beach umbrella holder that screws into the sand. Be sure the bottom of the pole will fit inside before you invest in one.

The beach’s biggest draw for hams is the “saltwater amplifier,” nature’s reflector for your signals. Forget burying a batch of radials in the sand because you only need one. Run it toward the water at the edge of the waves or tie a fishing weight to the end and give it a toss into the waves. Add a quarter-wave wire vertical and you’re good to go. Using the saltwater ocean as counterpoise can give you up to a 10 dB gain. A 10W QRP signal becomes a 100W signal with a very simple antenna system—really awesome!

Getting Started with BOTA

Interested? First, create an account at BeachesontheAir.com. While you’re waiting for your registration to be processed, search for activators listed on the website. Listen to a few QSOs, then call when they’re on the air. The activating station will provide you with a code during the exchange.

After you receive the code over the air from the activator, sign into the BOTA site. Under the user menu, select “Add chaser report redeem code.” Enter the code. If you have just made the QSO, click yes and add the frequency and mode so a spot is placed on the BOTA home page.

You can also keep a log and enter it all later. You have one month to enter the code. If for some reason you have forgotten the code, you can enter the activator’s call sign and then choose the activation site. Activators and chasers are not required to submit logs.

When you’re ready, plan to become an activator. You’ll go to the BOTA website and choose “Announce activation, Generate code.” Search for your beach and complete the information required. Once saved, the Admin will review the beach. If there are no issues, it will be added to the system.

There’s also a Beaches on the Air Facebook group where you can find additional information.

BOTA Operation Procedures

Here’s a basic summary of the definitions, rules, and procedures:

Beach Activation Boundary: Defined as the area between the water and the road that runs parallel to the beach. This usually includes beach car parks and may include grassed areas, paths, etc. Keep in mind the program is “Beaches on the Air,” not “Across the road from a beach on the air.”

• Setup Location: Activators can set up a portable station or activate from a vehicle. Activators should abide by local laws regarding the setup of a portable station and obey any directives given by local authorities regarding station setup. Activators need to be aware of other beach users around them and always make sure that their setup is safe for themselves and others.
• Operating Frequencies and Modes: Any amateur radio frequency can be used and all modes are permitted where the activation code can be clearly transmitted. Repeater contacts don’t count.
• Multi-Person Activations: When two or more stations are activating from the same beach at the same time, all activators need to individually set up their information on the system and use their individual activation code over the air with their chasers. Each activator should take their own photo of the activation site and later upload it. There is no club/team scoring.
• Repeat Activations: It is possible to activate two or more different beaches on the same day using different codes, but you must physically move your entire setup from one activation to the other. There’s a minimum one-hour break between the end of an activation and the start of a different one on a different beach.

The post Getting Started with BOTA, Beaches on the Air appeared first on OnAllBands.

Everyone wants to improve their signal quality, work more DX stations, make more QSOs, and earn higher contest scores.

Should you buy an amplifier or beef up your antenna system?

Both are good ideas, but is amping up worth the additional investment?

What’s in Your Ham Station?

For starters, let’s assume that you have a typical shack. Your 100W transceiver connects to a coax-fed dipole (or several) through a built-in or external antenna tuner. Thanks to the tuner, your rig can put out full power regardless of actual antenna/feedline SWR on the various bands you work. You use the same basic setup as most of your ham friends and the guys in the local radio clubs. 

If everyone has been using this setup, it must be good, right?  Maybe, maybe not. You tune in some stations calling CQ, but for some reason they don’t always answer your reply. Maybe it’s band conditions, or a stronger station is overpowering your signal. Shouldn’t it be easier than this?

You pause for a moment and dream about adding an Acom 1000 HF+6 Meter Linear Amplifier to your station (see below). Certainly, 1kW will help you kick butt in a DX pileup and let you cut though all the noise and interference. Flip the switch, tune, and be heard!

Then reality sets in and you go back to making calls with your 100W radio.

Although you may not know it, you can likely get more signal for a lot less money. Rather than shelling out thousands for an amp up front, I’d suggest you try a three-step approach to getting your signal heard. Utilizing all three will get you the best results in the long run, but you may find improving your antenna system is enough.

***

A 3-Step Approach for Improving Your Ham Radio Signal

***

Step 1: Skill vs. Brute Force

Anyone can fire up a monster amplifier and generate a loud signal—and many do. It doesn’t take a whole lot of skill to muscle your way through a pileup with a legal-limit amp and snag that rare station.

But you can also practice your operating skills, which won’t cost you a thing.

Skill has tangled with brute force for a long time. Take the Marvel Universe, for instance. The Hulk relies on brute force, fueled by anger. His strength continues to increase until he’s strong enough to take out his enemy. In contrast, Captain America has skills like marksmanship and martial arts, and is an expert tactician and field commander.

Point is, although Captain America is an enhanced soldier, those skills are really his superpower—so develop your operator superpowers and make yourself heard!

One strategy I learned is to transmit on a frequency slightly above the main pileup or the last station worked. The DX station will often explore the upper edge of a pileup if he can’t pick out calls from the main section of the pile.

Another is to delay for a second or so sending your call so the last letter or two extend past the main buzz of the pileup. In my case, the station would then hear the “SH” and send “SH?” Then I send my call again and make the QSO. Timing is everything.

Also, CW and digital modes will give you significantly more mileage than SSB. Generally, they work well at power levels of 100W or less, but you should use 30W or less for digital to keep from damaging your finals.

Step 2: Budget-Friendly Renovations

Consider updating your antenna system as the next step to improving your signal. One way to improve your signal is to move antennas higher in the air. Build a taller mast, find a taller tree, or put up a tower.

If that dipole just isn’t cutting it, try a new secret weapon—a full-wave horizontal loop set as high as possible. Feed it with coax and use a tuner on bands above the fundamental frequency. That’s a quick and relatively easy way to snag an extra 2 to 10 dB, depending on frequency. 

Changing the feedline can mean more dBs. Disconnect the coax feedline from your dipole and replace it with 450-ohm ladder line. By using low-loss 450-ohm line you’ll likely experience a 6 to 20 dB increase.

If coax feed is your only option, upgrade to a lower-loss coax. For example, you’ll gain 0.7 dB by switching from RG-8X to 400Max and 1.3 dB by replacing RG-58 with RG-8X–based on 100 feet @30MHz. Minimize the number of connectors, switches, and adapters in your feedline system to prevent additional loss.

For less than the price of an entry-level amplifier, you can buy a Cushcraft A3S tri-band beam antenna and a medium-duty rotator. This pair, mounted reasonably high above ground, will offer a 5 to 7 dB steerable improvement to your signal. By rotating a directional antenna, you can often achieve a twofer—boosting the signal you’re trying to receive while attenuating unwanted signals.

On SSB, activate your rig’s speech processor with the proper settings. There’s another 3 dB (or more) improvement, this time in the modulation department—no purchase necessary.

Step 3: Power Trip

If you can hear people but they can’t hear you, it may be time to consider an amplifier. Most amateur radio operators find that when they use a reasonable antenna system, 500 to 800W of amplifier output is usually enough power. These midrange amplifiers also use readily available 120 VAC, so there’s no need to add a 240VAC line to your shack.

An amplifier that produces 750 to 800W of output power will have a 9 dB gain advantage over the 100W signal, which is about 1 1/2 S units. If you go from 750 to 1,500W, you will have a 3 dB advantage, which is only one half of an S unit. So why go to 1,500W? If you are in a DX pileup, that 3 dB may be enough for you to be heard over the other stations. 

If you operate on the lower bands—160 or 80m—there’s an added reason to get yourself an amp. Manmade and atmospheric noise can make communicating a challenge. The primary problem is thunderstorm activity. It creates radio noise that is reflected off the ionosphere just like regular radio signals. I’ve participated in nets on both 160 and 80m and recommend using an amp capable of 1 kW or more for reliable communications.

Wait…There’s More

Buying a new amp has a domino effect. You’ll need a beefier antenna tuner and wattmeter to handle the increased power, not to mention upgrading your antenna system to accommodate the extra power. A 240VAC line is mandatory for larger amps running at full power. Materials and an electrician to install them will likely run several hundred dollars more.

Keep in mind that once you have the power, you’ll want more—not less. You’ll also note that even a basic 500 to 800W amplifier will set you back $1,500 or more. Buy the best you can afford and use it responsibly. 

Here are some amplifier candidates to consider at DXEngineering.com, including the FlexRadio Power Genius XL below.

To Buy or Not to Buy a Ham Radio Amplifier

After looking at the facts, how much improvement does your station need? As always, the choice is yours. Amplifiers are the final option, especially after you’ve honed your skills and tweaked your antenna farm. Add a 10 dB amplifier to a 7 dB beam antenna and you’ve got a 17 dB improvement in signal strength.

When conditions are poor, an amp can make the difference between being heard and being lost in the noise.

The post Ham Radio 101: Do I Really Need an Amplifier? appeared first on OnAllBands.

What’s your idea of the perfect tuner? Here’s my wish list:

• Easy to operate
• Finds and remembers settings
• Covers 160-6 meters
• Matches just about anything you can throw at it
• Automatic operation

There are some good candidates out there, like the FlexRadio Tuner Genius XL. It will convince your radio that it’s connected to a 50-ohm antenna system—or close to it.

This review is based on the Tuner Genius XL (TGXL) 1×3 model, but there’s also an SO2R version.

Both are identical except for the antenna interface. Two transceivers and two antennas can be connected simultaneously on the SO2R model. The 1×3 version accommodates one transceiver and up to three connected antennas. During operation, one of three antennas is selected.

On both models, switching is done via remote control by LAN, serial interface, or individual signals from the transceiver.

FlexRadio Tuner Genius XL Features

The Tuner Genius XL is the first self-contained SO2R (single operator, two radio) tuner in the amateur market. This tuner covers 1.8 MHz to 54 MHz with the ability to tune up to 10:1 SWR. All functions can be controlled either from the front panel of the tuner or by using a Windows computer software application. This allows the Tuner Genius XL to be moved off the desktop to a more convenient location, while still maintaining full control by computer.

Handling up to 2,000W ICAS of power, the Tuner Genius XL has considerable headroom above the 1,500W legal limit. Accurate peak responding RF power and SWR meter displays are also provided, so you really don’t need a separate watt/SWR meter in your shack. The easy-to-read 4.5-inch color display is centered on the front panel.

Electrically, the TGXL is a pi network tuner with three changeable elements, a series inductor with two capacitors to ground—one at the input and the other at the output. A pi network is a good choice for matching the relatively low 50-ohm impedance of a transmitter and relatively high and unknown impedances of an antenna system. The combination of discrete L or C components determines each network element’s value—one of 255 possible values. This provides 255³ (16,581,375) possible matching combinations. Because the matching circuit also forms a low pass filter, it also provides additional harmonic suppression.

All of this is enclosed in a sturdy metal case, resembling the FlexRadio Power Genius XL companion amplifier. The Tuner Genius XL provides three operational modes: standby, operate, and bypass selected by two front panel buttons.

Plays Well with Others

The Tuner Genius XL easily integrates with the Power Genius XL RF amplifier and all FLEX-6000 series HF transceivers. These station components communicate with each other using a LAN connection via ethernet or Wi-Fi. When used in conjunction with a Power Genius XL amp and a FLEX-6600 or FLEX-6700 transceiver, you can have a fully functional SO2R station.

You may enjoy this review on the FlexRadio Power Genius XL Amplifier too.

In addition, the TGXL supports frequency detection from other brands of HF radios at the inputs and automatically chooses the appropriate setting for tuning. This band-switching mode may require double-keying before the first transmission for non-Flex radios before it tunes. You still need to set up a PTT or the TGXL will not go into TX mode. RF Sense is for frequency detection. Alternatively, you can use data from your radio.

TGXL PTT lines are opto-isolated, but they won’t tolerate high voltages or an AC voltage. Be aware of this if you use an older transceiver. Incoming PTT line specs should be checked before you connect. Some operators may want to use a keying buffer in all cases as insurance to prevent any possible damage to the exciter or tuner due to possible transient voltage spikes or RF ingress.

Setup: TGXL User Interface

For Flex radios, you start the Tuner Genius XL Windows Utility program on a Windows-based computer. It will find your Tuner Genius XL tuner automatically and direct you to the copy of the front panel display.

The configuration has five separate tabs: network settings, CAT/CI-V information, FlexRadio settings, Antenna Genius (a remote switchbox option), and other, which is a collection of miscellaneous settings. These allow you to customize radio, antenna, and other settings for your particular station.

The user interface has all the same functions available on the front panel. All you need to do is point and click.

Tuning Process for the FlexRadio Tuner Genius XL

There are two modes of tuner operation: manual and automatic. In automatic mode (default), you start a tune operation to better match the transmitter and the antenna system. If one is found, the match solution (L/C/L values and frequency) is stored in memory and automatically used when the frequency of the transmit slice is within the match frequency range, with the same antenna selected.

Go through each antenna on each band once, then the tuner will use the tuning values closest to your operating frequency for the antenna you’re currently using. There are 10 memories per band, and up to four tunings per band can be saved. Once set up, TGXL will remember individual settings for each frequency change.

Band configuration settings let you select ranges of frequencies that the tuner will selectively ignore for resonant antennas. For example, suppose your 80M dipole is resonant at 3750 kHz. In that case, frequencies near this value can be bypassed by selecting the Enable Bypass check box in the 80M row, then entering the range of the bypass in the Bypass Start and Bypass Stop columns.

Manual tuning is also possible to tweak a current or saved setting. Three front panel controls allow manual tuning by turning one of three knobs found along the bottom edge of the front panel or clicking on them in the TGXL control app on your computer. The first and third knobs select the capacitance with the second adjusting inductance values.

Once you have tuned a frequency, the solution is saved. When you change bands on the radio, the tuner senses your new frequency and is ready almost instantly. It uses relays rather than servo-controlled inductors and capacitors.

TGXL on the Air

I have several HF antennas at my location, so I chose an inverted L (160/80m) and a rotatable 40m D-40 dipole. These would require tuning somewhere within the range of their coverage. In addition, I used a triband Yagi on 20/15m to test the abilities of a non-Flex radio (Icom IC-7610).

The FLEX-6400M and an Icom 7610 were both connected through a Power Genius XL to the tuner. The Flex used the LAN for PTT and frequency tracking. The 7610 used a CI-V and conventional PTT line consisting of a shielded cable with RCA connectors on the A inputs. Internal tuners on both radios were bypassed.

Starting with the potentially challenging 160M band on the Flex, I checked for matches on five frequencies across the band. All read 1.26:1 or less using the onboard TGXL SWR meter. The seek time for 160 meters was under 10 seconds. For 80 and 40 meters it took less than five seconds to arrive at an initial tuning solution. Once stored, the memory settings are applied within milliseconds. When returning to a previously memorized band segment, the TGXL makes one relay click noise and it’s tuned in a fraction of a second.

With the IC-7610, the frequency tracking followed the radio. The front panel tune button was used to set up the memory locations, requiring a carrier from the 7610. I also found that the TGXL control software would duplicate the tune button function on the front panel for the Icom. Tuning setup can be done from any radio that produces band data for the TGXL.

Finally, I changed the 80m settings to add a bypass start/stop. Since the measured antenna resonance was 3780 kHz, I set the bypass to 3730 kHz through 3830 kHz (50 kHz each side of resonance.) The tuner ignored the range set to be bypassed and continued to access memory settings for the other portions of the band.

Overall Impressions of the FlexRadio Tuner Genius XL

Whether you’re currently a Flex owner or not, this is a tuner you should consider. It works well in the SmartSDR ecosystem and is built like a tank. At the time of writing this review, I know of no tuner that accommodates two radios simultaneously.

It’s a perfect match for the PGXL amp, which also has SO2R capabilities. It’s also compatible with the Antenna Genius 8×2, a smart matrix antenna switch that supports eight antennas and two radios while operating on your existing LAN/WAN.

If you have a PGXL or other solid-state amp, the TGXL is a must, since the tuning is precise and repeatable. You’ll also be protecting those expensive transistor finals. Once you have set up the TGXL with tuning solutions for your antennas, you are good to go. Because the TGXL quickly follows the radio’s frequency as I tune my 6400M and IC-7610, a tuning solution is ready to go even before I transmit.

The post Ham Radio Product Review—FlexRadio Tuner Genius XL appeared first on OnAllBands.

Solid-state amplifiers have become mainstream as vacuum tubes have become more difficult to find and solid-state power capabilities have increased.

Now it is commercially feasible for amateur radio amplifier manufacturers to provide maximum legal output power, plus headroom, using the new generation of solid-state devices. Though comparable tube amplifiers are currently less expensive, it’s likely that the price point on solid-state amps will continue to drop.

If you are searching for a high-performing solid-state linear amplifier, the Power Genius XL (PGXL) amplifier is exactly what you need. It’s the only amplifier on the market that allows fully integrated single-operator, two-radio (SO2R) operation using a single amplifier. It also works equally well in single-operator mode.

The Power Genius XL transforms your FlexRadio FLEX-6000 series radio (or any other brand radio) into a legal-limit powerhouse with headroom to spare.

The PGXL delivers 1,500 watts thanks to the pair of NXP MRF1K50H LDMOS transistors, each rated at 1.5 kW dissipation. That’s 1,500 watts at full ICAS duty cycle using any amateur mode. Also unique to the PGXL is a technology called MEffA (Maximum Efficiency Algorithm). It controls the DC voltage and bias levels on the PA to yield high efficiency and low intermodulation distortion.

This amplifier is built to broadcast industry standards, incorporating low pass and high pass band switched RF output filter networks. All signal harmonic energy is directed into an internal resistor load, eliminating the reflection of this harmonic energy back into the amplifier.

This feature improves amplifier stability, distortion, and efficiency.

PGXL Amplifier Features

Up front is a color touch screen with power and SWR readings shown as horizontal bar graphs.  Temperature and voltage readings are displayed numerically. The A and B input/outputs show amplifier class settings, band information, and keying method. Rounding out the display is the local IP address and software version.

You can also communicate with the amplifier using Power Genius XL Utility software (downloadable from the FlexRadio website), which mirrors the display settings on your computer screen.

To the left of the display is a horizontal bar. I originally thought this was just part of the front panel design.

Actually, it’s a handle built into the PGXL that makes carrying the amp easy, compared to holding it like a box. Behind the handle, you’ll find an open space for airflow, populated with LED lighting indicating the operating state. Yellow is standby, green is operate mode, red is transmit, and purple is firmware update.

Band switching is automatic, controlled via a transceiver interface, LAN for Flex radios or by sensing the RF input signal. The PGXL operates at full power with an antenna system SWR up to about 2:1. Output power folds back between 2:1 and 3:1. Above 3:1, the amplifier stops transmitting.

The unit does not include an antenna tuner, but a companion Tuner Genius XL is available at DXEngineering.com.

The Power Genius XL features a predistortion sampler output for transceivers that can use this signal for predistortion processing to reduce transmitted intermodulation distortion. There are separate predistortion samplers for the A/B transceiver inputs.

Separate bias settings can be used for linear modes and nonlinear modes to increase efficiency when possible. Class AAB (more linear, less efficient) is intended for AM, SSB, and PSK modes. Class AB (less linear, more efficient) is intended for FM, CW, RTTY, and other digital modes. Bias selection is automatic when the amplifier is paired with a FLEX-6000 series transceiver. It can also be selected manually from the front panel or by using the PGXL Utility software.

Easy Peasy

Adding a PGXL to a FlexRadio FLEX-6000 series transceiver is a simple five-step process:

• Plug the PGXL into 240 VAC power
• Insert an ethernet LAN cable
• Connect the coax from the radio(s)
• Connect ANT 1 and ANT 2 to the respective inputs of the amplifier and connect the antennas to the two outputs of the PGXL
• Install the desktop software on your PC and configure the PGXL to your radio

Only have 120 VAC outlets? The internal power supply will automatically sense the input voltage. Maximum power output is limited to 700W, and the power meter scales adjust to reflect this. Drive power is also attenuated to minimize the possibility of overdriving the amplifier

The Flex PGXL can also be easily configured to work with any radio from other manufacturers because it supports CAT, CI-V, BCD band decode, and RF sensing. Detailed information appears in the operating manual.

How Does it Perform in Everyday Operation?

The PGXL is a device you can forget about during operation. It can be left powered on in standby for minimal current draw and jumps to instant operation when you press operate. The standby/operate functions are fully integrated into SmartSDR Maestro and SmartSDR iOS. In fact, an entirely new set of meters can be selected in the amplifier app to monitor the PGXL power output, SWR, and temperature on your computer screen.

You can place the amp just about anywhere that your home network and sufficient AC voltage is available. For example, I’ve placed mine in another part of the shack, since my operation position is a bit crowded. If you use any of the FLEX-6000 series radios, Tuner Genius, or Antenna Genius, you’ll find that they communicate with each other on the network.

First Impressions of the Power Genius XL

Power Genius is a reasonably compact unit, especially for one that delivers 1,500W on 160 through 6 meters with about 50W of drive. The amplifier power switch is on the rear panel. I found this unusual, as most amps have them on the front panel. It’s not a deal breaker, but sometimes inconvenient.

I’ve had the Power Genius XL with the FLEX-6400M transceiver and the Tuner Genius automatic antenna tuner for a while. Setup is relatively simple—just configure the PGXL touch screen or computer app for the radio(s) you plan to use.

The FLEX-6600/6600M provides SO2R operation from one box, or you can choose any two transceivers. In my case, I don’t have an SO2R configuration. I use the A input/output for my Flex radio and the B input/output channel for my other radios—the best of both worlds. There’s 70dB of isolation between the A/B connections and only one can transmit at a time. It’s almost like having two amps.

On the Air

I’ve used the Power Genius XL on all bands from 160 through 6 meters, primarily on SSB. My antennas include a Yagi for 20 through 6 meters, inverted-L wire for 160 and 80 meters, rotatable dipole for 40 meters, and a Big IR vertical for 80-6 meters.

When the going got tough during poor band conditions or atmospheric noise on 160/80 meters, the PGXL made the difference between QSO and no QSO. I generally leave it in standby mode so it’s ready to go at a moment’s notice. 

When using the FLEX-6400M, the amplifier tracked the band using the ethernet connection to communicate. Using other rigs like the Icom IC-7610, the amplifier sensed the frequency and selected the proper band if I used the C-IV connection—in this case a standard 3.5mm male to male audio cable. The TGXL tuner adds additional versatility, something to be discussed in a future review.

Virtually any transceiver that provides a PTT output to control an amplifier will also work with the PGXL. The PTT control is optically isolated with very low voltage and current, so it will work with any transceiver. This requires a brief pulse of RF from the transceiver, then release of the PTT, VOX, or CW keyer. The amplifier then operates normally following a band change.

The PGXL keeps its cool with fans in the power supply unit, the RF deck, and the filter compartment. The firmware manages the fans independently based on information from sensors in each compartment. To help manage that, the PGXL offers three user-selectable fan profiles (standard mode, contest mode, and broadcast mode) in order of increasing fan speed.

In standby mode, the PGXL fan is quiet after it cools down. In operational mode and receiving, the fan is only moderately noisy. As with other solid-state legal-limit amplifiers, the fan gets louder after a long full-power transmission as it tracks the internal temperature and provides more cooling.

Remote operation is supported by Flex SmartSDR. This is very helpful for me since I often spend the winter months in warmer climates. I can pull out an iPad or iPhone, turn on the station remotely, and get on the air. You can bring the amp online or offline from your laptop, tablet, or smartphone and monitor. It also will let you monitor PGXL power output and SWR.

Currently there is no remote on/off control built into the amplifier—perhaps that may be added in the future. In the meantime, I use a homebrew remote relay switch. As for connecting to the PGXL utility, it can be done through a VPN connection and a Node Red program running on a PC or Raspberry Pi. There’s plenty of information on this, the relay switch, and other subjects on the FlexRadio community discussion board.

PGXL Amplifier Review Summary

The FlexRadio Power Genius XL is a great solid-state, maximum-legal-limit amplifier for 160 through 6 meters. It integrates seamlessly with FLEX-6000 series radios, but it also works well with other transceivers, with or without band data connections.

As you might expect from an amplifier at this price point, it has outstanding performance. It produces 1,500W output on any band with about 50W drive and hardly breaks a sweat—something that cannot be said about just any amplifier. It will cruise along in any mode, including digital, at full throttle/full output all the time. Of course, the amp will fold back or shut down extremely fast if a fault is found, making the PGXL bulletproof.

But wait, there’s more. The FlexRadio Power Genius XL manual and other documentation is available from DX Engineering.com to give you the bigger picture.

The post Ham Radio Product Review: Power Genius XL Amplifier—Go on a Power Trip appeared first on OnAllBands.

Every Field Day setup is different, depending on location, number of people, access to trees, number of stations operating, and more. Chances are you’ve participated before and have a basic checklist of items you’ll need. It probably includes items like radios, antennas, generators, tables, chairs, shelter, food, and other necessities.

But sometimes you get that feeling that you left something behind. You’re not sure what it is, but you’ll find out soon enough, like when you discover the extension cord isn’t long enough or try to sit down and realize you left the folding chair at home.

Forehead slap, followed by “How could I forget that!”

We can’t prevent these awkward moments, but there are some items we’d suggest to make your Field Day experience more productive and comfortable.

Let There Be Light

It’s nighttime and the glow from your transceiver’s dial isn’t quite enough to see your iambic keyer or the coffee cup you’re about to knock over. If you’ve got some power to spare from your generator, a gooseneck desk lamp will be a big help. If not, then a compact emergency lantern will last the entire Field Day (and then some) on a handful of batteries.

Need to do cable repair in the dark or find your way to the porta-john? A basic handheld flashlight will guide the way.

Comfort First

The operator can only tolerate what the seat will endure. The folding chair-in-a-bag is great for relaxing but awkward for serious operating. Our club president brings a large, comfy desk chair—fortunately, he has a truck to haul it to the FD site. However, a sturdy folding chair with upholstered seat and back will easily fit in most cars and provide reasonable comfort. If it’s a basic metal model, consider adding a memory foam cushion. What the heck, bring a foam cushion anyway.

Fold-in-half resin tables are compact and easy to carry. Most are also height-adjustable for a comfortable working area.

They also stand up to spilled coffee.

Keep Cool

Bring a fan. Small desk fans are a start, but large and quiet are better—think box fans. If you live in a warm, dry climate, misting fans can lower ambient air temperature up to 25 degrees F.

Tool Kits

Everyone has their own vision of the perfect tool kit. Most include socket sets, screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, hammers, battery powered drills, long tape measures, spare hardware, and clamps.

There are other tools worth considering. One that tops our list is Vise-Grips. They can be used to hold small parts together temporarily and to clamp something quickly and securely in place. They’re also a great tool for ground rod or rebar stake extraction. Lock them in place near the top and twist the rod out.

A mini sledge is a close second. A two- to three-pound version is usually ideal for most jobs and better than a standard claw hammer for driving stakes and ground rods.

Square Peg, Round Hole

Our Field Day crew has tried to standardize audio, power, and RF connectors over the last few years. For the most part, it has worked. But once in a while we have to deal with an odd connection of some kind, replace worn connectors, or extend coax runs. Keep male and female versions of the coax adapters—UHF to N, BNC, or SMA and a good supply of SO-239 barrel connectors (below) for chronic feedline shortages. For audio adapters, 1/4 to 1/8 inch, 1/8 to 1/4 inch, and the mono/stereo versions are a good start.

Anderson Powerpoles offer a standard for 13.8 VDC connections—one plug fits all and prevents accidental polarity reversals. Four-way splitters are handy for multiple station items like radios, tuners, and keyers.

Electronic Repair & Diagnosis

Antenna analyzers are a must for tuning antennas and checking feedline. The RigExpert STICK-230 (below) fits easily in a pocket and has a long battery life.

Digital multimeters can help with continuity checks, voltage/amperage readings, and battery solar cell and power supply diagnosis. Include a comprehensive tool kit with everything you might need for quick fixes: soldering iron and solder, electrical tape, wire cutters and strippers, crimp tools, screwdrivers, coax prep tools, and spare PL-259 connectors.

Rebar, Zip Ties & Gaffer Tape

You can’t have enough stakes. But when shopping the big box stores, I found plastic, wood, and not-so-rugged metal versions. The more durable rebar pieces cut into one-, two-, or four-foot sections appear to be a sturdier choice for guy lines. Keep them driven close to the ground or mark them clearly so as not to be a hazard.

You can use two- or four-foot rebar to help keep your tent pole or light telescoping masts from sliding around while you do your guying setup. Drill a 5/8-inch hole in the center of a small scrap of plywood or 2 x 6 stud, then place it on the ground to protect the pole. Drive the rebar into the ground through the hole, leaving about a foot or so protruding. Slide the mast over the rebar. You may want to protect fiberglass poles by inserting a slightly smaller diameter piece of PVC inside the bottom of the mast.

Zip ties? They’re probably one of the handiest inventions ever made. The obvious use is for bundling cable and rolling it up neatly for next year’s Field Day. Break a zipper-pull on your backpack or a shoelace—replace it with a zip tie loop. Use multicolor zip tie kits to color code wires. Flag cable ties let you easily identify or mark items.

Leave your duct tape at home. Sure, it will work, but it leaves a sticky residue when it’s removed or relocated. Gaffer tape leaves little to no residue when removed. With gaffer tape, you can secure cords and gear, mark spots, label and mark gear, etc., and then remove the tape without mucking up your stuff.

Backup Equipment

Test it before Field Day and it will work. Use it during Field Day and it might fail. Murphy’s law will prevail: “Anything that can go wrong will go wrong, and at the worst possible time.”

Be prepared to replace an entire station or parts of it: power supply, radio, microphone, headphone, tuner, patch cables, etc. Having these available for quick replacement will ensure your downtime will be minimal. The same applies to antennas—have some pre-built substitutes and coaxial feedline ready as replacements.

DOA laptop computer? It’s always a good idea to have a backup on hand, as well as chargers and spare batteries for all your computers.

Do you have a backup generator like the A-iPower 2,000W SUA2000I portable inverter model available? You should.

Odds & Ends

Here’s a list of miscellaneous items that you might also find useful:

• Plastic wrap for waterproofing connections
• Magnet to retrieve parts dropped in the grass
• Magnifying glass
• Common mode chokes for antennas
• Grill lighter to seal ends of paracord
• An RF noise filter for generators
• Tags or address labels on everything you bring so you get them back 

This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the items you might need. Hopefully, we’ve suggested some things you can use. To paraphrase a line from a Rolling Stones song, “You don’t always bring what you want. But if you try sometimes, well, you might find, you’ll bring what you need.”

The post Field Day: Things You’ll Need & Wished You’d Brought appeared first on OnAllBands.

Going mobile? Installing a ham radio station in your vehicle expands the usefulness of amateur radio, making automobiles ham shacks on wheels. It’s a convenient way to have instant emergency communications onsite without any tedious setup. You can even treat yourself to park and POTA—no picnic table needed.

Those of you who have moved to mobile radio operation probably started with combination VHF/UHF radios. Some go the extra mile and later add HF radio to the mix. Either way, ham radio mobile installations can present some unique challenges for the operator. Anyone who has shopped for a car or truck in the last 20 years has found that Detroit took away a lot of the radio space that we can utilize. Yet, we still adjust and improvise.

There are many different ham radio mobile equipment combinations and installation approaches that can result in an efficient mobile station. Every ham radio mobile station is a compromise, but you can do things to improve both operating flexibility and range, no matter what vehicle you drive.

Interior Setup

Few amateurs search for a new vehicle with the idea of creating a mobile station in mind. In most cases, they already own a vehicle and decide to operate mobile. Either scenario presents its own set of issues. Minivans, SUVs, RVs, Jeeps, station wagons, crossovers, and plastic/fiberglass bodies present challenges.

One of the most useful features found in some mobile rigs is the remote head, which allows you to separate the controls from the radio and save space. Choose a mounting location that will put your remote head within easy reach and be easily viewable. The best rule of thumb for every mobile installation is to secure your equipment properly. You don’t want a flying station in the event of a panic stop—or a collision.

One example of a secured solution is the Lido LM-300 Gooseneck Mount that attaches to the seat bolt, allowing the remote head to be easily adjusted. Cup holder mounts like the heavy-duty Lido LM-820 expand to fit by twisting the base, establishing a friction fit. It also has a swivel to adjust arm position.

Sometimes you’ll find that what you need came with your radio. My Yaesu FTM-400 Mobile Transceiver had a mounting bracket for the remote head. Everything fit in a cubby located on the dash side of the console, secured by two small sheet metal screws and industrial strength Velcro. Another good solution I’ve seen recently is a mount that clips into the seams of the dashboard.

Based on personal experience, suction cup mounts aren’t always reliable, especially in the heat. Vent clip mountings vary greatly in quality. Better ones have adjustable tensioning and secure both on the horizontal and vertical planes. Forget the double-sided super-duty tape. Sometimes it holds, sometimes it doesn’t, and it can be difficult to clean after removal.

The radio’s main body should be mounted in a location with proper airflow around the entire unit. Avoid closed areas like tight cubby holes, center consoles, glove boxes, trunks, and storage boxes. Open areas in the rear of SUVs, mini/full-sized vans, and hatchbacks are acceptable as they maintain the same temperature as the rest of the interior. Under passenger seats is a popular mounting location for the radio body—just be sure not to disturb any existing wiring.

Sound Advice

Install an external mobile speaker—it will make the audio much clearer and easier to hear, especially if you have the radio mounted under the seat or back in the cargo area. They don’t have to be high-fidelity, but you want clear audio at voice frequencies.

Speakers like bhi’s DSP NES10-2MK4 and West Mountain Radio’s WMT-58407-948 ClearSpeech DSP Noise Reduction model increase audio levels and noise canceling technology. Remove noise and interference and crank the volume to overcome road noise.

My car has an auxiliary input so I can connect the audio out from my rig to the car stereo. This way, the audio comes out the car speakers and I can use my steering wheel controls to adjust the volume. I can even adjust the tone from the radio controls to make it sound better than the built-in speaker.

Best Antenna Locations

Antenna location makes all the difference. Regardless of where you mount one, it’s the metal mass directly under the antenna that counts, not what’s alongside. Increasing the antenna height may also increase distance, so mount your antenna as high as possible.

The center of a vehicle’s roof is a very good place to mount a VHF/UHF antenna. However, creating an optimal ground in this position involves drilling a hole. If you choose this path, seek professional help from your dealer or a qualified installer. You could use a mag mount instead, but the only ground path is through capacitive coupling, which is lossy in comparison.

Trunk mounting is second best. It’s probably the easiest location to place VHF/UHF antennas, loaded UHF/VHF/HF antennas, and small screwdriver antennas like the Diamond SD330 3.5-30 MHz model. Seam mountings and clip mountings are commonly used here, but it’s important to make sure they are well grounded (bonded) to the frame. If your vehicle doesn’t have a trunk or rear hatch, the front fenders or cowl areas are good alternatives.

Locations like bumpers, trailer hitches, and ball mounts on the rear quarter panels round out the list. They’re the solution for tall antennas like a 102-inch whip, Hustler HF Mobile System, large screwdriver antennas, and hamsticks. 

With screwdriver antennas, you’ll want to keep as much of the coil in the air—above the metal— as possible. Putting the coil right up against the body will result in greater losses. If you have a pickup truck, mounting in the middle of the center of the bed with the coil raised has proven to be a good strategy.

The Long and Short of Antennas

One of the most important mobile purchases you’ll ever make is the antenna. Choosing the right antenna can help improve your reception and transmit range.

When you’re shopping for VHF/UHF mobile antennas, don’t take the dB gain figures as fact— think of them more as a guide. Yes, most of those antennas will have some gain to them, but how and where you mount it will affect its performance. You’re better off with an effective mounting location instead of just comparing dBs of gain, so choose the best antenna to fit your needs over its specs.

Longer antennas may perform better. But consider this—a 1/4 wave VHF/UHF has a relatively high angle of radiation, making it easier to reach radio communication sites located in higher places, like repeaters. So they’re more useful in mountainous and metropolitan areas with tall buildings. A 5/8 wave antenna radiates and receives more energy toward the horizon and can have up to a 2-3dB gain over a 1/4 wave. They’re best used in the flatlands and suburban areas.

HF antennas are a different animal. All of them are a compromise to some extent, especially on 80 and 40 meters. All of them will allow you to make contacts—even DX QSOs. But their efficiency, overall length, quality, design, sturdiness, and ease of mounting will vary. The most important thing to look at is overall antenna efficiency, your specific needs, and how the antenna can be mounted on your vehicle.

Many HF mobile antennas require some kind of impedance matching to obtain a reasonable SWR. Overall length is also important in obtaining good efficiency, but there are practical limitations for antenna height and placement on vehicles. Driving around with a 33-foot vertical radiator for 40 meters would be silly—and dangerous.

Probably the most efficient HF mobile antenna is a Texas BugCatcher, followed by the screwdriver (easiest to operate), Outbackers and similar multibanders, single-band Hustler, hamsticks, and base-loaded antennas, in that order.

Common Mode–Common Problem

There will always be some level of common mode current flow in any mobile installation. That’s because there is always ground loss, even at VHF/UHF frequencies. The more ground loss, the higher the level of common mode there will be. Causes include poor antenna mounting techniques, such as using magnet mount antennas or clip mounts on the hood, trunk, or luggage rack. Trailer hitch and bumper mountings can increase common mode significantly.

Proper choking of these currents must be done to help improve your signal to noise ratios (SNR). Using ferrite cores (Mix 31) is essential in minimizing RFI produced by today’s vehicle microcontrollers. Vehicle wiring doesn’t always provide enough slack to install multiple-turn toroid cores. Under these conditions, use multiple snap-on cores if there is enough wire space available.

Don’t forget chokes on power connections to the radio. You’ll also want two chokes on the feedline—one right at the antenna and a second where the feedline enters the vehicle. The one at the antenna is especially important if you’re using a screwdriver antenna.

Bonding

We’re not referring to 007 here. This kind of bonding involves making low impedance connections among the conductive parts of your vehicle to make a workable ground plane.

To improve RFI noise reduction and antenna efficiency, bond horizontal body surfaces together, such as the hood and trunk to the rest of the vehicle body. This is done by attaching short pieces of tinned copper braid across the hinge connections of the hood and trunk. The braid connection helps to electrically join these surfaces into a single massive ground plane. For pickup trucks you may also improve the ground plane by bonding the bed to the cab, using braid segments underneath the truck and utilizing existing bolts as connection points.

Also consider grounding the exhaust system on cars and trucks, which can act like an antenna. Electrically bond your exhaust pipe to the vehicle frame at three or more points, spread out along its length. Attach the braid to the pipe using clamps and use screws with star or tooth lock washers and soldered ring connectors to ensure a good connection to the car body or frame. Ready-to-install kits specifically for exhaust system grounding are available, or you can homebrew your own.

Pulling it Together

Remember, the primary goal is to maximize the ground plane under the antenna and to improve the conductivity at RF frequencies. This alone will help control many of the issues with mobile operation.

The post Tweaking Your Mobile Installation for Best Performance appeared first on OnAllBands.

Have you thought about changing your current call sign? Maybe you’ve upgraded your license, moved to a new call area, decided you want a shorter call, or have a real tongue twister that’s hard to decipher on the air. It could be you want a call that’s easier for your friends to remember or one the net control station won’t keep asking you to repeat.

A vanity call sign is one that a ham or amateur radio club wants in place of an existing call sign. Vanity call signs often include alphabetical characters that are important to the licensee—initials, parts of names, hobbies, nicknames, or amateur radio terms. For example, a person who hunts rare stations might request a call including the letters DX. As mentioned above, making the change might just be a matter of brevity.

The Process

With approximately 700,000 licensed hams in the United States, a lot of call sign combinations have already been assigned. Anyone can change their existing call sign at any time. The format of the call sign you qualify for is determined by your license class. The higher your license class, the shorter the call sign you can obtain. If you have a recent technician license, you have a 2×3 call similar to this one:

• Group A: Amateur Extra Class, 1×2, 2×1, and 2×2 (includes AA-AL prefixes exclusively)—Examples: K3AB, WB4J, AA6WW
• Group B: Advanced Class, 2×2—Examples: NC4RX, KB2DX
• Group C: General and Technician, 1×3 (or 2×2 in special locations such as Alaska)—Example: N8BBQ
• Group D: Technician and Novice, 2×3—Example: KE9OOP 

The first step is to choose a few call signs that you’d be happy with and list them in order of preference—first choice, first on list. You may not get your first choice for a number of reasons (others may have applied for it, for example). In order to increase your chances of finding something that matches, do not forget to check all combinations, not just suffixes. Some name examples: KB3OB, KJ3ILL, A4LAN, etc.

Another thing to consider is letter clarity—how clear will the sound of the letters be on voice contacts. The letters B, C, D, E, G, P, T, V, Z, and other sound-alikes can be tough to distinguish. Letters R, X, O, etc. have their own unique sounds and are easier to differentiate. For CW, total dits and dahs determine how long it will take to send a call sign, which is important in contesting. A8EN could be sent significantly faster than K4GP.

Then there are the clever combinations—initials like W6NBC or N2FBI, acronyms such as K2OCD, and ones that spell words or ham radio abbreviations like K8BOX or W7OM. Often the numbers 1 and 0, which have a visual similarity to I and O, are used to spell combinations like K1ND or W0RM.

Call Sign Research

Applicants wanting a specific vanity call sign will need to independently research the FCC Universal Licensing System (ULS) database before deciding to file an application. You can perform an Amateur License Search to research call sign availability and Vanity Call Sign Application Search to ensure that your desired callsign(s) do not already have a pending vanity application on file. The FCC Licensing and Support staff cannot provide assistance or guidance in determining the availability of amateur call signs.

The following additional sites all get their information from the FCC site, but may be more helpful:

The ARRL site at www.arrl.org/vanity-call-signs gives you most of the things you need to know concerning rules, procedures, and FCC information.

Radioqth (https://www.radioqth.net/vanity) provides listings of the ham call signs from the FCC’s database that will be coming available tomorrow for submission on a vanity license request, links to call signs that will be coming available in the future, and a listing of the ham vanity applications that have been recently granted by the FCC. There’s also a call search.

AE7Q (https://www.ae7q.com/query/) can help you look up call sign histories and applications, available Amateur Extra call signs, vanity call sign predictions and more, using a copy of the FCC’s amateur license and application databases—automatically updated from FCC data several times a day.

Call Search WM7D.net and QRZ.com offer simple call sign searches to check your vanity wish list.

What is your ideal call sign? Everyone’s choice will be a personal one for them and only limited by the group of call signs available based on their license class, geographic location, previously issued call signs, etc.

Your first step should be to check for available and soon to be available call signs from the sites above. Radioqth and AE7Q offer current lists of calls now available or that will be available in the near future. Once you’ve compiled a list of valid, unused call signs, it’s time to make your application.

Here are a couple of important tips.

• You will not be considered for a call sign if you apply before the date it is available.
• It’s also a common misconception that call signs are granted to the first person to apply. The truth is that everyone who applies for a certain call on a particular day is thrown into a hat and a winner is randomly selected.
• You can apply for a call sign for another call district, provided it’s available. You’re not restricted to the one used where you live. For example, if you wanted K8DQ but it wasn’t available, and K7DQ was, you could ask for K7DQ.
• There is a special exception for calls previously held by a close relative who is deceased. You can request that call, provided you have the same or higher license class. Example: You must be an Amateur Extra Class operator to request a Group A call sign.

Applying for a Vanity Call

1. Find Your FCC Registration Number (FRN). If you have an FCC radio license, you have an FRN. To find your FRN, search for your call sign on the ULS page.

2. Log into the FCC ULS. Next you need to log into the ULS and select the Online Filing login option. You’ll need your FRN and your password for the site. If you don’t have a password assigned yet or forgot yours, follow the Forgot Your Password? instructions on this page.

3. Request a vanity call sign. Once you log into the ULS, it should show you a list of licenses assigned to your FRN. Click on your ham license to open the License Manager page. You should see a blue menu box near the right edge of the page titled Work on This License. This menu box includes a Request Vanity Call Sign selection. Continue past the “Applicant Questions” page (answer “no” to each) to the “Select Eligibility” page. Select your category, most commonly Primary station preference list, unless you are requesting a vanity call formerly held by you or a close relative. Continue to the next page to provide your vanity calls in order of preference.

4. Pay the FCC application fee. Follow the FCC instructions on how to pay the $35 application fee. After completing the vanity application, the system will automatically open a page asking how you want to pay and will walk you through the payment process.

Join the Vanity Insanity

I am glad the FCC has a system that allows hams to choose call letters based on their personal criteria and not just luck of the draw. It’s good to have choices, and here’s your chance.

Hams hold call signs almost as dear to them as their given names. There may be thousands of Maria Garcias or James Smiths in the world, but only one K8MSH. Given the current population of planet Earth, I can truly say I’m one in eight billion!

Will you miss the old call? Perhaps—I did for the first few months. There were times when I started to ID and said N before realizing I should have said K. And then there were the nearly 200 QSL cards I still had with my old call sign, not to mention my vehicle’s vanity plate.

The post What’s a Vanity Call Sign and How Do You Get One? appeared first on OnAllBands.

Space, the final frontier for antenna installations. The ham’s ongoing mission: to explore their shrinking lot sizes and seek out smaller antennas that will keep them on the air—ones that boldly perform with the fewest compromises.

There’s nothing that says you can’t bend or wrap antenna elements to make them more compact. Think of open folded dipoles or the end droop on a wire antenna when it’s a few feet too long. Keep in mind that making a dipole smaller by wrapping it back on itself reduces not only the size but affects bandwidth as well. Regardless, this might be a good tradeoff under the right circumstances.

Another advantage is that all the antennas mentioned here resemble an outdoor clothesline to some extent. They look like they belong in the backyard, perhaps making them more acceptable to a ham’s family and the neighbors. Just make sure they don’t hang wet shirts or socks on the wires since it will negatively affect SWR.

Hexbeam

A hexbeam, or hexagonal beam, is a type of directional antenna for amateur HF bands. The name comes from the hexagonal outer shape of the antenna—not curses put upon them by HOAs. Its design resembles a modified two-element Yagi-Uda antenna, consisting of a W-shaped dipole and a reflector but no directors. The finished design looks something like an upside-down umbrella.

Hexbeams consist of six arms of non-conductive materials, such as fiberglass or plastic pipes. Insulated wire is used for the elements. In the original design by Mike Traffie, N1HXA, there were two W-shaped elements. Steve Hunt, G3TXQ (SK), later modified the design. Hunt changed the dimensions and shape of the antenna elements, resulting in an antenna which retained the original W-shaped driver, but with a semicircular reflector.

The Hexbeam can be built as a single or multiband antenna to cover different frequency ranges. Popular combinations cover 20m, 15m, and 10m (3-band) and 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m, and 10m (5-band), like DX Engineering’s XB-5 Hexx Beam. There are also eight-band models on the market. The antenna elements for the lowest frequency band are located at the exterior of the antenna, with the higher frequency bands moving inward toward the center.

Driven elements are dipoles for each band. The spacing of each element is critical because the elements of a multiband hexbeam influence each other. If the elements are not parallel, antenna characteristics may change. The spacing between the ends of the driver wires are adjusted for the best compromise between gain performance and SWR. This spacing is maintained using an insulated cord spacer between the tips of the reflector and the driver.

A hexbeam has slightly less forward gain than a two-element Yagi (5 dBi or 3 dBd) depending on the band. It beats the Yagi with front-to-back ratio across the band, reaching peaks over 20 dB. The hexbeam is also broadbanded, with the SWR comfortably under 2:1 at the band edges. For a relatively small antenna, the hexbeam holds up well against the Yagi given its size, and far exceeds the performance of multiband mini beams.

Given all these advantages, there is one minor downside. There’s more work involved assembling all those wires and spreaders than there is working with aluminum tubes. I had some hands-on experience assembling one for a display at Hamvention—and this one was a scaled-down version to fit in the booth area. It just takes some time, patience, and reading the manual prior to assembly. Real hams do read the manual. It’s worth the effort. Editor’s note: The DX Engineering XB-5 Hexx Beam (below) has been designed with fewer parts for faster and easier assembly compared with competing models.

Catching Signals—The Cobweb

The cobweb was developed by G3TXQ. It was a variation of Steve Webb, G3TPW’s CobWebb antenna, consisting of concentric dipole element sections for each band that are bent into the shape of a square. The outer element is the largest and is tuned for the lowest frequency band. Elements for other bands are nested inside the larger outer loop. The feedpoints of all dipole elements are connected together and driven by a common transmission line.

The cobweb antenna is relatively small yet offers good overall performance. The below MFJ-1836H six-band version (20-6m) is easy to install in limited space, with a compact 9 x 9 footprint. It’s a lightweight structure with a low wind-loading cross-section, making it a robust antenna.

Gain is slightly lower compared to a traditional dipole (1-2 dB less peak gain), which is offset by the nearly omnidirectional pattern of the cobweb. There aren’t the deep pattern nulls off the ends you’ll see with a dipole. The bandwidth (>2:1 SWR) fully covers the 20, 17, and 12m bands but may require a tuner on parts of 10, 15, and 6m for full coverage. I’ve also noticed it has a low noise floor with less static than my other antennas.

Only one coaxial feedline is needed. To match the cobweb’s impedance of 12.5 ohms, it must be fed using a 4:1 matching transformer or balun to match it to a 50-ohm transceiver. A 1:1 balun is also needed to feed this antenna to prevent common mode currents and achieve optimal radiation. If a current balun is used, no additional choking on the coax is needed.

Cobwebs are typically fixed mounted antennas that don’t require an antenna rotator or a tall mast. You can expect reasonable performance at 10 feet, but 20 feet or more is recommended. If you want to include 30 and 40 meters, you’re in luck. The MFJ-1838 8-band version has a 12 x 12 footprint, or you can add a conversion kit to the six-band model.

Halo There

The halo antenna is commonly used for amateur radio operations. You’re probably familiar with the mobile and VHF/UHF versions. It’s a circular loop of wire that is bent into the shape of a halo or a doughnut—with a bite missing. The halo antenna is known for its omnidirectional radiation pattern, which means that it can transmit or receive signals equally well in all directions. This makes it ideal for applications where a wide coverage area is desired.

Overall, the halo antenna is a versatile and effective option for amateur radio operators looking for a compact and efficient antenna. Each half is about a quarter wavelength long and ends with a current node (zero current and peak voltage) at the break. Halos pick up less ignition noise from engines when mounted on vehicle roofs than whip antennas. They can also be stacked for additional gain and increased efficiency.

However, it’s a challenge to make a 33-foot-long folded dipole for 20 meters in a circular shape for HF use at home. But the circular shape is not necessary—a square version has almost the same properties. This antenna configuration is known as the Squalo (square and halo.) You can apply the same shape and configuration as done with the cobweb, adding additional bands. You want to add 10 meters? Make a 10-meter folded dipole and place it inside the square shape created by the 20-meter dipole.

The square halo is electrically similar to the cobweb in construction and size. If you compare the MFJ-1836 antenna to the Cushcraft ASQ-20, you’ll find both incorporate the half wave folded dipole(s) and a matching transformer. The Squalo maintains its square shape while the cobweb angles the wires to the transformer.

Tired of Your Plain Old Dipole?

The antenna world is full of dipole variations, and we’ve only looked at a few. If this article piqued your interest, take a look at the OnAllBands article, “Guide to Unusual Ham Radio Antennas” for a discussion of Moxon and Skeleton Slot antennas—close cousins of the halo and hexbeam.

The post Cobweb, Halo, and Hex: Ham Radio Antennas You Can Bend, Wrap, and Fold appeared first on OnAllBands.

Space, the final frontier for antenna installations. The ham’s ongoing mission: to explore their shrinking lot sizes and seek out smaller antennas that will keep them on the air—ones that boldly perform with the fewest compromises.

There’s nothing that says you can’t bend or wrap antenna elements to make them more compact. Think of open folded dipoles or the end droop on a wire antenna when it’s a few feet too long. Keep in mind that making a dipole smaller by wrapping it back on itself reduces not only the size but affects bandwidth as well. Regardless, this might be a good tradeoff under the right circumstances.

Another advantage is that all the antennas mentioned here resemble an outdoor clothesline to some extent. They look like they belong in the backyard, perhaps making them more acceptable to a ham’s family and the neighbors. Just make sure they don’t hang wet shirts or socks on the wires since it will negatively affect SWR.

Hexbeam

A hexbeam, or hexagonal beam, is a type of directional antenna for amateur HF bands. The name comes from the hexagonal outer shape of the antenna—not curses put upon them by HOAs. Its design resembles a modified two-element Yagi-Uda antenna, consisting of a W-shaped dipole and a reflector but no directors. The finished design looks something like an upside-down umbrella.

Hexbeams consist of six arms of non-conductive materials, such as fiberglass or plastic pipes. Insulated wire is used for the elements. In the original design by Mike Traffie, N1HXA, there were two W-shaped elements. Steve Hunt, G3TXQ (SK), later modified the design. Hunt changed the dimensions and shape of the antenna elements, resulting in an antenna which retained the original W-shaped driver, but with a semicircular reflector.

The Hexbeam can be built as a single or multiband antenna to cover different frequency ranges. Popular combinations cover 20m, 15m, and 10m (3-band) and 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m, and 10m (5-band), like DX Engineering’s XB-5 Hexx Beam. There are also eight-band models on the market. The antenna elements for the lowest frequency band are located at the exterior of the antenna, with the higher frequency bands moving inward toward the center.

Driven elements are dipoles for each band. The spacing of each element is critical because the elements of a multiband hexbeam influence each other. If the elements are not parallel, antenna characteristics may change. The spacing between the ends of the driver wires are adjusted for the best compromise between gain performance and SWR. This spacing is maintained using an insulated cord spacer between the tips of the reflector and the driver.

A hexbeam has slightly less forward gain than a two-element Yagi (5 dBi or 3 dBd) depending on the band. It beats the Yagi with front-to-back ratio across the band, reaching peaks over 20 dB. The hexbeam is also broadbanded, with the SWR comfortably under 2:1 at the band edges. For a relatively small antenna, the hexbeam holds up well against the Yagi given its size, and far exceeds the performance of multiband mini beams.

Given all these advantages, there is one minor downside. There’s more work involved assembling all those wires and spreaders than there is working with aluminum tubes. I had some hands-on experience assembling one for a display at Hamvention—and this one was a scaled-down version to fit in the booth area. It just takes some time, patience, and reading the manual prior to assembly. Real hams do read the manual. It’s worth the effort. Editor’s note: The DX Engineering XB-5 Hexx Beam (below) has been designed with fewer parts for faster and easier assembly compared with competing models.

Catching Signals—The Cobweb

The cobweb was developed by G3TXQ. It was a variation of Steve Webb, G3TPW’s CobWebb antenna, consisting of concentric dipole element sections for each band that are bent into the shape of a square. The outer element is the largest and is tuned for the lowest frequency band. Elements for other bands are nested inside the larger outer loop. The feedpoints of all dipole elements are connected together and driven by a common transmission line.

The cobweb antenna is relatively small yet offers good overall performance. The below MFJ-1836H six-band version (20-6m) is easy to install in limited space, with a compact 9 x 9 footprint. It’s a lightweight structure with a low wind-loading cross-section, making it a robust antenna.

Gain is slightly lower compared to a traditional dipole (1-2 dB less peak gain), which is offset by the nearly omnidirectional pattern of the cobweb. There aren’t the deep pattern nulls off the ends you’ll see with a dipole. The bandwidth (>2:1 SWR) fully covers the 20, 17, and 12m bands but may require a tuner on parts of 10, 15, and 6m for full coverage. I’ve also noticed it has a low noise floor with less static than my other antennas.

Only one coaxial feedline is needed. To match the cobweb’s impedance of 12.5 ohms, it must be fed using a 4:1 matching transformer or balun to match it to a 50-ohm transceiver. A 1:1 balun is also needed to feed this antenna to prevent common mode currents and achieve optimal radiation. If a current balun is used, no additional choking on the coax is needed.

Cobwebs are typically fixed mounted antennas that don’t require an antenna rotator or a tall mast. You can expect reasonable performance at 10 feet, but 20 feet or more is recommended. If you want to include 30 and 40 meters, you’re in luck. The MFJ-1838 8-band version has a 12 x 12 footprint, or you can add a conversion kit to the six-band model.

Halo There

The halo antenna is commonly used for amateur radio operations. You’re probably familiar with the mobile and VHF/UHF versions. It’s a circular loop of wire that is bent into the shape of a halo or a doughnut—with a bite missing. The halo antenna is known for its omnidirectional radiation pattern, which means that it can transmit or receive signals equally well in all directions. This makes it ideal for applications where a wide coverage area is desired.

Overall, the halo antenna is a versatile and effective option for amateur radio operators looking for a compact and efficient antenna. Each half is about a quarter wavelength long and ends with a current node (zero current and peak voltage) at the break. Halos pick up less ignition noise from engines when mounted on vehicle roofs than whip antennas. They can also be stacked for additional gain and increased efficiency.

However, it’s a challenge to make a 33-foot-long folded dipole for 20 meters in a circular shape for HF use at home. But the circular shape is not necessary—a square version has almost the same properties. This antenna configuration is known as the Squalo (square and halo.) You can apply the same shape and configuration as done with the cobweb, adding additional bands. You want to add 10 meters? Make a 10-meter folded dipole and place it inside the square shape created by the 20-meter dipole.

The square halo is electrically similar to the cobweb in construction and size. If you compare the MFJ-1836 antenna to the Cushcraft ASQ-20, you’ll find both incorporate the half wave folded dipole(s) and a matching transformer. The Squalo maintains its square shape while the cobweb angles the wires to the transformer.

Tired of Your Plain Old Dipole?

The antenna world is full of dipole variations, and we’ve only looked at a few. If this article piqued your interest, take a look at the OnAllBands article, “Guide to Unusual Ham Radio Antennas” for a discussion of Moxon and Skeleton Slot antennas—close cousins of the halo and hexbeam.

The post Cobweb, Halo, and Hex: Ham Radio Antennas You Can Bend, Wrap, and Fold appeared first on OnAllBands.

Finding activity on the ham radio bands used to mean tuning around the dial and listening for QSOs, one frequency at a time. We were blind to anything but the frequency we were on. But now, a useful display tool is appearing on current model radios. Whether you call it a waterfall, band scope, or panadapter, this modern display can show you an overview of the signals present on any radio band.

With waterfall displays, you can instantly tell whether anyone is around. Being able to locate ham radio signals means that you can move quickly to the frequency and give them a call. On some radios, it can be as simple as touching the screen or a mouse click—no need to touch the VFO knob.

The technology has been around for more than 90 years. Panoramic reception was created by a French engineer and ham, Marcell Wallace, F3HM. His panadapter made RF signals visible on a CRT and they could be identified by mode. Early versions like the RBY-1 US Navy Panoramic Radio Adapter were paired with the Hallicrafters SX-28 during WWII.

What is the Waterfall?

A radio waterfall display is a graphical representation of a radio signal. It provides a way of visualizing the frequency content of a signal over time and can help radio operators in identifying and analyzing signals easily. On the Icom IC-7610 transceiver, for example, you can select a small range of frequencies or the entire band by adjusting the span.

Typically, the waterfall display appears as a scrolling graph that shows frequency on the horizontal axis. Time can be found on the vertical axis and display speed can be adjusted using <MENU2> on the IC-7610. It features a series of vertical waterfall lines, each representing a snapshot of the signal’s spectrum at a specific moment in time. The most recent snapshot is located at the top of the display, while older snapshots are displayed below it in chronological order.

The default on the IC-7610 is for the centerline to be in the center of the band of the signal, matching the displayed frequency (7.134.00, on the main VFO). Note the numbers at the bottom of the display. The negative numbers moving right indicate decreasing frequency; the positive numbers moving left indicate increasing frequency (see below).

There’s a Message in Every Waterfall

By observing the display over time, an operator can see how the frequency content of the signal changes and can identify patterns in the signal. Starting from the top down, you’ll see the signal amplitude represented in white that is regularly changing. The grayed-out area behind this represents the ghost of signal peaks past, known as peak hold. This spectrum scope is useful for knowing what’s happening on the band this instant. 

But there’s additional information the waterfall can tell us. Moving down the screen, look at the waterfall component. Instead of representing signal strength with a graph, you can translate that into a line. New lines are created at the top and then fall downward in real time, just as water does over a waterfall. Speed is adjustable. Sometimes you can find things in the waterfall that don’t show up well on the spectrum scope—maybe some rare DX!

As long as the line is visible, you have time to look back in time. The history shows where conversations have been taking place, and there’s a good chance more could appear as time goes by. This could be useful for finding contacts during contesting—or locating unused frequencies where you can move in and start calling CQ.

You’ll find spots of color with brighter colors on the lines indicating higher signal strength. Waterfall colors are under your control—press and hold the <EXPD/SET> soft button in <MENU1> and the scope set options appear. If you press the <SPAN> button, you can adjust the width of the line or signal trail. Voice modes such as AM and SSB will appear wider than those for digital or CW (see below).

Open spots in the waterfall trail represent several things. They might indicate varying modulation in a transmission, the station got weaker, or it’s a break as the conversation is turned over to another station.

Two can be better than one. There’s a dual panadapter mode that lets you monitor activity on VFO A and VFO B. The example below is from an Elecraft K4D.

Better yet, your radio doesn’t need to have a built-in waterfall display to take advantage of its features. If you’re a digital user, free programs like Fldigi and WSJT-X have built-in waterfall displays to help you navigate the tightly packed signals. Older radios without the waterfall can be used—your computer handles the display.

3DSS—Another Dimension

Yaesu FTXD101 and FTDX10 transceivers offer a 3DSS version of the waterfall. It adds depth to the two-dimensional waterfall. It reminds me of watching an armada of toy sailboats (representing the signal) slowly floating on the Niagara River toward the Falls, then plummeting out of sight.

At lower frequency spans, I’ve found 3DSS is a good way to visualize how much space a signal is taking up and where the peaks are over time. The width and color intensity found on the standard waterfall appear, but it’s a different and perhaps more convenient way to visualize it. Turn down the signal level so the spikes look like individual blades of grass—this will maximize the view of signals (see below).

When there are static crashes, the 3DSS image creates a tall “wall” that makes it hard to see the signals before and after the static crash. Even if you attenuate the level of incoming signals, it still makes the 3D waterfall a challenge to use. That’s when to switch back to the standard waterfall.

Hello? Is There Anybody Out There?

The waterfall display can provide a visual representation of complex signals over time, making it a valuable tool for a wide range of applications. You can look for activity on the air, determine the operating mode, and determine signal strength by the clarity and color of the vertical signal trail.

The post Waterfall Displays—What Information Do They Provide? appeared first on OnAllBands.

Coax became popular with hams after World War II when war surplus was plentiful. Hams liked it because it was easy to obtain, relatively inexpensive, and easy to install—much easier than ladder line.

We’ve all got some. Whether it’s for cable TV, satellite, Internet, or ham radio, coaxial cable has become the RF highway for moving signals from one point to another. Fortunately, there are no orange barrels or detours—most of the time. But there are occasions when we need to check, repair, or even replace coax.

DVM Checkup

Materials Needed: Digital voltmeter, jumper with alligator clips and/or SO-239 shorting adapter, dummy load (optional)

The most common and readily available test tool is the digital voltmeter (DVM). Cheaper ones include the basics: voltage, current, continuity, resistance. The more expensive ones add features like capacitance, frequency, amperage, and others. All you need for this checkup are the continuity and resistance settings.

To enter continuity mode, turn the dial to the continuity symbol, which will resemble sound waves or a symbol for a musical note. If you’re using an auto ranging multimeter, you may need to press the “mode” or “select” button a few times until the symbol also appears on your screen.

For testing unconnected patch cords or rolls of coax, touch the multimeter probes on both sides of the cable. Check the shield ends, then the center conductor—if it’s bulk coax without connectors you’ll need to strip the end. If you don’t hear a loud beep, it means there’s a break in the wire or a faulty coax connector.

Stress points on the cable near an antenna rotor or a tight bend can cause the conductor to break, especially with solid wire. Sloppy soldering, or corrosion, on connectors can cause poor connections and problems with your antenna system.

If the cable is already installed, make sure to disconnect it from your radio and antenna—below any matching devices. Things like baluns, ununs, and chokes can cause false readings. For example, a 4:1 balun can read as a DC short on a DVM but operate properly at radio frequencies.

It’s a pain to check a 100-foot coax run that’s already in place—the meter test leads aren’t long enough. Instead, check the cable for an existing short by touching one probe to the center pin and one to the outside of the PL-259 connector at one of the ends. If there’s no beep indicating a short, make it a single conductor by tying together one end, connecting the center pin and outside of connector. The alligator clip jumper will work, but I prefer using a panel mount SO-239 with the center grounded to the pin.

Touch both leads at the remaining end with the DVM leads. If you hear the beep, both shield and center conductor are okay. If not, check your connectors for issues or consider replacing the entire run.

Some prefer to use a similar method with the resistance scale and a 50-ohm dummy load, which substitutes for your antenna. No dummy load? You can use a 47-ohm resistor, which is close enough. When you touch the leads, the 0L reading should change to something in the ballpark of 50 ohms if the coax is okay.

In the next section, you’ll see how to check the cable’s integrity. Sections of the coax you replaced could test okay and possibly be recycled to make jumpers or short runs.

Antenna Analyzer

Materials Needed: Antenna analyzer, coax connector or alligator clip jumper to short the end of cable, velocity factor (VF) numbers for cable(s) you’re testing. Velocity factor can be found at the dealer or manufacturer website.

Most hams use antenna analyzers while building and tuning antennas, but it has other features that will help you measure coax length without a tape measure, calculate loss in dB, and discover its general condition. The examples that follow are based on one popular model, the RigExpert AA-55Zoom, measuring DX Engineering RG-8X 50-ohm Coaxial Cable (DXE-8X). Consult your specific analyzer’s instructions for operation. 

Coax Length

Got some coax but no tape measure? Let your antenna analyzer do the work. On the AA-55, select TOOLS from the menu, then LENGTH & VF. Enter the velocity factor and press OK. Length will appear on the screen in the format you’ve selected (feet or meters).

You can also find velocity factor by entering a known length. The photo below shows the length of a patch cable I randomly selected, calculated by the AA-55.

Loss

The greater the length of coax cable you use, the more signal loss you will have. This is due to a number of factors. Losses within the coax cable itself come from the resistance of the conductors. Dielectric loss represents another of the major losses in most coax cables—the dielectric is the insulation around the center conductor. The loss increases with frequency.

Radiated loss of a coax cable is normally much less than the resistive and dielectric losses. But some very cheap coax cables may have a very poor outer braid, and in these cases will contribute to additional losses.

To find how much attenuation there is in a length of cable, go to the TOOLS MENU and choose CABLE LOSS. You’ll take two measurements, the first with the cable end open and the second with the end shorted. The AA-55 will collect the data and show a graph (below) of the losses in dB. You can change the frequency by moving the left/right arrows.

The loss graph shows 1.46 dB attenuation for the 150-foot test cable at 7.150 MHz, which has seen plenty of action at Field Days and Ohio State Parks on the Air (OSPOTA) activations.

Cable Impedance vs. Frequency

To find the impedance in a length of cable, go to the TOOLS MENU and choose CABLE IMPEDANCE. You’ll take two measurements, the first with the cable end open and the second with the end shorted. The AA-55 will collect the data from 100KHz to the maximum frequency on your analyzer and show a graph (below) of the impedance at any given frequency. You can change the frequency by moving the left/right arrows. You’ll notice in this case, it’s very close to the 50-ohm specs.

This can help you identify unmarked coax as well as check compliance with the coax specs provided by the manufacturer. It’s also a way to monitor coax condition from season to season. As the sun bakes our coax installed outdoors, impedance and losses will change over time due to exposure.

The Inside Story

It’s not practical to peel back the jacket and shield to examine a length of coax—it would render the cable useless. But tools like the DVM and antenna analyzer will let you check and assess the viability of your coaxial cable electronically to help you make decisions about repairing or replacing.

The post How to Test Coaxial Cable appeared first on OnAllBands.